Will make several concrete piers 12″ dia, 4 ft deep, 18″ above the ground, during September in North Canada. They will be exposed to weather (very cold, snow, rain, wind). Will it make any damage to piers if i get done construction next year Springtime. How about rebar protruding out of the piers?
Thank you guys for your time
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Replies
No, the weather shouldn't hurt anything. If you're concerned wrap the piers with visqueen and tape.
You just want them to be reasonably well cured before the serious frost hits, and maybe make a little effort to assure that they don't get soaking wet from fall rains.
If you're really worried, cover them with straw or soil.
will try to find the wrap. Will it work in Northern Canada where weather can be very cold.
The piers are 16" above ground and it will be difficult to cover it with soil.
How about if I wrap it with nylon to prevent soak with rain?
Dan-My two cents- they are concrete! What's your worry? As someone pointed out, just make sure they are protected from freezing in first 7 days-which a September pour even in northern Canada should not be an issue. Max strength at 30days. as for the rebars, unless they are coated, they will have rust on them when you set them.
Only concern I have is if they are 4' piers with 18" exposed, that says they are only 30" in the ground. From a frost heaving point of view, that would not be acceptable here in Mass., never mind northern Canada. Don't know what ypor load will be on these piers but yopu also might think about using "Big Foot" footings. Not only do you get the benefit of greater load bearing, but in my opinion they serve as a "mushroom anchor" and resist heaving.
Dan-My two cents- they are concrete! What's your worry? As someone pointed out, just make sure they are protected from freezing in first 7 days-which a September pour even in northern Canada should not be an issue. Max strength at 30days. as for the rebars, unless they are coated, they will have rust on them when you set them.
Only concern I have is if they are 4' piers with 18" exposed, that says they are only 30" in the ground. From a frost heaving point of view, that would not be acceptable here in Mass., never mind northern Canada. Don't know what ypor load will be on these piers but yopu also might think about using "Big Foot" footings. Not only do you get the benefit of greater load bearing, but in my opinion they serve as a "mushroom anchor" and resist heaving.
What is far more important is the mix you use. Keep it as dry ( low slump) as possible. Then wrap it with plasstic while it cures for a week or so
And with only 2/3s below ground, you are likely to have frost heaving unless there is ledge to anchor it to or you do some very special soil prep.. Dig deeper
Refill material is important because it is what will heave the post out. There were some articles on how to protect/use the post to prevent this.
Only other thing would be to cover the rebar points so nobody gets stabbed and to flag the posts so you can find them under the snow.
Thanks guys for your time
" think about using "Big Foot" footings. Not only do you get the benefit of greater load bearing, but in my opinion they serve as a "mushroom anchor" and resist heaving. "
At bottom of pier I will make a box around 20x20" square and 8" height. It will be footing for each pier. All piers will be 4 ft under ground and 18" above, so in total 5.5 ft length.
Piers will support one entrance room as addition to the original house. Load will be heavy tools that I will store in it.
I cannot find crack-resistant concrete in my area (with air-entrainment) but 5000 psi concrete is available so the plan is to use that 5000 psi concrete for piears.
No AE concrete?
That surprises me. Are you doing sack crete, or redymix?
I'm not sure I'd do a form at the bottom of the hole. I'd just excavate, pull out the loose disturbed stuff with a vacuum, and pour neat to the original undisurbed soil.
Inspector (NJ) wanted 18x18 footing for my kitchen addition on piers. They allow pier as footing for decks. I thought bigfoot was more than I wanted to spend, and required more digging for one man operation.
Note that if you're doing this with Sakrete you'll want to minimize the total volume of the footing. Take this into account when you design your forms.
True-using "Big foot" does
True-using "Big foot" does require a bit more work as you are digging a bigger hole-if you have a backhoe, no big deal-if by hand, an issue. the advantage besides holding power is you are making one pour-vs two with a footing and then a tube
True-using "Big foot" does
True-using "Big foot" does require a bit more work as you are digging a bigger hole-if you have a backhoe, no big deal-if by hand, an issue. the advantage besides holding power is you are making one pour-vs two with a footing and then a tube
True-using "Big foot" does
True-using "Big foot" does require a bit more work as you are digging a bigger hole-if you have a backhoe, no big deal-if by hand, an issue. the advantage besides holding power is you are making one pour-vs two with a footing and then a tube
You can say that again!
Go Round not Square
what you need is the equivalent area, to the 18X18. Which is 324-square inches. Or just over 20-inches in diameter.
You should make a 24-inch hole, and leave the bottom of the sonotube up off the bottom a bit more than the footing thickness. Fill the sonotube untill the concrete quits coming out the bottom, and hit it once with a vibrator to get it consolidated, then go do the other posts while it sets up for a bit, then come back and pour the columns.