*
I’ve had a Vangaurd, re-inforced, tubular steel over angle iron, with welded mesh screen over the rear window. It’s been on my half ton for five years. Alway’s loaded with something, has a 1000 lb. rating, cost about $ 275.00 in ’92 or ’93. Got it installed in about one hour, piece of cake.
Typical heavy load that it handles. 4-doubled 2x4x24′ doug fir poles with pump jacks , 3-2x12x16 (actual size)rough sawn’s, 3-32′ type 1A extension ladders, maybe a dozen 2x4x16’s, maybe two other ladders ( 12 – 24′), and a 100 lb siding brake! No problems to date, bolts came loose once. Powder coating has failed in a bunch of places, nuthin that rust-oleum can’t handle.
Replies
*
Scooter, This is round about but. I have a chop saw stand made by Trac Racs. EXCELLENT! I can't help but believe that the truck rack is of the same quality,good price.Well engineered.Gregg
*
Here is a non controversial topic that would be interesting. I am going to buy a stupid little pick up truck, you know one of those stupid little japanese jobs, and will want to install a rack on top for lumber. I have seen, and currently own, the basic tube steel jobs over 1 1/2" angle iron. I have also seen advertised some fancy types in FHB.
Does anyone have any experience with some of the newer types? Brand names and models please. Or we could talk about attic venting.......
*I guess i own one of those "stupid japanese pick-up trucks" that was made in Indiana while my friends Ford was made in Mexico and Canada...oh, where was I going with this....that I've had the same truck for years and he's on his third...no that wasnt it...oh, ya, the rack. I put a shell on the bed of mine, then installed a Yakima rack on the shell. Hauls everything from lumber, to alumimum plank, to ladders, to my kayak. I can even strap my wheelbarrow or mortar box up there. Works great for me. Now, about that attic venting...seal the vents up and be done with it right??!! DaveI work with a guy we call Scooter....
*....I cannot tell a lie. I too have one. Got to be carefull how much weight you put up top, can get a bit hairy going round corners.
*I got some racks that go over the canopy on my little truck last year from Kargo Master 1-800-343-7486. They had more to them than the other racks I saw while shopping around and I'm very happy with them. If you're going to get a canopy to go under the racks I' really suggest hinged side windows so you can access all the stuff bungied to the side walls of the bed easily.
*I've had a Vangaurd, re-inforced, tubular steel over angle iron, with welded mesh screen over the rear window. It's been on my half ton for five years. Alway's loaded with something, has a 1000 lb. rating, cost about $ 275.00 in '92 or '93. Got it installed in about one hour, piece of cake. Typical heavy load that it handles. 4-doubled 2x4x24' doug fir poles with pump jacks , 3-2x12x16 (actual size)rough sawn's, 3-32' type 1A extension ladders, maybe a dozen 2x4x16's, maybe two other ladders ( 12 - 24'), and a 100 lb siding brake! No problems to date, bolts came loose once. Powder coating has failed in a bunch of places, nuthin that rust-oleum can't handle.
*
Scooter
I looked at them all and decided to make my own. Decided that I didn't want a one piece all welded up unit because it took up a patch of ground the size of the truck whenever I took it off. So I made two sides, a section across behind the cab and then a fourth piece of double tube that rests on top of the first three and extends out over the cab. I made it as low profile as possible. I don't have any rating but it is 2" X 1-1/2" 11 gauge and bolted together with stainless steel fasteners. I built the sides to carry 90" Delta side boxes so they are mostly a frame. Tying stuff down was always a problem in the past so I raised the bottom rail about 2" off the 3X3 angle that attaches to the box. With a few verticle pieces welded in I can tie down anything. I also found that I could slip 2X6's across the bed under that raised rail. Slap a 3/4 thick 4X8 piece of plywood on the 2X6's and you have a bed cover. The cabover section can also have cross pieces added. Tools go under and materials over.
I did have one problem. The rear removable cross bar is located INSIDE the rack, flush across the back. If I want to carry 4X8 sheets of WHATEVER on edge (strapped to the toolbox) I can't use the crossbar at the same time. So, be sure the rear cross bar allows a full eight feet INSIDE the framework. Do those smaller pickups normally have 8' foot boxes? Well, maybe you don't need 8 feet. I know I have carried 2000 pounds on that rack but as was previously mentioned--ease around those corners and if you have a lot of steel (rebar, tubing, etc) make sure you tie down to the side frame. I lashed a load to the removable rear cross bar, drove across a RR track and the whole load went down, then up (pulling the crossbar pins out of the rack) and then, THEN IT CRASHED ON THE TAILGATE! Ouch! Well, time to locate a 454 cu in to give my well racked pickup some real pickup!