I’m planning to repaint my house and want to fix the peeling paint on the fascia boards behind the gutters. The gutter companies have basically told me the folllowing:
1. existing gutters are hung too low
2. the roofer didn’t overhang the shingles enough beyond the drip edge
Both problems are allowing water to drip between the back of the gutter and fascia board. One of the gutter companies has suggested installing a temporary aluminum overhang so the water drips directly into the gutters. The roof is only 10 years old – he claims the aluminum can be removed when the roof is replaced and installed properly. Is this a reasonable solution? It makes sense to me but I don’t want to create a problem when it comes time to replace the roof and I’m not sure if it will look ridiculous from an aesthetic standpoint. I have also been told that even though my gutters are in excellent condition, there is no way to remove the gutters without damaging them so I’ll have to install all new gutters after the fascia boards are fixed.
Thanks for the advice.
Replies
Personally, I don't like to hang shingles out over the drip edge. The slightest bump can bend them over and leave an unsightly spot.
How about taking the gutters loose and moving them up under the bottom lip on the drip edge? That would force the water to drop into the giutter, unless they were full to overflowing. (I don't see whay they can't be removed)
Another option might be to cut strips of trim coil and slip them up under the drip edge. Just leave them wide enough that they cover all of the fascia board and hang down into the gutter some. If the trim coil is the same color as the drip edge, it shouldn't be noticeable.
Effective leadership often consists of giving the people not what they want but what they will learn to want. [Walter Lippman]
The fascia boards are peeling behind the gutters so they need to be completely removed to thoroughly scrape, prime and paint the wood. Since the gutters are attached with screws and nails, I was told that they would be damaged during takedown (the nails being the main obstacle to reuse).
Are these aluminum gutters? These can usually be removed without too much difficulty. It is tricky if the are attached with big spikes and furrels because getting the spikes out tends to bang up the gutters. Otherwise, the come off with varying degrees of ease, depending on how they're fastened, especially if screws were used.
This is a very commom problem. (Try searching this forum.) I understand what The Boss is saying about the shingles edges, but sometimes this is the best way to go, especially on low-slope roofs, because if the shingles are flush with the edge of the drip edge, water tends to flow over the shingles and stick to the drip edge and flow down the fascia, rather than falling free into the gutter. I don't think the gutters "being hung too low" has much of anything to do with this.
Until you get a new roof there are at least two approaches: (1) extend the roof edge (sometimes you can stick a second drip edge under the shingles), or (2) put some kind of flashing between the bottom of the drip edge and the top rear edge of the gutter. You could make this out of trim coil as Boss suggested, or use 10' long drip cap such as is used for T1-11 siding. There may be an aluminum trim (fascia apron) made just for this purpose available from gutter suppliers.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
Yes, they are aluminum gutters attached mostly with spikes and a few screws. Actually, I have a low sloping hip roof so your point in this regard makes sense.
P.S. Go Pats. I live west of Boston.
Are the nails just in the back edge of the gutters, or are they the big spikes that go through both the front rim and back edge? If they're just in back, you can pull the nails, or even pry the the aluminum over the nail heads. The damage to the back of the gutters won't be obvious later. If you're doing this yourself, it might make sense to save the gutter. If it's being done by someone in the business of selling new gutters, the economics (or perception thereof) may differ.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
(Fair-weather Pats fan.)
Seems like even the long gutter spikes could be cut fairly easily with a saws-all from inside the "troft" of the gutter - though I have never personally done it.
Also, I think it is important that the shingles hang over the drip edge 1/2 to 3/4"or whatever the manufacturer recommends. Yes, they can be damaged by ladders, etc, but ya just gotta be careful, and use the right techniques, etc.Matt
I have so many other projects to do myself that I 'm leaving this one to a sub. Their consensus is that economics dictates scrapping the gutters.
Thanks everyone for the helpful advice.
Did a agutter removal and replacement a couple of monthes ago where the gutters were attached at the back with brackets and spiralled 3" nails. Gutter guy said a 150$ to remove 250' of gutter.Told him go for it took 2 man crew 8hrs to remove there was no way they were going to salvage those gutters.
ANDYSZ2I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.
Geez, labor is inexpensive where you live.
I told that salesman it was not going to be easy, but you should of heard these to ruffians cussing that boy by the end of the day.
ANDYSZ2I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.
Yes, you can put the suggested aluminum overhang in there, but I hope that company's intent isn't the same as a similar post I saw recently. They wanted to mount that edge on top of the roofing cause it would be easier. Not a good plan, at all.
Is there currently a metal drip edge?
If so and the gutters aren't mounted with fascia brackets, you might consider installing aluminum fascia cladding. Slip it up behind the drip edge. Then no structual damage occurs if some water runs down the cladding and the visual appearance is clean.
If the gutters are mounted with fascia brackets, you'd be in for removing the gutters to install the facia cladding.....and you'd still need that drip edge to tuck behind to insure that no water enters behind the cladding.
Yes, it's a metal drip edge and mounting the new edge under the roof was suggested.
Arnold,
first things first
1) you really want the shingles to overhang the drip edge 1/2" to 3/4 " for the reasons already listed. In addition overhanging the shingles will let the roofers install STRAIGHT courses---following the drip edge often means a wave in the roof ( bottom edge of the roof often has a significant bow in it)----since you have gutters---either a standoff, a gutter board,or the gutter itself will protect the overhanging edge of a shingle. Ladders bend aluminum drip edge almost as easily as they bend shingles.
2)slipping a piece of trim either under the drip edge or an "L" shape slipped under the shingles and down the fascia and into the gutter ------is done frequently and if done well is pretty much un-noticeable from the ground
3)I will let you in on a dirty little secret about aluminum gutters. The actual gutter doesn't cost that much ( a little over $1/foot)---its the labor to install that's expensive.Trying to remove long pieces of gutter,fastened in a variety of ways----and then re-install later without damage-----will almost likely be more expensive than simply scrapping out the old and installing new.
Aluminum scrap prices are high right now, also.