Can one use Pex for running HW heat? We’re finishing our basement and we’re probably going to hold off putting in heat. We’re going to convert our fireplace to gas. If we end up using the finished basement more and still need some heat, then we’re going to go back and add the heat.
It’ll be metal studs floating from the exterior wall with easily removable wainscotting panels, so it shouldn’t be that hard to run 1/4″ copper in when necessary. But then I thought that Pex would make it even easier, and, I imagine, quieter as well. Plus, it’d make for some easier routing around the permimeter of the basement.
A bit of googling shows that it’s used (of course) all the time in radiant slab heating, but I didn’t see anything stating whether it could/should be used for general HW heating runs.
If it can be done, it looks like I’d need to use an 02 barrier tube.
Anyone ever done this?
Replies
Yes you can. Anywhere you use copper you can use PEX, it's just cheaper and easier to work with. I used it for my radiant heat and all the water supply in my home.
Has there been any progress on standardizing PEX coupling systems? I read an article a couple years ago that they were working on it. At the time, you commited to a manufacturer and his tools.
In my house, I don't want to install any plumbing systems that are going to be discontinued. If there was a standard, I'd be a PEX nut, but I figure I'll still be able to buy copper elbows in 30 years.
I vote for Kitec fittings . No special tools needed ,just the wrenches that you have .
sorry partner... but you gotta have 1 special tool for Kitec. the reaming tool
Kitec rules. I am wearing a Kitec hat as I type. LOL
I have the Kitek reamer , but I think you could do the job with a regular reamer or a knife if you were good at carving. Anything to chamfer the inside of the tube would do the trick so it will slide over the Orings.
Kitek? ,what is this Kitek? enlighten me please. I was just recently certified for the wirsbo PEX at the local plumbing supply, the manufacturer's rep gives a class. haven't heard of Kitek before.
Kitek is the best system for fastening pex to manifolds/appliances,etc. They also make pex tubing. The conectors have a tight slip fit male section with o rings and a nut and ferrel that threads on over the pex and secures it . Leak free first time every time . No special crimpers that run in the 100s of dollars , and no need to buy a crimper for each size of pipe you tend to work on that day.
I have seen the system that has barbed fittings that the pex is loose enough that will not hold an ounce of pressure,till you buy an expensive crimper and crimp a small ring over the tube. If you are lucky it will smash the pex tight enough to not leak.
Look for a Kitek supplier in your area. I think that you can get Kitek from Radiantec or from Farm tek in Iowa.
I assume you mean using PEX to supply copper baseboard.
PEX has some limitations. One is UV resistance in exposed locations. Another is that it is not 'self-supporting' for horizontal runs, and it gets rather limp at high temps. Expansion and contraction is another factor. Just need to plan accordingly.
Proprietary fittings are a pain. If the manufacturers could agree on a standard, it would help them swipe market share from other materials.
They seem to be content fighting with each other for [existing] PEX market share, instead of working together to take share from competing materials.
Edited 10/31/2003 1:40:09 PM ET by csnow
Yes, sorry if I wasn't clear...I would intend to use these to supply baseboard heaters around the permiter of the basement.
I'd probably use the UV protected one for in the utility room, and it sounds like I should definitely go with the ones with an oxygen barrier.
As for the self-supporting, are you referring to long runs that copper typically handles or would that even be a problem when going through studs at 16" apart as well?
So standard fittings? Ugh. I can see how that's a huge drawback.
Right, compared to copper, PEX needs a lot more attachment points for support.
You may want to use some sort of bushing when going through studs. Need to allow for expansion and contraction.
Anyway to run radiant loops under your finished floor? That would be much nicer.
Edited 11/1/2003 8:35:15 PM ET by csnow
Just to clarify...are you saying that standard 16" span between studs would *not* be enough support for pex? How do they normally run pex through walls?
As for radiant floor heating, that'd be great, but this is just going to be a basement finishing, so we're going to be using floor-board heat (if we find that need it in addition to the fireplace).
Studs 16" oc will work fine.
Use an O2 barrrier if the system is closed or you have cast iron, etc.