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Painting Pressure Treated Lattice

BillW | Posted in Construction Techniques on February 26, 2004 03:02am

Hi All – I’m adding a decorative skirt around a recently re-built porch on a 1900 Victorian.  We’re leaning towards a ‘square’ (as opposed to diagonal) grid, using the 4×8 sheets, heavy duty thickness (these will be ripped in half as the deck is about 2 feet off the ground).  We want it to be white (I’ve considered synthetic material but haven’t found any that looks right).

So my question:  using PT lattice, what’s the best way to get a durable white coating?  Is it as simple as priming and painting, or are there pitfalls associated with PT that I should worry about?  Any particular primer / paint recommendations?  Is it likely that the PT lattice will be as green/wet as PT framing material often is?  Is there any compelling reason to opt for the cedar lattice, costing twice as much?

I intend to paint it all before it goes up, all surfaces, with a brush (we’re talking about 5 4×8 sheets).  I’ve never used a paint spray outfit – is it worth the investment and learning curve?  I imagine it will use 2 or 3 times as much paint, make a hell of a mess in my garage, and I’ll still have a lot of brush work to clean up drips etc.  Thoughts?

Thanks in advance for your excellent advice … Bill.

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Replies

  1. Mooney | Feb 26, 2004 03:15pm | #1

    You sound dangerous .

    I wait a year or a full summer season before I paint pressure treated lumber of any description because its 50 percent water by volume. Naturally it will shrink and loose half its  weight .

    Tim Mooney

  2. User avater
    NickNukeEm | Feb 26, 2004 03:55pm | #2

    Let the lattice dry out, since the lattice work is thin, I would think 6 months should do.  Spread drop cloths on the ground, cause you;re gonna waste some paint.  Lay lattice on drop cloth.  Prime, two coats, using Kilz oil based paint.  Paint to hearts content.

    This is a messy job, so don't wear anything you want to keep.  Wear latex (or appropriate) gloves, and transfer your primer/paint to a paint bucket first instead of using a can.  I use a cheaper brush, because it is a throwaway when the job is done.

    In stallation should include horizontal supports for the top and bottom edges, as well as all vertical seams.

    Have fun.  Been there, swear I won't be going back anytime soon.

    I never met a tool I didn't like!
    1. BillW | Feb 26, 2004 04:02pm | #3

      OK - It's unanimous (so far) - wish I had bought the lattice in October when I started this .... sigh ....

      Tempted to install now (so I can finish the project) ... if I do that and come back in 6 months to paint, I won't be able to access the back, ie, paint only the visible surface .... is that asking for trouble?  Moisture penetration from the back causing the paint to lift off?

      If I pay the premium for the cedar, can I paint right away?

      Thanks guys ... Bill (Dangerous Bill)

      1. User avater
        Sphere | Feb 26, 2004 04:26pm | #4

        If you got your lettuce off an old pile in a big box store..it just may be dry "enough" to go forward..this is an educated guess.

        I would at least try it. Do the back only if you wish, and see what gives..me? I do it all at once and cross my fingers.

        Actually..I'd stay far clear of it..I hate the stuff.

        View Image

        Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

        Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

        1. BillW | Feb 26, 2004 04:40pm | #5

          Sphere - I don't much like it either, but it's the look she's after ... going for the square vs diagonal, and the thicker stuff, hopefully will make it a little more distinctive.  And I would spend the money on the Cedar if I thought it would make a difference.

          I had this crazy (dangerous?) idea of resawing the old CVG fir decking and making my own instead of buying the sheets ... I even tried one plank, but the old iron nails left pretty large holes ... I don't mind spending a day resawing, etc, but if the resultant lattice is full of holes, I don't think it makes sense. 

          Thanks, Bill.

          1. User avater
            Sphere | Feb 26, 2004 04:42pm | #6

            Pssst...it's already full of holes  !!!! <G>

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            Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

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          2. BillW | Feb 26, 2004 05:00pm | #7

            lol ... you know what i meant!

          3. User avater
            Mongo | Feb 26, 2004 06:55pm | #8

            Bill,

            In general, PT lattice is green and wet, and as others have already mentioned, it needs to season a bit before it's primed and painted. Even then, it's generally SYP, and long-term, the lattice won't hold a film coating as well as a more stable wood would hold the paint.

