I just installed a new front door and need to replace the brickmold it came with some new PVC brickmold. The original opening (due to the use of a storm door) is bigger than the new front door. I plan on building out the jamb and casing and installing the new brickmold.
How do you paint the PVC trim? Oil primer (Zinser?) with a latex topcoat (Sherwin Williams Superpaint)? Any special prep required before priming?
Replies
Look here:
http://www.clingermanbuilders.com/files/AZEK_Paint_Tech_Bulletin.pdf
I use SW, just because it's easy for me to get.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
No prime, fill holes with latex putty or Bondo, two coats of 100% acrylic latex paint.
You don't prime PVC? Why not? I'm not trying to be combative or "debative" but that is counter to every other paint prep process I've read.
Does the primer not stick to the PVC? Even latex primer shouldn't be used?
True, you don't want to prime. Acrylic latex paint is the perfect paint for pvc.
I would suggest however, that you clean it real well to remove any processing oils that may be present, and scuff sand with 120 grit or medium sanding sponge, so the paint has something to bite into. --------------------------------------------------------
Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.netSee some of my work at AWorkOfWood.com
SW Duration is excellent paint, and no, there really is no need to prime PVC (but it won't hurt anything if you do). If, like sometimes happens to me, you end up needing to fix large areas with Bondo, it would be a good idea to prime, but otherwise just go with Duration or another 100% acrylic latex exterior paint.
There is no need to "seal" the substrate like there is with wood; the PVC is non-porous, with just enough tooth (if scuffed and cleaned, like another poster said) to grab really well. Essentially PVC is like solid primer.
Thanks. I never realized that about PVC.
My painter recommended going to Sherwin Williams and getting their Durations line of paint. It takes 30 days to completely cure. After that it's very durable.