Replies

1. 
   Terry_Smiley | Jan 27, 2002 07:35pm | #1

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   jmilich

   I would run the roofing material 8"s up the brick wall. I would then cut a reglet into the brickwork at 9"s to receive a counterflashing. I would make my counterflashing 6"s tall hemmed under on the bottom edge. You may also want to put a crease or two in the 6" face to add strength. The flashing is then bent at an 85º angle into the brick reglet, bending it to 85º holds the vertical 6"s against the wall. The last 5/16" is hemmed up and this hem is opened to lock the flashing in place. Once installed the seam between flashing and brick is caulked with Dow Corning 795 silicone caulk. Here's a simple drawing.

   Also on the top of your parapet, you'll either need a cap flashing or a non water absorbing stone cap. I've seen to many parapet tops leak. Use granite or similiar stone for your cap. Or save money and flash it.

1. 
   Dave_Richeson | Jan 28, 2002 04:12am | #2

   *jmilich,I would also put in a 11/2 inch cant strip at the roof and parapet wall corner. This alows you to run the roofing material up the wall and behind the counter flashing without a sharp bend. Just cut a couple of 2x4 on a 45 degree angle, and use constuction adhesive to stick the cants in place. A sharp bend in the roofing material will cause it to break after it ahas aged, the cant strip allows for a gradual bend and provides a backer for the roofing material. If not used, I can almost bet someone will kick a hole in the roofing material, right dead in the corner. Probably be the guy putting the flashing on.I like a stone cap on parapet walls, particularly if it his a historic building. Metal caps work, but look to commercial on a building that old.Dave

1. 
   Tim_Kline | Jan 28, 2002 07:08am | #3

   *Terry,What kind of file is this '.doc' file ? Cannot seem to open. Anyway, we have been using a two piece counterflash system for situations like this for some time. The upper piece fits in the reglet as described above. The piece then has an interlock joint that allows for the lower piece to securely insert and lock in place. The benefit here is that upon re-roof, the counterflashing doesn't need to suffer the usual bend, crease, and wrinkle. It's a shame to replace copper counters every 10 years along with the re-roof.The stone caps look nice, but unless meticulousy maintained, (almost never) they provide water pathways at every joint. The water enters and causes: a) frozen bricks and popped brick faces b) white staining on brick faces c) leaks in the building. You can attempt to caulk the joints in the stone instead of pointing, but the joints are a horizontal surface and as such weather very hard.

1. 
   Terry_Smiley | Jan 28, 2002 07:19am | #4

   *TimIt's a Microsoft Word Document, try opening it in it's current location. If this doesn't work it's probably my poor choice of drawing programs. I need to get a cad program.DaveYou're right about the cant strip of course, glad you added it. If you want to use stone and you're concerned about it being porous. I've added a flashing under the stone, and installed the stone on dowels drilled through the flashing and sealed with caulk or epoxy.Terry

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   Luka_ | Jan 28, 2002 07:31am | #5

   *The dyslexic part of my brain thought this discussion was going to be about Pinnochio getting arrested by the vice squad.