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Painting Technique – Wood cabinet

Tark | Posted in Construction Techniques on August 2, 2004 07:27am

Hi Everyone,

I have sturdy all-plywood cabinets in a small apartment kitchen I’m working on. I’m not certain what wood species the frame and doors are, but they do have about two layers of paint(latex semi-gloss and lead free), that was not applied well at all.

I plan on taking all the doors, drawers, hinges, and knobs off and starting over. The plan is to put a lasting painted finish on these cabinets.

Not certain where to start. . .whether sanding (which grit) or stripping is best (which products), which primer and paint would produce a lasting smooth finish, etc. I do not have any experience with spraying and prefer to roll and brush if I can get away with it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

The interiors of the cabinets are thankfully not painted, but otherwise raw plywood. I would like to seal them if possible. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Tark

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Replies

  1. Tark | Aug 03, 2004 08:08am | #1

    Any thoughts on how best to tackle this?

    Thanks,

    Tark

    1. ccal | Aug 03, 2004 09:33am | #2

      Depends on how bad the paint on them now is but I would sand them down and repaint. Id probably start around 100 grit anf work up to about 220 then spray them with a latex paint I get from sherwin williams. Cant recall the name right now. You can get good results with a slim jim foam roller too. I use them for interior doors sometimes and have gotten good results. You will have to do some brush work too unless you spray them. I would use my airless sprayer with a fine finish tip for cabinets like you describe, but I do a lot of spraying. It can be done without spraying, it will just take longer and probably not be as smooth. A few years ago I would have used an oil based paint but some of the latex works well once you get used to it.

      1. Tark | Aug 03, 2004 08:52pm | #3

        Thank you Charlesc.

  2. DanH | Aug 03, 2004 09:42pm | #4

    Sand them down smooth and repaint. I'm kind of fond of the small (4-6") foam rollers for this kind of work -- they give a real smooth finish once you get used to them.

  3. RW | Aug 03, 2004 09:49pm | #5

    Sherwin ProClassic all acrylic - looks and acts like oil, but won't get yellow and chalky over time. Good stuff. I'd say you can get reasonable results with a foam cigar roller, but man. What a hassle. If you don't have an airless, rent one. It will be SO worth the $40. Just make sure you get a tip for what you're spraying. Several will work, I've kind of landed my preferences on a 214. You can paint the whole kitchen full of cabs in 30 minutes, take an hour to clean the pump, and be done. No matter what you do, the key is the prep. Good and clean, I'd sand anything loose or any bumps where you have runs from the previous. Washing with TSP just to get a good etch isn't a bad idea either.

    "If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain

    1. DanH | Aug 03, 2004 09:58pm | #6

      If you don't wash, be sure to use a tack rag.

  4. OneofmanyBobs | Aug 03, 2004 10:07pm | #7

    Scrape lightly where necessary to remove big runs and sags.  Sand with 150 or thereabouts.  Prime with a shellac-based primer.  Dry in an hour.  A slightly greasy surface does not effect it as much as a latex primer.  Same on the inside.  You can now get shellac in spray cans to make life easier.  The shellac works under any type of topcoat.  Topcoats, if I have a sprayer handy I'll shoot pigmented lacquer.  Sand, prime and paint all done the same day.  Some of the new waterborne lacquers are not too bad, but take more drying time and have other issues.  For small jobs, epoxy appliance enamel in the spray cans works real well.  For bigger jobs, a foam roller and a good gloss enamel.  I still prefer oil, but latex is OK.  Allow a good couple days drying time for enamel or epoxy.

    I would not fool with strippers.  Unless you remove the cabinets completely and take them to a place that does it in a tank, its a whole lot of mess.  If the paint underneath is sound and smooth, leave it alone.  Painting is easy.  Its the sanding and cleaning that takes all the work.  The job won't be any better than the quailty of your surface prep.  If necessary, use a little filler, sand and spot prime again until the surface is as good as you want it.

    1. Tark | Aug 03, 2004 10:20pm | #8

      Everyone,

      Thanks for all the comments. I'll stick to sanding and try out those foam rollers (no experience with sprayers).

      Thanks again,

      Tark

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