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Pergola plans

| Posted in Construction Techniques on November 11, 2003 07:21am

Client wants a pergola over the back patio.  Maybe it’s called something else, but she wants what looks like a series of timber framed roof trusses to provide shade.  Where can I find a couple of design ideas or details?  Span isn’t very far, maybe 20 ft, won’t be any live loads (other than weather, no snow), no decking or soffit.  In my mind I’m imagining it will be built of 4×6 cedar lumber.

 

Do it right, or do it twice.

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  1. User avater
    ProDek | Nov 11, 2003 09:19am | #1

    Here is one I built some time ago using 3x8,3x6,and 3x3 resawn lumber. I wrapped the posts with 2x6 and 3/4x3/4

    "Rather be a hammer than a nail"

    Bob

    1. xMikeSmith | Nov 11, 2003 02:06pm | #2

      here's a skinny one... PT 2x12 top on fiberglass columns... with pt 2x4 birdies

      20 ' span is a loooonng  spanMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

      1. SunnySlopes | Nov 11, 2003 02:25pm | #3

        Mike,

           Very attractive!   I never painted PT, is there anything special considerations to take when painting it?"One measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions"

      2. User avater
        CloudHidden | Nov 11, 2003 06:05pm | #6

        Interesting use of a ladder and scaffold as a plant trellis.

      3. User avater
        ProDek | Nov 11, 2003 07:04pm | #7

        I like that one Mike. Are there posts running through the deck to ground inside of those columns? Very nice design.

        We call that a perimeter arbor with a privacy screen.........

        Alwways good to see your  work............"Rather be a hammer than a nail"

        Bob

        1. xMikeSmith | Nov 12, 2003 01:54am | #10

          Bob.. the  pt 4x4's  are framed to the deck and run thru , about 3' bury, sitting on footings.. Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

          1. User avater
            ProDek | Nov 12, 2003 04:39am | #14

            Cool Mike but how do you keep the round column from rattling around the 4x4 post?

            I mean how do you make the two pieces act like one,  in strength?

            Obviously I haven't tried this method and am relying on your expertise free wisdom to make me smarter."Rather be a hammer than a nail"

            Bob

          2. xMikeSmith | Nov 12, 2003 06:11am | #18

            we cut slip wedges for the bottom & wedges for the top... the 4x4 extends thru and gets thru-bolted..

             and the 2x12 ties all 4 together...Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

          3. User avater
            ProDek | Nov 12, 2003 09:06am | #21

            Great job Mike, Thanks for sharing....."Rather be a hammer than a nail"

            Bob

    2. User avater
      BillHartmann | Nov 11, 2003 09:44pm | #9

      I really like the looks of the post with the revels. But where does the 3/4 material come in. How are they put together?

      1. User avater
        ProDek | Nov 12, 2003 04:32am | #13

        Hi Bill, haven't seen you around much, must be busy.

        I use my pinner and put the 3/4x3/4 clear cedar between the 2x6 wrap just for a little more detail."Rather be a hammer than a nail"

        Bob

  2. calvin | Nov 11, 2003 03:26pm | #4

    Here's one I looked at for repair.  Might give you a couple ideas on size, shape or perhaps just to see potential shading possibilities.

    Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    Quittin' Time

    1. User avater
      ProDek | Nov 11, 2003 07:16pm | #8

      I like the way they mirrored the Patio with that one Calvin. Curves always add more interest .

      I wonder how you keep a structure like that from blowing over in a wind storm Though. Even with posts in the ground that is ALOT of mass to take the sway out of.

      I had a customer that wanted a six column arbor like that but wanted to be able to hang a Hammock from it.

      Short of imbedding steel posts in the ground I don't know what would support, or keep the columns from tipping over.

      Anyone that has worked with columns I would be interested in hearing how you make them strong from side to side."Rather be a hammer than a nail"

      Bob

      1. Piffin | Nov 12, 2003 02:57am | #12

        Here's my entry in the Pergola Parade. These coloumns are sitting on Ganite plinths 18"cubed on a brick patio.

