I have a rental unit which has a roof nearing the end of its life. Would like to get 2 more years out of it when house will be transferred to my daughter who will rehab it completely and change roof outline when she expands – so a new roof now will only be there for 2 years. Not very cost effective, if it can be avoided.
But, I am starting to see some problems. For one, a leak from deteriorating shingles with a 2 inch hole evident on inspection. I’d like to patch over the area with new 3 Tab Asphalt shingles – it’s close to the ground and it’s a small area – something I think I can safely accomplish. See photo attached. The problem area is that portion below the dormer bump out – follow the right side wall of the dormer down and you’ll see a dark line of worn away shingles. About 3 rows down, there’s a round dark area – that’s the hole. Smaller one starting several layers below, too.
Besides nailing on a new layer of shingles in this area, is there anything customarily done to try to keep water from seeping in under the top row of patched shingles? Tar? Flashing? I don’t think I could bend the old shingles up to slip the new ones underneath without the old ones breaking off in my hands. Should I try to remove old shingles first? The patch would be the 3rd layer of shingles on the house.
By way of history, this portion of the house was built by the original Connecticut Yankee in the late 1920s or early ’30s and added on as circumstances permitted. I’m sure everything inside is undersized and, from what I’ve seen, “shortcuts” seems to have been his middle name. It’s in a beach area, so there’s a lot of moisture laden salt water air around all the time.
Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.
Griff
Replies
That roof's about shot. You could try slipping small pieces of sheet metal under the tabs where the holes are, holding them in place with some tar or caulk. I wouldn't try doing too much fiddling with those shingles that you don't have to.
Hey Mister Sushi, you forgot to cook my fish.
"Am I dead or alive? What's this? Linoleum? I must be in hell." -The Salton Sea
I agree with greencu. That roof is ready for the ultimate patch - a blue tarp. you could'nt walk up there without making things worse. Talk to a roofer.
I have to agree with the other guys. Metal, a bucket of tar or tube of roofing cement, that's about your only hope. You'll never really be able to do a "proper" patch job (i.e. surgically remove the affected shingles and replace) with shingles of that vintage. You'd break the tabs off of all the shingles you touch.
Unlike wine, shingles do not get better with age...
If I can see the curling shingles all the way from here in Vancouver, (Burnaby) B.C.,,.....they need replacing! ;-)"If 'tis to be,'twil be done by me."
She don't look to healthy to the left side of the dormer either, so chances are another problem within the two years you're trying to milk.
Looks like the immediate prob is under the eve runoff of the dormer perhaps compounded by a some funky runoff rivers by the dormer side there. heh heh
2 years calls for a 5 gal pail of wet/dry hocky sitting ready and waiting at the beck and call, complete with trowel and gloves with easily accessable ladder worthy of the coming multiple use.
The easiest, quick, most immediately unobtrusive to your lifestyle fix, is gooking it good around the hole under the place you're going to tuck those several layers of new shingles as you work your way up, leaving no ungooked little openings around the sides of the exposed shingles.
Not alone trusting the gookability holding power of the wet/dry hockycement/shingle composite, a mechanical fastening such as a nail is to be placed to secure the shingles, then covered with appropriate amounts of gooky.
Then next spring check to see if the freeze/thaw cycles have opened any new fissures.
be a yankee
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
I agree that roof is well past its expected life and is in sorry shape. I'm only trying to extend it so my daughter can change the roof lines when she rehabs in two years when she's out of school and living there. If I can't, then I'll have to do the deed and get it replaced. Netter save the structure, as deficient as it is, than allow it to start to rot and jeopardize the whole house.
I don't think I'll be walking on the roof. It's steep enough that I can work off a ladder leaning against it and minimize contact on it. At least, that's all I could do when I last painted the outside shingles on the sides of the house.
So, if I read you all correctly, forget patching with new 3 tabs, but get up there with some kind of patching compound and gop it up liberally and insert aluminum flashing in the really bad areas. I guess I can get the patching compund from a roofing supplier, huh?
OK, I'll give it a try and let you know how I make out. I too recognize that this will be nearly a full time job with this house as the roof is failing all over and holes and leaks will sprout everywhere. We'll see what happens.
Thanks again for all the ideas.
Griff
If Steve Haz can stop by we'll have a unanimous vote. That roof is already at least five years past her glorydays.
Any activity is likely to cause more problems because things are already borberline. I don't know if you can expect another two years aout of her, but it looks like you will be getting some metal slips and caulk. Slide qa piece of metal cut to about 6" x 6" or so under each questionable spot. I'm sure you aren't worried about looks for now, but if you are. you could prepaint the metal to match the roof ( I'd say "curling leave brown" would be about the right colour) so if it shows through, it won't attract as much attention to passers-by.
Just carefully slide each piece up under the tabs without bending them much. Then use a putty knife to lift just enough to sqeez a dab of caulk to keep it from sliding out.
