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Peel and Stick Roofing ???

cargin | Posted in Construction Techniques on April 4, 2008 01:56am

All

I was wondering how many of you have used the peel and stick modified bitumen roofing membranes.

I installed this last fall twice and was very pleased with the result.

http://www.protectowrap.com/products/roofing.php

I posted a thread at that time and another product mentioned was by Mule Hide. Looked like that was a grandular product.

The real proof is in how long it wears.

Anybody have any experience with this.

Thanks for your input.

Rich

 

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Replies

  1. Waters | Apr 04, 2008 03:17am | #1

    By your title am I to assume this is the roofing material?  Or just a flashing membrane that can be exposed?

    Are you talking about protecto seal 45?  They say it's only good for 10 years exposure?

     

    Whassup? 

    I'd like to know more about flat roof systems that a small outfit can do.  Anybody?

    "Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing..."

     

    1. cargin | Apr 04, 2008 05:13am | #3

      Waters

      Yes I am talking about Protecto seal 45, and I believe the life is 10 years.

      Dura-Last is probably good for 15 -20 years. I have seen EPDM last 8-15 years.

      I have seen the seams of EPDM fail well before the expected life of the roof.

      And I have seen Dura-Last roof with problems at 14 years old.

      I used this Protecto seal 45 in a pinch and it was easy to install, and it sealed very well even on a cool October day.

      I just wanted to know if anyone has any long term experience with them.

      Below is a picture of Protecto Wrap 45

       

      View Image

      And this is the Mulehide Product info below

      View Image

      Mule-Hide Self-Adhering Mod Bit –  A new generation “Fast Roof!”

      Self-Adhering Mod Bit Product SpecificationsSubmittalsSubstitution Request

      Leave that kettle in the yard, leave that torch in the shop…View Imageno need to hire a kettle man. 

      For low-slope or steeper slopes when a fast, clean, insurance friendly application is desired. 

      Commercial grade systems you can trust due to new generation adhesive and AdesoTM “dual compound” technology.  Years of field-proven performance.

      10 times greater adhesion – adheres directly to 8 different substrates. 

      Instant bonding roll-to-roll with enhanced sealability due to SEALLapTM selvage treatment. 

      More reliable seams, fast end laps due to granule-free FASTLap¯. 

      Elevator portability for high-rise building jobs. 

      Rich

       

      Edited 4/3/2008 10:15 pm ET by cargin

      Edited 4/3/2008 10:19 pm ET by cargin

      1. Waters | Apr 04, 2008 05:25am | #4

        Thx!"Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing..."

         

      2. Piffin | Apr 04, 2008 03:20pm | #5

        I think these are good products, no doubt, but anybody who can install EPDM so as to make the seam fail in short time will make the peel'n'stick products fail even faster, I garandamntee U that much 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

        1. cargin | Apr 04, 2008 03:41pm | #6

          Piffin

          You're right.

          this demands a very clean surface.

          we did a 20 x 25 area and used a linoleum roller to roll it down. and then an 1.5" hand roller for details.

          Rich

          1. Piffin | Apr 04, 2008 05:33pm | #7

            and in my climate, a heat gun with the hand roller. Like I said, good stuff - if you have clear drainage and somebody who has a clue installing it. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          2. cargin | Apr 04, 2008 08:48pm | #8

            Piffin

            This was late October that we did the install. Maybe 45-50 degree at 1 o'clock (for about 15 minutes) so I though we would need a heat gun.

            No way, it was truly peel and stick.

            I mentioned cleaning the roof deck, because every minor granaule the roof would telegraph right thru.

            You would have a major problem with pentrations if the roof wasn't clean.

            Rich

          3. Piffin | Apr 04, 2008 09:07pm | #9

            last one I did was last fall and it warmed up to 42 for ten minutes. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          4. cargin | Apr 05, 2008 02:30am | #10

            Piffin

            I just wanted to know if anyone has any long term experience with them.

            How do these products hold up? I have only used the Protecto 45.

            We put gutter apron on the edge and they wrapped the protecto right over the edge and down. Great seal. The eave is usually a weak spot on a flat roof.

