I may have a shot at getting a shop built in the near future. Like most everybody else, budget is limited.
Guy told me a well engineered pier and beam foundation can be every bit as solid as a slab, but for less money. What do you all think?
I like the idea of being able to get under the floor to add mechanicals, plumbing, etc., as time and money permit.
I don’t like the idea of bouncing across a plywood floor, and someday finding my jointer or tablesaw sitting on the ground under the shop because the floor rotted out.
I am looking at a 24 X 32 (or so) building, 9′ ceilings, attic space under a 12/12 roof.
Thanks
Replies
I dont see how a strong framed floor could be cheaper or better then concrete. Concrete will never where out or rot or bounce. For about 1000.00 you could have concrete (not including footings) and never worry about it. If you plan ahaed and put conduit where you think you might need it down the road it will always be there and its cheap. If you dont need it cut it off. Cut in you joints instead of a deep grovve joint and it will make sweeping alot easier also.
Goodluck Chris
Closer to $3600
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Chris,The concrete itself would probably be more than $1000, depending on your location and the price of cement. Labor would add a considerable amount.To the OP, I would lean towards concrete because it's almost completely maintenance free and you never have to worry about your floor loads (within reason).
Jon Blakemore
Let's see... In my location, assuming a 6" slab to make it easy24 x 32 x .5 / 27 = 14 yards14 x $138/yd = $1932 for concrete for the slab (not counting footings, rebar, etc etc). I would guess that my concrete costs are higher than most and perhaps by a lot. You would probably need more site work with a slab, but that would depend on your site.How much for framed flooring (assuming that you *don't* plan to drive a vehicle on it)?Tom
Edited 12/1/2004 1:32 pm ET by tlambert
If you intend to pull vehicles into the shop from time to time, and you probably will, I would go with concrete.
You can never build it too big.
"I will never surrender or retreat. " Col. Wm. B. Travis, The Alamo, Feb. 1835
Where I live we have frost lines and our codes force us to have piers 42" below grade. In my area, instead of using a foundation, I would go with the pier and beam construction. I would block under the beam, flash it, and pour a slab. That is the cheapest way to go.
Thanks for all the replies.
I am in central TX. I don't know what concrete goes for, but I would be absolutely floored (haha) if it was anywhere near $130+/yd.
Frost line here is probably about 1/4". We are sitting on about 2" of dirt, under that is a limestone slab that, as far as I can tell, goes to New Mexico, or so.
We had a garage slab capped last year, it cost about $1000 for ~400 sq ft, average 5" thick, with rebar, labor, etc.
I'd rather do it right and cry once, but I want to be sure I know what right is.
concrete here is about $100 yard and there is no such thing as a frost line here and for a 1 story house the footings only need to be 12 inches deep or 2 story is 18 inches. I figured a slab at 4 inches thick unless its for heavy equipment (tractors and stuff) that should be plenty. Labor wise if I had my choice I would much rather pour concrete foundation/slab then pour a foundation with peirs then wood on top.
Be floored
Having it placed here last year ran around $250/yard
The dirt work was extra.
Forms, labor and steel are not cheap. They are not include in the price the batch plant quotes you.
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I've never done one, but I've always wondered;When done the way you describe, what prevents frost from working its way under the slab at the edges and heaving? I always assumed a frost footing needed to be "continuous" in order to act properly.help?
What are you going to do in there?
That would determine the answer for me.
Language is my second language.