            You can generally prime and paint the cedar ritght after purchasing it. It it indeed more stable, and long-term, will hold the paint longer.

            For what it's worth, lattice isn't something you want to scrap, prime, and recoat every 3 or 5 or 9 or 15 years. Ugh.

            The thicker lattice is definitely worth paying for.

      2. User avater
        NickNukeEm | Feb 26, 2004 08:14pm | #9

        Generally speaking, I back prime every piece of exterior wood exposed to the weather.

        That said, I did not prime/paint the back side of the lattice.  I traded a little insecurity for a whole lot of frustration and mess.  I'm willing to gamble.  So far, so good (it's been 2 years.)  BTW, I used a solid stain, not a paint.

        And my money-hungry daughter swore she would never paint again after the chore was done : )

        I've installed lattice for clients, but generally, it's all the vinyl stuff - maintenance free.

        I never met a tool I didn't like!

        1. billyg | Feb 26, 2004 09:33pm | #10

          You may want to consider using white PVC lattice.  I know -- PVC -- I hate PVC fences etc., but the PVC lattice looks pretty good and it beats the heck out of painting (and repainting) it.  I've used it around AC compressors and for small fences and screen areas.  You need to support it well with a PT wood frame and rails, and give it room to expand.  I also drill drain holes in the bottom rails so that water doesn't collect below the lattice.

          Billy

          1. scooleen | Feb 27, 2004 04:51pm | #11

            "Have fun.  Been there, swear I won't be going back anytime soon."

            Now THAT is one of the most true things I've ever read, I HATED painting my lattice.  I bought PT lattice, primed and painted it, and hated every minute of it, simply put it sucked.

            However building the frame for the lattice using my Porter Cable Biscuit Joiner was great.

            I didnt wait 6 months for mine to dry out, so we will see how it does, probably waited a month or so.

          2. BillW | Feb 27, 2004 06:49pm | #12

            I just went over to the lumber yard to look at the actual 'lettuce' (nice one Sphere!), rather than the samples in the showoom ... the good news is that it's all stored indoors, the bad news is that the stuff I wanted is out of stock.  So I guess I'm not starting this weekend after all.  I also looked at the PVC ... will take my wife over to see it and try to talk her into it, but don't expect success ... although she did agree to Azek trim.

            It occured to me that I could get a moisture meter and measure the moisture content rather than speculate ... who knows, maybe they'll even have one at the lumberyard! (Note - this is not HD or Lowes ...)

            Nick - I was going to try to rope my 14 YO daughter into doing this ... she just got her cell phone bill so I have some leverage right now!  However many minutes there are in a month, I think she was on the phone for all of them!  Sigh ....

            Thanks for the feedback everyone ... Bill.

          3. ccal | Feb 27, 2004 07:11pm | #13

            Put the lattice up temporarily. When its dry pull it off, rent a sprayer at the local paint store. Spread out the plastic and spray it with wwhatever the paint store recommends. Done in a day and no brushing.

  3. htra | Feb 27, 2004 07:34pm | #14

    Dangerous Bill,

    Have you considered using prefab fence panels instead of the lettuce? I find it looks better than lettuce and is easier to paint, plus lasts longer due to using actual dimensional lumber, as opposed to twigs.

    The prefab type I'm talking about are usually overlapping 1x4 or 1x6's with a 2x separating them. Still plenty of air flow too. Easy to make your own too.

    Just a thought. I've painted the lattice as well and considered it a waste of my lifespan.

    1. BillW | Mar 05, 2004 01:16am | #15

      Hi all - I still haven't bought the stuff - I did go to 3 fence supply companies - good idea, but I didn't find anything that was compelling.

      New (dangerous) idea:  I would love to buy either PT or cedar lathe and just build the lattice in place.  It would solve two problems:  first, most of the openings are 10 feet or more long by 2 feet high (slightly more in some cases), so 4x8 sheets aren't really ideal, and second, the painting would be simple (roll on the slats before assembly).  Plus, that brad nailer I've been eyeing would be totally justified ....

