Heres’ some pics of the dormers I had to build for our recent job. These show the sequence I use to build the front wall of small dormers.
This thread will also show my technique for building simple box returns while the wall is lying flat.
I’ve got about 30 pics in this sequence, and the Pistons start in 30 minutes. I’ll try to post fast.
Replies
This thread is dedicated to Tim, who loves framing pics! Tim reminds me of myself in my younger years!
Anyways, I start with the framed skeleton. I've framed them both on the tables and will add the gable and trim before I send them up.
blue
On most gables, I like to tie the wall to the gable by lapping a vertical sheet of OSB 4' down on the wall and 4' up on the wall. As you'll see later, this techique adds significant stiffness to the joint at the plateline and start of the upper gable.
I don't actually frame the gable....I basically just mark out the line on the overhanging OSB and then fit the framing to it. I've got the pattern for the rafters lying there for effect. I use math to layout the lines and simply use that pattern as a straightedge to connect the dots. Remember, I hate snapping lines so I mark a lot of them with straightedges rather than pulling out a chalkline.
blue
After filling in the middle void with OSB sheathing, I add housewrap. I let it run about 5' long on the sides to cover the sidewalls of the dormer.
Next comes the gable "frieze" board. I run both ends wild, then lap cut the top, while precisely marking the bottom plumb cuts with my manly framing square.
As indicated, the frieze boards are installed 4 3/8" down from the top of the rafter (which is nonexistent). Since I've accurately cut the sheathing, I simply use the top of the sheathing as my reference point.
blue
The frieze is carefully marked and cut to receive the "shut off" ( I call them bulkheads).
I layout the bottom of the bulhead on the wall and then measure the length that they need to be. In this case, I'll need four pieces that are 12 7/8" to the long point. You can see my pile of them in the background.
Actually, I'm making a bit of a mistake here, but one that is easily solved. The mistake is that I should run the front corner board first, but when I was framing this wall, I forgot that it needed corner boards. I'll be framing this exact house again next week and I'll add them first and show you why it's faster.
blue
These pics show the bulkhead and the soffit being installed.
blue
Okay, this is the last post cause the Pistons are starting in two minutes.
These pics show the finished gable soffit. It is a 1x8 rs spruce overhang nailed onto a 1x6 rs spruce frieze. It's acutally quite stable at this juncture and I don't typically add any blocking. I will add a sub fascia but I don't have time to show it now.
blue
Okay, back to work.
The soffit is done; now comes the rake assembly.
First I run the sub-rakes wild on both ends. I then whack the top cuts by eye and carefully mark out the 16" over hang with my manly square.
I add a substantial backer block for the wedge nailer. This also stabilizes the bulkhead. I don't put many fasteners in it: just enough to keep it there till I run the rake board and wedge.
blue
This series shows the rake and wedge installed.
The first pic shows the two walls ready for the rake boards. I premitre the cuts at the eaves and install them running wild at the top. I then lap cut them just like I did the frieze board.
Pic #22 shows the wedge installed. I precut all of them and hold them flush at the bottom of the bulkhead. That little #### on the rake will be snipped off by eye with my Makita adjusting tool.
My manly square does a real nice job of marking them.
blue
After snipping off the excess rake board, it's now time to add the brick mould. It's probably not the right term...it should be called a shingle mould but old habits die hard. I've been calling it a brick mold since the 70's because we actually used to use a real brick molding back then!
I usually fit the top cuts of the brick mold, then whack the bottom off by eye. While I was whacking the bottom of the moulding, I noticed that I didn't have a very good site line. I'm used to standing over my work and this overhang setup was starting to get up near my armpits. I thought of the wormies and how they are always standing behind the work instead of straddling it or standing over it.
No, I'm not switching to a wormie....I'll get a bucket to stand on for the next one!
blue
Okay, the walls are all done; the gables built and trimmed. It's ready to send.
The first pic entitled " the hookup" shows how stiff the gable is despite the minimalist framing. If it was going to bend or break, it would be bending in this picture: the stress is at it's greatest when the crane is snatching it at this angle.
Notice the huge mess that I'll have to clean up....
The nex pic shows it on it's last approach. It was actually quite windy that day and Steve had to call for help to land it.
I took a few more pics of the trim details after I put the corner boards and return soffits on, but I can't post them till tomorrow because my camera got soaked in a downpour. I'm going to let the camera dry out for a day before I power it up and retrieve the pics.
I'll post the final pics of the house on Monday. We finished the exterior today, but since the camera was wet, I din't shoot any final pics.
blue
Did you get rained out on Monday?
Jon Blakemore
Oops, sorry, I forgot that I had mentioned that I'd post the final pics.
One pic shows an overall view. One shows my work station set up on the roof to tie the soffits back to the roof. One shows a closeup of the finished corner.
blue
Earlier in this thread, I mentioned that I had made a mistake and that I'd made my corner board a little more difficult to install. Here's a pic of the notch that was necessary. There is a technique that eliminates this notch, but I forgot about it while I was building the gable.
I'm building this same house now and I'll be doing the dormers again next Tuesday morning. I'll snap a picture of the change and post it.
blue
Heres an interesting few pictures. These pics show the lumber load going back after we were done with the house. It was an impressive load!
I don't know how much was sent back due to our efficiencies, or because of the lumber estimator's errors, but it was a lot! We sent back $3500 worth.
To be fair, all of the green lumber will be replaced because of a change in direction for the joists and top.
blue
Thanks for the lesson.
It is great the way different people do the same thing differently but come up with the same end result.
I do have a question about photo number 15. Would it be better to cut the peak at the same angle as the frieze or is it not necessary?
edit) you answered my question while I was typing this up. Thanks
Dane
I will always be a beginner as I am always learning.
Edited 5/14/2005 9:38 pm ET by DaneB
Tim reminds me of myself in my younger years!
You were a suave ladies man?! Who'd a thunk? :=)
MORE PICs!!
by the way, I posted the finished framing pics of the roof we are on in the photo gallery.
You were a suave ladies man?! Who'd a thunk? :=)
Still am.
blue
The Pistons need to trample them tonight. Glad you reminded me that the game is on.
David, the Pistons are angry at themselves.
This is going to be a good series. As we now know, the Pacers can win when the Pistons let down.
Blue,
I saure wish you were at my house today when we were sheathing the roof.
this reminds me so much of "Boogerin with Blue" I', getting quite nostalgic.
Ron
Thanks for the kudos Ron.
I'm just trying to toss out some helpful ideas. It won't be long and i won't even be able to remember how I used to do all this stuff!
I'm actually kinda sad the the Boogering thread disappeared. It would have made for some good reading for me in about 20 years.
blue
Hey Blue,
Your Tyvek is upside-down, It'll never pass inspection.
; )
mike
Mr Jessee, I'm probably the worst there is for getting the housewrap right side up. I've never once looked at the writing to see if it was up or down. When I pick up that roll, I'm focused on two things: wind direction and impediments that might cause me to start from a different end.
YOu would think that the brilliant marketers would print the housewraps to be readable either way.
blue