Replies

1. 
   Stephen_ | Mar 07, 1999 02:56am | #8

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   Using durabond will work fine and will give a harder coat than the original plaster. Spreading a half inch is exactly what used to be done with the brown coat. (Well, not quite 1/2 inch) If the old lath isnt there to accomodate the durabond, just install some kind of backer board that is solid enough to secure the Durabond.

2. 
   Guest_ | Mar 07, 1999 02:57am | #9

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   The walls of our old house are horse hair plaster over wood lath. The plaster consists of a thick gray coat with a thin finish layer of white plaster. Some of the walls have good size holes in the plaster, and I would like to patch them using similar techniques to the original construction. The existing lath is in good condition. Are there any products on the market that I can use to do this? I would really like to know the original recipe. I've been told to just use Durabond, but spreading on a half inch of the stuff just doesn't seem to be the correct way to do it. Some of my holes are pretty vast. Any help is appreciated.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 01, 1999 07:11am | #1

   *Now, Fred, I've heard you rhapsodize about the sensual qualities of RCD #6 and other mastics -- you have no aversion to "wet stuff."Ed, do the larger holes still have lath? If not, you will need to install something to support the plaster, such as expanded metal lath, and attach it firmly to the existing lath. The gray/brown thick coat is the scratch/brown coatings; you can make these with a strong plaster such as USG's Red Top wood fiber or -- it's easier to find but more likely to fail -- Structolite. After you build up the structural backing, the thin white finish coat is a different plaster with very fine aggregate, such as "Champion Quality" or others. Visit http://www.usg.com for some more info.If you get into this and have questions, please fire away. I'm about to complete my first plastering effort and learned a lot very quickly. It is basically another form of masonry.If your house has historic value or otherwise has unique or complex plaster, you ought to hire a professional to do the work.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 03, 1999 12:41am | #2

   *SpedHed,I would have a look at Brian Ewing's (aka Brewski) web site. He's a very good plaster guy and he has discusion boards at his site that revolve heavily around plaster techniques.http://www.ornamentalplaster.com/index.htmlSteve

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 03, 1999 05:24am | #3

   *With caveats. Good luck! It really is a lot of fun.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 04, 1999 07:03am | #4

   *Thanks for the Caveat. Very entertaining.Sped

2. 
   Guest_ | Mar 04, 1999 08:54am | #5

   *Ah, good.

3. 
   Brewskie | Mar 04, 1999 10:34am | #6

   *Where's the caveats?The only complaint ever made with the guide was about it's size. Do you go to a library or book store to purchase the thickest books? Or would you be looking for the books with the best content? Or do you feel that you can't have good content without a huge size? I don't get it.....You didn't even offer a complaint that the guide didn't deliver what was promised.....Unlike a book bought at the library or book store these plaster guides will grow over time. I plan to add movie files to show the harder to understand portions and other enhancements, as some techniques are exceedingly difficult to verbally explain. Can these "store bought" guides offer this flexibility?It's funny....you made these unfair remarks then run around acting like they're based on fact. When in actually they weren't even thought through.You say that the information in the guide could be found all over the internet.....ok...find a plaster guide that explains the use of a plasterers rod. Find a guide that even alludes to an angle plane. And just how many guides are out there that show the way to plaster over drywall?And you act like you didn't learn a thing!I've had apprentices like you ..... ungratefull ..... Most are in the food service industry now .....If you wanted your money back all you gotta do is ask.....or is some kind of petty revenge what you're after?You then alude that I had broken some kind of federal law with a falsity that it took four months for you to get your guide! This begs for facts!I recieved your online order on 10/31/98. I recieved the check for the guide in the middle on the twelfth month and you got your guide in the first part of the first month of 99.....That doesn't add up to 4 months does it? On the order page there is a notice....at the time you ordered the guide you were informed that I was working out of town and it would be a while to respond to orders. Didn't you read it? All in all it took three or four weeks for you to get your guide and your check wasn't cashed until I returned and was ready to email you your download page.If you had a problem with all this why didn't you email me? Why didn't you phone me? This is all way too petty....Brian Ewing

4. 
   Guest_ | Mar 04, 1999 11:59am | #7

   *Mr. Ewing, I never meant any personal insult. I simply felt the the content of the guide was inadequate.Of course you felt the price was right when you set it. I happen to disagree. Your objection seems to amount to: Why didn't I keep my opinion private? Because sharing opinions is what this forum is about. If someone recommends something, someone else should say, hey this didn't work for me. It's just an opinion. Let it go. I don't want to fight, but I do stand by my stated opinion.I am not ungrateful. I am disappointed. As I explained before, I debated whether to do anything at all. I admire your expertise and the ambition of your effort to expand into discussion and videos, but it doesn't correct the inadequacy of the guide. And I don't do vendettas, I do equity.And there are two "s"'s in Douglass.