I design / built a home for a client who purchased 20 acres with a double wide mobile home on the property. The mobile home was 28′ x 76′ and was to be moved after completion of the home. The mobile home was on a 28′ x 76′ slab with adequate support for a future building.
My idea at the design stage was to position the house 12′ away from the slab / pour a link piece of concrete 12′ wide joining their side porch with the slab / join the porch and slab with a future roof and construct a building on the slab.
The house was finshed last March. The client is now ready for a building. They want a Party Pavillion with a Summer Kitchen and Fireplace. They want open trusses. I will desing / build the structure.
My first thought was open trusses @ 4′ O.C. with purlins for a metal roof. They now want a shingled roof. 4′ O.C. is now out according to my experience.
NOTE: By decorative trusses I simply mean ones that will look good when exposed. Trusses that are better looking than a typical structural truss. The 28′ will be clear spanned. The pitch may be as much as 8/12 to match the house.
Design idea at this new composition roof info. The roof will be a gable. Decorative (perhaps rough sawn) truss @ 2′ O.C. with V groove 1 1/2″ x 5 1/2″ decking (expensive). Alternativly, I thought T-111 siding as decking first with the grooves down, 3/4″ decking on top of the T-111 to account for roofing nail penetration. (we have used this idea successfully for backyard structures). So, rough sawn decorative trusses, rough sawn 6 x 6 post evenly spaced across the 76′ roof bearing sides and a rough sawn DBL 2 x 12 roof bearing beam .
Main problem: How can I site build or have built – decorative trusses without the metal gussests found in typical non-exposed trusses? I know about plywood gussets, but am looking for better ideas that the appearance results of plywood gussets.
Any ideas from the BT Super Friends?
Boss, are you out there? Hey, I would have emailed Boss, but have you read his profile? Aside from Boss’s truss experience, I am open to design ideas. I promise to pay twice a much as I paid the last BTers for their usable design ideas.
When I get the design finsihed (after BT input) I may post plans / specs on BT.
Hey quicksilver, do you see how much easier it is to read a long post when furnished with paragraphs?
Replies
I think that typically they used fabricated metal plates and bolts. That is unless they are timber framed with M&T.
http://www.cedarforestproducts.com/
http://www.cedarforestproducts.com/timbertruss.html
http://www.greenleafforestry.com/greenleafroundwood_010.htm
And there are a few connector systems that are used, but don't ask me how!
http://www.portlandbolt.com/products/others/shearplates.html
http://stavehouse.com/stavebolt/application.html
http://stavehouse.com/stavebolt/install.html
http://stavehouse.com/stavebolt/essahomes.html
I appreciate the fact that you posted here instead of emailing me. You'll probably get more ideas that way anyway.
I wouldn't rule out 4' O.C. spacing for trusses. Since you're not in major snow country I think it would work fine.
I wouldn't rule out regular trusses. Ever been in a Burger King with exposed trusses? If you talk to the truss company, they can use high grade lumber and try to have the plant keep the plates straight. Then the lumber could be stained.
If you don't like that look, you could do regular trusses and wrap 'em with cedar or some other lumber.
likewise i'm sure, that was my idea, regular trusses with trim to hide metal.
question is could you add the weight to completely cover the regular trusses with trim? you could make regular trusses look a lot like post and beam with trim if they will take the weight and that method is cost effective. where is the cutoff for weight added to know how much trim is too much?
Trusses can be designed for whatever loads they NEED to be designed for. You just tell 'em what you want when you order the things.
Why do people point to their wrist when asking for the time, but don't point to their crotch when they ask where the bathroom is?
i'm with boss.... i like the look of painted exposed trusses... not sure i wouldn't mask the metal plates while painting so as they'd be "detail" vs painted... perlins on the 4ft oc truss placement might help.... 2x6 cord vs 2x4? i've used t-11 face'n down as well as sheets of beadboard for the "look" but with your span alot of it will be way up there.... and humans as a rule never look up... only detail people will ever notice your work... artist, builders, designers ect... the rest will never notice it...
what are you going to do with the concrete slab? just curious...
I've seen a room like this walled in windowed garage doors which makes it cool for 4 seasons.... that a a huge gas-pac hvac unit... huge stone fireplace /chargrill...hmmm now i want one :)
keep us posted sounds like a fun project
p
Translucence out of the question?
Kalwall made these panels for a poolhouse with 50 psf live loading. I recycled them here. Mike Smith's more familiar with them. Note the 8' panel spans. Panels weigh next to nothing. Fast installation. Pix taken on an overcast day. Ceiling glows.
I love them. But didn't pay original cost- if that's a priority.
PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
Those look awesome - ought to bring the temp right up to about 175* in Texas in the summer :-).
Open pavillion - I'm thinking that the critical design factor is wind uplift...
That's silly. Pavillions don't generally have walls. Transmittance isn't that great, even has small insulation quality. You're apparently confusing it with a greenhouse.
Any pavillion roof must deal with uplift. No unusual problem.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!