      I've looked everywhere and can't find a source of supply ... 3/8" (roughly) by 1 1/2" by 12' length, cedar, PT, or any other good exterior grade material.

      So come on team - you folks haven't let me down yet - any ideas where I can buy this?  I even went to a couple sawyers, but it isn't remotely cost effective to pay someone to re-saw ..

      Thanks!  Bill.

      1. User avater
        Sphere | Mar 05, 2004 01:41am | #16

        jus ripem yer self on the table saw...wear a mask.

        View Image

        Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

        Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

        1. BillW | Mar 05, 2004 02:33am | #17

          yeah ... i even have a brother with a bandsaw ... just looking for the lazy way out ...I can't believe no one sells this stuff ... am I the only one who finds the 4x8 form factor to be limiting?

          1. User avater
            Sphere | Mar 05, 2004 02:42am | #18

            2x10 area ya said?..go with a center seam and 2 @ 2x5?..thats how..or be like me..stay far , far away from the stuff <G>...oh, don't brad it to gether...staples my friend. brads will likely pull out..galv. staples like the factory uses. AND clinch them like the factory does...IOW..staple it up ona big steel table..<G>..

            Can I talk ya into some nice..something else?

            View Image

            Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

            Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

  4. BowBear | Mar 05, 2004 03:10am | #19

    This might be late, but. I build a portable fence out of hurdles made with 4x4 posts and 2x4 frame with latice inserts at 2x8. I got the latice from a big box store where it was kept outside. Brought it home and primed it then painted it with an oil based paint. I used a small roller then a small brush. It took a while to get all the edges of the lattice. Two years later it was still fine. No cracks or chips, just scuff marks where my then three year old had climbed on it. This was Fredericton.An ex-boat builder treading water!



    Edited 3/4/2004 7:26:52 PM ET by Bob

    1. ANDYSZ2 | Mar 05, 2004 03:22am | #20

      I have seen pre painted PT lattice at home depot before so you might check into that.

      If you are going to to do it yourself I would recommend a small roller and lay it out on some rosin paper { easy to dispose afterwards}.

      If you make it your self I would rip the long pieces out 1x6 cedar 12' and rip the short stock out of cedar fence boards to hold down your cost.

      ANDYSZ2I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.

      Remodeler/Punchout

      1. User avater
        Sphere | Mar 05, 2004 03:42am | #21

        kinda tuff to rip a 3/8 x 1 1/2 outta a 1x6 no?..'less ya resaw 1 1/2 x 3/4...???

        View Image

        Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

        Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

        1. ANDYSZ2 | Mar 05, 2004 05:05pm | #23

          No , I was thinking it would be heavy duty lattice if it were 3/4" thick stock.

          ANDYSZ2

          I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.

          Remodeler/Punchout

  5. dIrishInMe | Mar 05, 2004 06:50am | #22

    The PT lattice we get around here is pretty darn dry when you get it.  Nothing like those soggy 2x10s that I've nearly blown out my back on.   I really like the look of the "square" lattice on traditionally styled homes.  Around here it's $65 a sheet for ~ 3/4" thick vs about $18 for the diagonal.   I'd recommend a solid stain - then you won't have to worry about pealing.  Apply finish before installing by spraying it on with a deck sprayer.  This will waste paint but save lots of time and frustration.  If you must paint use a good oil based primer first.   Before I install lattice, I usually restaple it at least around the perimeter using 5/8" long narrow crown staples.   
     

    Matt
  6. stanleyj2 | Mar 06, 2004 06:31pm | #24

    Bill:

    I have sucessfully painted large quantities of PT lumber.  I normally do not purchase my PT lumber from the big box stores, their quality is poor and the lumber is dripping wet.  Pressure treated lumber that is kiln dried after treatment is available where I live for some dimensions.  I have found the PT lattice at Home Depot and Lowes to be fairly dry because air circulates thru the openings.  When the lumber is not totally dry, I stack the materials on spacers outdoors for about two weeks.  I then prime the lattice with an oil based exterior primer such as Benjamin Moore's primer and then top coat with a premium latex house paint.  I do not have any peeling after several years of use.

    Stan

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