Clients brother is an archy, and he has developed a sketch of a pergola for the patio. Basic design is simple and I’m glad he did it…takes me out of the aesthetic crosshairs. But he has left the material selection and sizing up to the competent contractor…maybe I can find such a person… Thinkign of 6×6 or 8×8 red cedar colums with, what, 2×8 beams topped with 2×6 “lattice”. Here’s the question…if I go to the appropriate design tables for that wood, what would you use for the loads? Since there’s no roofing and minimal wind load cuz it pretty open construction, can I get by with the lightest table?
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell’em “Certainly, I can!” Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
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What loads?
I like 3x8 joists and 1x2 lattice crosshairs
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Well, we were thinking about solid 3x8 beams and nominal 2x6 cross pieces, stood on edge, space 16".
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Because the construction is so open larger members 8 x 8's or 10 x 10's for columns, 3 or 4 x 12's or 14's over the columns and 2 or 3 x 8's or 10's for the 16" oc look good, 1 x 2 for the lattice. We've also used 4-4 x 4's spaced about 4" apart in a square pattern for columns, especially on Prairie style work, wrapped about a foot from the top and bottom with a 6" steel band 1/8" thick. The heaver members are what creates the great detail look, the owner could afford it look. Only problem, it's expensive. There are material compromises available, however. As far as structurally, there is no serious load consideration for members of any reasonable size, even though it's cedar.
Never serious, but always right.
Edited 4/10/2004 11:31 pm ET by Russ
Thanks. We were thinking 8x8 for the posts. Had not planned on any actual lattice on the top, just the 2x6 or whatever "ceiling joists". Cost is not as much an issue as you might imagine...this project is well funded.
Here's a pic of the patio to be covered. It's right at 1,000 sf and faces dead south, so summer heat will be an issue. A stone bbq pit with high-doller cooker has been built just to the right of the glass block window, and it will be a very unpleasant place to stand without any shade.
The bottom of the gutter is about 7 ft off the patio...the idea is to put the bottom of the beams at 12 ft, which would allow a nice overhang over the drip line.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Intersting the archy left the sizing open.
I would have expected him to be more concerned with proper proportions.
Any pics of the design available?Jake Gulick
[email protected]
CarriageHouse Design
Black Rock, CT
Ed,
You have heavy bold shingle lines, heavy bold rock faces in the siding, and a block shaped patio. Putting tinny little joists on that will look out of place and cheap, if you don't mind me saying so. You want bulk in the beams. Go large. 4x10 or 4x12 for beams and 3x8 for joists, then add the lattice above. The whole point of a pergola is to give shade and a framework for vegetative growth. It will make the whole interior run cooler with minimal impact on the light coming in.
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