Just got done demoing bath with 2″ mortar bed under floor tiles. The CI drain pipe from the tub runs across the floor perpedicular to the joists to the other side of the room. They notched out the joists to take the pipe but it sticks up about an inch proud of the joists. I’m putting 1 1/4″ of plywood on top of the joists, then cement board then tile. Do I have rip this pipe out and do something else or can I run the plywood to it with a thin bridge of plywood over the top?
Actually, there’s a fitting on this run, so that part would probably only have cement board over it. As I’m writing this, I get the sinking feeling that I have to remove the pipe. I have a couple of other drains around the basemnet I can Y into. So my next question, can I cut a 1 1/2″ CI pipe with a sawsall? What’s the best way to cap off the pipe?
Replies
can I cut a 1 1/2" CI pipe with a sawsall?
They sell a lennox blade for cutting cast iron, 1 1/2" should be no problem
What's the best way to cap off the pipe?
I'm no plumber, but I would guess fernco(sp.?). Black rubber cap, just like they use for cast iron connections, but a cap.
I'm putting 1 1/4" of plywood on top of the joists, then cement board then tile.
Some of you guys crack me up! Why dont you put a few MORE layers on top of the joisst while you're at it?
Why don't you fir up the joists with 1x or 5/4 spruce, put your two layers of ply, glued and screwed together and be done with it.
I simply cannot imagine the usefullness of adding cbu on top a a sufficient substrate to achieve what?
If you have a small spot at the ci hub where you are lacking layers, don't loose a lot of sleep over it. It is more important to find out if your joist spacing and span is sufficient, but perhaps you have overlooked this.
Eric
It's Never Too Late
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What You Might Have Been
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Why don't you put a few MORE layers on top of the joists while your at it?
The advice I've seen from a number of posters here is to have at least 1 1/4" of plywood under tiles. I'm just a DYI HO, I'd rather ere on the side of caution.
Why don't you fir up the joists with 1x or 5/4...
Because then the finished floor will be 1" or 1 1/4" higher than the hallway floor.
I simply cannot imagine the usefullness of adding cbu...
What I've read here on this topic is that most people feel cement board is a better surface for attaching tile than plywood, again I'll ere on the side of caution.
It is more important to find out if your joist spacing and span is sufficient...
2 x 10, 10' span, 16" o.c. It held 2" of mortar and 3 layers of tile just fine, I'll assume it will hold some plywood and cement board.
Edited 7/23/2005 7:01 pm ET by rich
rich,
I don't see anything wrong with your plan. The only thing that seems over kill is the cement board on top of 1 1/4" of ply. That said, if that works for floor height, then more power to you.
Just curious, were you existing joists V'd on the top? How old is your house? Around here most mud floors were done after they V'd the top of the joists with a hatchet, and laid 1x6 between the joists to support the concrete.
No, they put nailers on the side of the joists and then put the 1x6s on those, set about an inch lower than the top of the joists. House is a 1929 Chicago brick bungalow. Thousands of homes here and in the near suburbs built almost exactly the same.
yep same here, Pittsburgh. I think the V'd joists is a local thing though. Unfortunately, I've remodeled many of them, carrying concrete down the steps, is no fun.
I'm lucky, the bath window is about 9' off the ground. I demoed the window and carried everything out through the opening down a ladder. My wife would have killed me if i walked through the house with all that garbage.
I'm not clear on what the v is for. Is that where they nailed the planks?
The 1x6 are nailed to blocking, which is nailed to the side of the joist. I think they V'd the tops to bond with the mortar bed. Not sure to be honest. It's a real PITA to fix.
Depending on how level the floor is, and finish floor heights in other rooms. Usually we would sister 2x8's to the side of the existing joists. Sometimes we would have to chaulk a line, and cut the top of the joists square, always a pain.
Guess you answered your own question then.
I've been using thinset over ply for 25 years. Guess I need to rethink my process.
EricIt's Never Too Late
To Become
What You Might Have Been
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2 x 10, 10' span, 16" o.c.
That calculates to an L/857 so you're good to go.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.