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Thanks Piffin. I appreciate you're stopping by to hand me a suggestion or two. I was a bit unsure of exactly how to fix the sheetmetal under the shingles. Thanks for clarifying that for me.
As soon as this Nor'easter we're having (in Conn.) is over, I'll get on it. Then on to the inevitable painting over water stains on the ceiling inside. Glad I bought the gallon size of Kilz.
Curling leaf brown, huh? Do you think semi-gloss or eggshell would be best? I'll get the mixer warmed up at Benjamin Moore in the meantime.
Griff
The way things look, you'll have anopther week to get ready for this, but hey - when the sun is shining, you don't have a leak anymore, LOLIf you are serious about painting, I bet the rustoleum primer would not be a bad match.
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griff.. if i was trying to get two more years out of it.. i'd go to my roofing supply company and ask them to ship me their discards in a cheap architectural shingle..
then , i'd overlay the roof.. you'd probably have to strip the sidewall shingles on the dormer so you could get good flashing in there..
View Image
that would be the fastest , easiest way to get it watertite for two more years..
with roof jacks.. the steep pitch would not be that bad
what town are you in ?
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Edited 5/25/2005 5:52 pm ET by Mike Smith
I'm on your side here Mike.
if in fact the leak is under that dormer ... and not to the left of it ....
I'd simply get the cheapest shingles I could find ... strip it to at least "level" across from the bottom of the dormer and down ... can't be that big an area there ...
and just shingle that part.
Or ... like U said ... over lay it.
use the magic sheet metal flashing to make for a leak proof transition ...
and bam ... it'll be good for the 5 years it's gonna take instead of the 2 year dream!
but ... I bet that area to the left of the dormer is going to explode soon it it already isn't the source of some leaks ... so maybe overlaying the whole side isn't such a bad idea.
pay me now or pay me later ... kinda thinking ...
Jeff
btw ... that roof looks just about the same as mine at the moment ...
was gonna do a tear off 2 years ago ... then last summer ...
and this summer is almost here, ain't it?
Jeff
Thanks Mike and Piffin for the two replies.
Mike since you're in RI, you probably got a taste of today's weather. So you know what we went through.
Well, I went down around 4:00 to inspect the place and found that several (wrong: actually a good number) of the shingles have blown off in the storm and water is leaking into the living quarters in a number of places. I've already spoken with a fellow that I've used before to roof my own house and one other rental and he's arranged his schedule to start a total rip off and replacement within the next 10 days. In the meantime, he'll be down there with his crew tomm morning to cover the thing with a tarp. Now, if I can just get my sheetrock guy.....
So much for planning on a new roof in two years.
But, thanks much for everyone's help and suggestions. I learned some things as a result.
Griff
"Well, I went down around 4:00 to inspect the place and found that several (wrong: actually a good number) of the shingles have blown off in the storm"
Great. Your insurance guy will give ya just enough money to do a low end layover.
Problem solved!
Jeff
Well, maybe....but, I'm not sure that wind damage isn't excluded on shoreline properties. We're a couple of hundred feet in from water's enge, but it's still classified as shoreline.
Besides, the deductible will probably wipe out most of any claim. I'll have a look at the policy and get some numbers from my roofer first.
Thanks for the thought though. Might work out OK.
Griff
We all agree you need a new roof.
But if you are determined, go the slip metal under the shingles route.
Use roof cement to glue the metal in.
I never use roof cement to cover a bad spot or an exposed nail. The black stuff often fails to stop leaks and breaks down in the sun quickly.
I use this stuff:
http://www.sashcosealants.com/home_improvement/products/throughtheroof.shtml
I had to get my local Ace Hardware store to carry it for me and it is $32.00 a gallon. I've been using it for a year now and I have had very good luck with it.
Rich Beckman
Another day, another tool.
Geoseal has some of the same kind of stuff, even in paintable gallons.The problewm though is that these shingles in the photo are so baaaadd that I doubt there is any integrity for a compound to stick too. The action of trying may cause disintegration.Youse guys wanna talk cheap overlay, go roll roofing.
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I've been using the Geosel brushable (2310 & 2315) for about 10 years with good luck, but as you said, you gotta have some flesh left to put the bandaid on.Hey Mister Sushi, you forgot to cook my fish.
"Am I dead or alive? What's this? Linoleum? I must be in hell." -The Salton Sea
Piffen,The Through The Roof comes in paintable gallons. That is the only way I have bought it.I have used it (once) on shingles that were in much worse condition than the roof pictured in this thread. It was for a non-profit agency in desperate straits. I had to gently brush it on what was left of the shingles and it did stop the leak.But I am always interested in alternatives...Is it Geoseal or Geosel...I'm not finding it with Google.Thanks.Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.
Maybe Geocel - yeah, think that's it...Sashcho makes good stuff too, but I haven't seen it here since I left CO
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
That looks very interesting! I see the 2315 can be applied to EPDM. The Sashco product cannot be used for rubber.Thanks to both you and greencu.Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.