        And another over an enry in the same neighborhood from a generation or two ago.

        There are several ways to do this for shear or wind loading. On the ones I built here, I use dadoed lock joints that snap tight together int th eupper frame so there is no wobble in that part of the system, then attaching to the house makes it fully secure.

        For free standing, there are manufacturers who can provide anchor hardware similar to Simpsons 4x and 6x6 post anchors.

        Another method involves allthread and a snatch to snug things down. The entire hollow column becomes a torsion box that way..

        Excellence is its own reward!

        Edited 11/11/2003 6:58:45 PM ET by piffin

        1. User avater
          bobl | Nov 12, 2003 07:38am | #19

          "For free standing, there are manufacturers who can provide anchor hardware similar to Simpsons 4x and 6x6 post anchors."

          wouldn't happen to remember any manufacturers would you?

          I've been googling off and on for a couple months without any luck.

          (my use isn't a pergola, but a pavilon(may noy be the right term), four posts and a roof, free standing, with wood posts.bobl          Volo, non valeo

          1. xMikeSmith | Nov 12, 2003 08:08am | #20

            bobl.... order PT posts treated to .60 retention ( dockbuilders & polebuildings use these ).. then bury your four posts to frost depth &  backfill with compacted gravel...

             the bury and the tying of the four posts together will stabilize your structure... angle sway braces will further help..Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

          2. User avater
            bobl | Nov 12, 2003 04:38pm | #23

            Mike,

            I'm looking at the different alternatives.

            there are termites in the area and as I understand it, PT only penitrates about 2 inches so in a 6x6 the center won't be treated and with checking, there is a possibility of things getting in. but the method u describe sounds real good to me.

            the area is also fill (40+ years ago) and there can be large rocks (2x2x3) buried in the area (have run into them) so I don't know if I can get down 42-48 inches, so using piers may be necessary (i flair the bottems)

            what the building dept will want is another thing, when i built our deck they insisted on 12 inch piers, seemed big to me but i'm no expert.   they might insist on piers and i'd like to be readybobl          Volo, non valeo

          3. xMikeSmith | Nov 12, 2003 05:56pm | #24

            bobl... termites are not a problem with .60 treatment..

            the rest is up to youMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

          4. User avater
            bobl | Nov 12, 2003 06:04pm | #25

            Mike,

            thanks

            good to hear

            always worry about them little buggers.bobl          Volo, non valeo

          5. Piffin | Nov 13, 2003 02:42am | #29

            http://www.fypon.com/download/video/Columns.htm.

            Excellence is its own reward!

      2. ANDYSZ2 | Nov 12, 2003 03:24pm | #22

        I make a footing for the column to sit on with rebar imbedded sticking up about 4 ft and then put column over rebar and fill with mortar.

          ANDYSZ2I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.

  3. ANDYSZ2 | Nov 11, 2003 05:44pm | #5

    If you  have a twenty foot span you will have to either use framing lumber and paint it or find a pressure treated manufacturer to custum treat it.They don't sell anything longer than 16 ft. in treated lumber. If you decide to paint treated lumber you will need to use a solid color stain made especially for treated lumber.Personnally my favorite combination is white fiberglass columns with copper tops with 3" thick timbers of rough cut cedar stained a very dark brown. This makes the pergola look like its floating and gives the best protection to the wood and hides imperfections in the lumber fairly well.

    ANDYSZ2

    I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.

    1. User avater
      coonass | Nov 12, 2003 02:18am | #11

      ANDYSZ2,

      I just built a gate with some 24' 2x12 treated, so longer lengths are available. Hope I never have to work with those monsters again.

      KK

    2. rjgogo | Nov 13, 2003 01:10am | #26

      "They don't sell anything longer than 16 ft. in treated lumber."

