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Pinhole leaks in galvanized water tank

| Posted in Construction Techniques on February 8, 2003 11:52am

We use a 10′ diameter x 10′ tall galvanized culvert for potable water storage.  It has begun to form pin hole leaks, and we would like some help on coatings, to seal the leaks and extend the life,  that are compatible with consumable water.  The tank is exterior and goes through several freeze thaw cycles each winter.  Plastic liners are available but get torn up from ice, so we would prefer not to use one. 

Any suggestions would be appreciated. 

Thank you,

Joe Odell

 

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  1. junkhound | Feb 09, 2003 02:43am | #1

    Try punching washers out of old inner tubes and use a heavy galvanized pan head sheet metal screw into the pinhole with the washer under the head.  I've had some of these last over 25 year (my water tank in pumphouse has about 10 of thes and it's still going strong, lots easier and cheaper than replacement. Also tried driving in wood plugs (maple), but the screws work a lot better.

    Think the heavy galvanizing is the trick, would not try it with ungalvanized or brass.

  2. Dant45 | Feb 09, 2003 03:49am | #2

    How about fiberglass?  Sand the area clean or wire brush.  Get a fiberglass repair kit for boats.  Mix it up, paint it on, add mat, paint some on.  DanT

    1. User avater
      BillHartmann | Feb 09, 2003 09:34pm | #4

      You can use the fiberglass, but you don't want to use a repair kit. Those usually have polyester resins. They don't stick to steel that well.

      You want to use epoxy and if it is exposed then cover it with paint.

  3. IronHelix | Feb 09, 2003 07:02am | #3

    There are hex /washer headed "tek" screws with neopreme washers that will drill in the pin hole, cut its own threads in the culvert, pull the neopreme washer up snugg and seal the drip.   Available in an assortment of diameters....sometimes I add a little silcone caulkas insurance!!  

    .........................Iron Helix

  4. FixItManRandom | Jul 06, 2011 05:46pm | #5

    Leaks in Galvanized Tanks

    Anyone consider using an 1/8 " Blind Rivet on these types of holes? They grip tight in tension, and can't get loose over time as a screw might. But, is it better galvanically to use a SS rivet, an aluminum rivet, or a steel rivet with nickel coating when in contact with the tank with a rusty hole? Would have to drill out the 'pin' hole to a larger 1/8" hole to get the rivet in though.

    Has anyone tried this approach? Comments?

    1. DanH | Jul 06, 2011 11:02pm | #6

      That's a standard boilermaker's patch.  (Of course they use purpose-made rivets.)

  5. Tyr | Jul 10, 2011 10:45pm | #7

    Water Tank Holes

    I've use all of the above with the exception of fiberglass.  All worked.  The washer/innertube is still working but on a metal shed--no water.  I had a water tank about the same diameter but shorter.  Used epoxy there.  Had to enter through an access port so ventilation was restricted.  We used a breathing tube.  No paint to peel off.  We boiled all the water we drank.

    Generally we drained the tank in the winter so it didn't freeze.  My brother in MN is always fighting freezing water.  Tank would be too big for heat tape.  He suggested 2in of poly iso and 3 incandescent light bulbs if you can find them.  He always rigged up a temp sensor to turn the lights off when above freezing and turn them on when the temp dropped.  Good Luck, Tyr

    1. DanH | Jul 11, 2011 07:21am | #8

      Why not a stock tank heater?

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