While prepping a barn sided with T-111, I find that the previous paint, down to the bare wood, strips off in many places, while the adjacent wood trip holds its paint much betterl. My conclusion is that T-111 does not, by nature, hold paint well. The previous coatings consist of latex primer and latex topcoats. Should I repaint with the same type of paints or, maybe switch to an oil-based primer?
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I just sold a place with a garage I built in '97. T-111 still holding original paint just fine, but the 1x trim was peeling.
What kind of "T1-11"?
TI-11 was originally a spec for a type of plywood that was both sheathing and finish. It was available in a number of styles, smooth rough, without or without groves of different spacing. And I think different species.
Now T1-11 is used to describe the pattern of groves and the in addition to plywood there is hardboard and fiber cement and maybe other materials.
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
1977 garage is 111 plywood. Painted it then with a commercial Parker paint ($1 gal surplus) and it is still 'good as new', zero peeling.
Some poor type latex paints will peel in a year.
Latex primers are much more sensitive than oil primers to dust, dirt, and sun damage. Sun damage can happen with only a couple of weeks of sun exposure prior to painting. In a case where latex primer failed, I would use an oil primer.
T-111 is tricky to paint correctly. The veneers that comprise it are rotary, so they "open up" when made flat, and are very thirsty. The crossband under the show veneer has end grain facing the grooves, which tend to take on lots of water if not well sealed. That water can then move out the face when sun hits it, and blow off the paint if it is poorly adhered.
Latex products work well if properly applied. Brush and roller are much better than airless spray, although airless works OK if thoroughly backrolled. Prime generously, as the stuff is thirsty. Like someone else said, the primer cannot be left to weather for too long after it dries.
Two topcoats are better than one. With the rough texture you want to fill the weave of those loose fibers so water does not get in there.
Flashing details also need to be considered. Some T-111 is applied without z-flashing at the horizontal joints, which hastens failure. Tiny or nonexistent roof overhangs are also a frequent culprit behind failed siding.
Bill
Prime generously, as the stuff is thirsty.
Got that right.
Rebuilt part of a chimney chase... 3 sheets of 3/4" T-111 with grooves 12" OC, rough finish.
Took 1/2 gallon of primer to do all 6 sides.
Still soaked up a bunch of paint.
At least the part I fixed will look good for years to come....
Our first home in the Pacific northwest had almost no paint. Cheapo spec bldr. I year after moving in you could almost see through it.
I did the entire house over with Olympic Stain. A light parachment color. Two coats all over except for the south side, where I placed a third coat. That was 1981 and I didn't have to repaint until 1999. It was T1-11 on three sides, 2 story(split entry).
The stain was great then, I don't know about the quality now. Maybe some painters can chime in for their favorites for your geographical area. Paint companys are always tweeking their stuff and what is good or excellent one year may not be with the next formulation.
In '99 I repainted with latex and had no trouble, either.
btw: I just looked for your location.....not in your profile. Region has a lot to do with many building related questions so please let us know what area you live in.
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bum
I'm not flippin' you off.........just counting cubits
I live in New Hampshire, which has a lot of cold weather, but the barn facade with the most dire paint condition faces south, so it gets a lot of sunlight. One other factor I forgot to mention, is that I applied the T-111 horizontally, so that the grooves mimic clapboard siding. This left 4-foot long vertical joints, which I caulked, but have to re-caulk regularly. Learn by experience.
Horizontally???? I think we have identified the problem. The grooves want to hold onto rainwater and funnel it into the endgrain of the crossband and any other exposed plies.The best solution to maintaining what you have is to remove all the old caulking, paint the raw T-111 really well, then caulk the grooves solid after the paint dries. Then paint again to protect the caulk. Use a high quality acrylic caulk like Big Stretch or DAP 230, and give it a few days to dry before painting it.Bill
It's been a long time since I worked with T111. The first barn I built I tried rollers and brushes. That didn't last long as I figured by the time I got done the weather would turn cold,I started painting the first week of May. I then went and bought an airless sprayer. That did the job,still took a coat of primer and two coats of finish.If I recall the paint was acrylic latex, not positive though.Took 3 days to spray 3 coats on 45 sheets of 4x 10 T111.It was repainted about 7 or 8 years later buy the owner as the red color started to fade.The side that did not get any sun did not need paint ( large shed roof for tractors) kept sun off this wall.
I can't give you expert advice on the type of paint but the manufacturers can.Check with the T111 company and the paint brand you choose to use.
mike