            Rich

          5. Piffin | Apr 05, 2008 05:05am | #11

            They are essentially a re-inforced Modified bitumen made sticky.The two drawbacks to early modified were skills to seal and apply it right,esp at seams, and that it needed refresher coating to protect it from UV rays so it wouldn't dry out too soon and develope cracks.With the addition of the granules, I think the latter is dealt with. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          6. cargin | Apr 05, 2008 05:17am | #13

            Piffin

            The protecto 45 is covered with a white polyethlene film.

            No granules. It's like 3'wide seam or repair tape.

            Rich

    2. ponytl | Apr 05, 2008 05:15am | #12

      I'd like to know more about flat roof systems that a small outfit can do.

      i think torch down is pretty simple, proven and requires less than $100 worth of tools... with a single hand torch i can  put down a sq in less than 30 min... with my dragon wagon i can do a sq in 10min or less... (flat clear roof) pretty hard to screw up once you get the feel for how much heat to use  but the window seems to be pretty wide...

      p

      1. Piffin | Apr 05, 2008 05:39am | #14

        I think for your commercial stuff, the torch down is probably the better deal 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

        1. ponytl | Apr 05, 2008 04:17pm | #15

          would torch down not be an option for  a small porch roof that was to have a deck over it?... i've used torch down where I laid wood sleepers on extra strips of torchdown and never had an issue... i'm looking at doing a roof deck now where i have torch down already but  I'm looking at useing 2 x 2 ft pavers i've cast 1.5" thick ontop... might use some type ditra dimple product for drainage under them or nothing at all.. when i cast them i finished the bottom so they have nothing to dig into the roof...  my other thought is to  take the time to apply torch down to the bottom of each paver before i place them...

          just think'n

          p

          1. Piffin | Apr 06, 2008 12:35am | #17

            Technically it works.But I have an aversion to using the torch on a residence where there is ANY chance of flame near combustibles. BTDT and got my hands slapped. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          2. cargin | Apr 06, 2008 04:09pm | #19

            ponytl

            I saw in FHB or JLC an article were they built a deck over a roof. They used a regular boot flashing with 1.5" threaded galv. pipe.

            The base was threaded into a plate and attached to the roof. boot over top and the the deck was built on the galv pipe posts.

            Just throwing that out.

            Rich

          3. ponytl | Apr 06, 2008 05:29pm | #20

            I did that exact same thing on my large common area roof deck where i wanted to service the roof and needed vents in the roof under the deck  i brought 4" steel pipe thru the roof thru a 5" flashed pipe then a rubber boot between the 4" and 5" to seal it... i made this deck 42" above the roof surface all steel truss framework... i wanted that little bit of room for things to move (between pipe sizes)  but the penthouse that leads out to this deck i build the roof for live loads.. it's not huge... 10 x 16 but it is 10 higher than the deck... and looking out over the mississippi river it just adds something (value) to the common area deck...  a great look-out  have a drink or coffee area... with only about 2" of drop in that 16ft  i'm either going to just build a deck on sleepers or lay my pavers ontop... either would be easy to lift off for repairs... long term i think the pavers would be the better choice

            p

          4. cargin | Apr 06, 2008 05:37pm | #21

            ponytl

            Just floating ideas.

            I see this one has already floated down the Mississippi pas you.

            Rich

      2. Waters | Apr 05, 2008 05:30pm | #16

        Can u float me some brand names or products to ask for?  Other info on how to do it?"Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing..."

         

        1. catfish | Apr 06, 2008 03:37pm | #18

          Cold process modified.  Glue down, use squeegee or paint roller to spread glue.  Spread roofing material, stick down.  Be sure to use primer for metal.  Tamko makes this as do a lot of other manufacturers.

          Quit using torches after day care next to a friends house burned from torching.  Roofer had been gone for several hours when attic ignited.

          1. Waters | Apr 06, 2008 06:25pm | #22

            Thanks.

            I have a couple shed dormers that will req this.

            Pat"Research is what I'm doing when I don't know what I'm doing..."

             

  2. seeyou | Apr 04, 2008 04:54am | #2

    I've been to school and am certified on the Mulehide products. I haven't found a use for them yet. For most instances, I prefer EPDM or TPO and find them easier to use. Most of the membrane roofs I do are spec'd and I've seen cold process modified spec'd once in the last ten years and the owner decided to upgrade to flat seam copper.

    http://grantlogan.net/

     

    But you all knew that.  I detailed it extensively in my blog.

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