       

      Not true here,  I have bought 20 footers for a deck I built. 

    3. CAGIV | Nov 14, 2003 09:53am | #33

      I could have ordered 20' 2x8 PT last summer, that was the longest the local yards could get in.  Shame I needed 24'

  4. dIrishInMe | Nov 12, 2003 04:46am | #15

    There used to be a guy who hung around here who specialized in these.  He had a web site and everything.  And he sold plans.  I wanna say his name was William... or something like that.  He had a hard luck story about how he cut off his thumb (EEEEEK!!!) and now he does mostly design work.  Anyone remember him?

    Matt

    PS: you guys got some top knotch work to show off.  And it don't look like Piffin is slummin either.  Mike - I had wondered how you gave lateral stability to yours - Now I know.  I remember when you posted pics before for something about deck construction. 

    Matt
    1. FastEddie1 | Nov 12, 2003 06:03am | #16

      Nice work by all.  But that's not the style she has in mind.  Maybe it's best described as a couple of gable trusses tied together by purlins.  Think of one of Boss' trusses on steroids.

      Do it right, or do it twice.

    2. Piffin | Nov 12, 2003 06:06am | #17

      I remember the dude. Seems tome his specialty was Japanese gardens, which happed to include pergolas. We hav actually talked about pergolas a couple of times here so it is possible that a search for pergola and/or gardens, Japanese, woiuld turn up something. I think he is in California.

      Excellence is its own reward!

      1. jason_dd | Nov 13, 2003 02:36am | #28

        Are you all thinking of Joe Wood?  (not sure if that his actual name or just a sobriquet).   Mainly deck and trellis work, often Japanese influenced. He is somewhat active on the JLC forums, and regualarly posts photos on Gary Katz's gallery.

        1. Piffin | Nov 13, 2003 05:38am | #31

          Could be, I just remember a couple of posts and a visit to his website once.

          Bobl,

          I was in a hurry when I posted the link before, so that is a brief (actuallly long time to download since it is a video - if you are on dial up, be patient - worth it) description of their system.

          It would probably be inadequate in a gale, but here is what I would do in your situation, contact the tech dept of each manufacturer you are interested in with your design problem. Most of them always have items on the back burner or indevelopement that haven't been displayed in cataliuges or web sites. Field reps can ,make suggestioins too, based on what they have seen done in other custom situations.

          Imagine a stout round metal column base that fits snug inside a column. Weld a pan to the bottom of it and drill holes in it. Now you have a bracket that looks like a heavy duty coffee can that fits tight into the column base. You site it in place, and screw it down. Nope - not with sheet rock screws. Then you slide the column down over it, and screw in to the base to the steel can mount. You would want to have painted to protect against rust. The strenghth depends on the screws and the sheaar strength of the column material at the connection point. Some composite materials are brittle. Fypon has an interior steel core in the structural columns.

          You could conceivably add to this mechanical mounting with a chemical bond by using some glue or epoxy if you plan for drainage channels as well.

          I prefer the wall bolt tie downs that run the length of the core to make a torsion box, myself.

          BTW, Elcid, if you are still listening, there is a pitched frme pergola like you describe shown in that video clip. I don't know if it is in the rest of the still photos on the site or not, but when I saw it, I thought it fit your description of what she wanted to a T. The Fypon company may be able to put you in contact with the builder who did it.

          .

          Excellence is its own reward!

          1. FastEddie1 | Nov 14, 2003 06:21am | #32

            Ok, I'll check the site.Do it right, or do it twice.

    3. User avater
      coonass | Nov 13, 2003 02:19am | #27

      Matt,

      I think you're thinking about Lawrence. Check out the listing at the bottom. He's everywhere! :)

      http://www.gardenstructure.com/contractors/1/1/

      KK

      1. dIrishInMe | Nov 13, 2003 05:24am | #30

        Yea, that's him.  He is still around here...?

        Matt

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