In about two weeks or less I’m going to rip out two back to back bathrooms in my upstairs. Turn one into a bigger bathroom then the one that was there and one into a laundry room.
Being that my house as most of you know is kinda old I want to do some details to replicate the original, short of an outhouse out back….lol.
Gonna use a drop in tub/shower and wainscott the sides as well as the walls about four feet up. Not using a claw foot tub in this bathroom as I want a shower in it and dont want a circular shower curtain (its my wife, not me).
Anywho….I been reading threads here about wainscotting in bathrooms for an eternity it seems. So far, I like the MDF idea. I’ll get me a knife made for my Williams & Hussey to cut me some Wainscott in MDF I think.
Two questions: One is, my wife has seen in some homes she was showing wainscotting that came in panels and she swears it doesnt look like ” cheap paneling”. Anyone know of such an animal?
Second and most important question is: I want to use milk paint on the WS. I wonder how that will wear in a wet enviorment. I also wonder if I use a matte finish of poly or tongue oil is that defeating the look of milk paint?
Be finished
Namaste
Andy
“Attachment is the strongest block to realization”
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Replies
Andy,
My lumberyard can special order beaded MDF panels. I've seen them wiith a simple "V" groove, as well as with the more traditional wainscotting-looking beaded detail. I don't recall the sizes, but I think I recall the panels are smaller than the 4' by 8' sheet. Maybe 32-36" high by 5' long?
Again, careful with regular MDF in a bath. Exterior may be a better way to go. I sometimes use MDF for the backs of cabinet carcasses, and I sometimes use the tablesaw wiith a dado blade set at 45 degrees to mill a series of grooves in the panel. It adds a little extra detail to the back of a paint-grade cabinet or built-iin closet for very little effort. A router run along a straight-edge could achieve the same effect.
The thin embossed "wainscotting" panels do indeed look weak.
I don't know enough about milk paint to comment on that.
Mongo
Good flash on using exterior grade. Not MDF...something DF (I forget) which is what sign painters use. Yup. Think I may just do that. Router bit and a jig.
Thanks Mongo"Attachment is the strongest block to realization"http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Andy, try asking your supplier for MEDEX. The local carver uses it for his signs.
http://www.advancedbuildings.org/main_t_finishes_formaldehyde.htm
Mongo