Replies

1. 
   dude | Mar 13, 2009 12:56pm | #1

   Im in a 1873 stone home with 30" walls

   they are flared in with the windows at the outside like you normally see

   behind the flare it is insulated as much as possible , then vapour barrier then drywall , looks something like a castle on the inside with copper plant trays on the sills ( windows are awning style due to depth

2. 
   calvin | Mar 13, 2009 01:07pm | #2

   Similar to the post above but in a newer home, we have thick walls.  Flared the interiors also so as to allow more sunlight (passive solar) and increase the view from the sides of the window openings.  Ours have drywall returns.

   Know that for a straight return you can order them deeper-still leaving a bit to extend to fine tune the opening.

   Also, I'm familiar with a couple window companies that offer a mounting clip.  If a fin installation is not wanted due to the stucco/brick, you fasten a clip to the window jamb.  Set the window in the opening and then fasten the clip (metal strap) to the framing at the inside perimeter of the opening.  Easy to do in a wood frame, possible but more difficult in a masonry opening.  Order w/o the mounting fins.

   A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

1. 
   hammer102 | Mar 13, 2009 04:46pm | #4

   I haven't heard of those clips you mentioned, but I can think of a few instances where I would have liked to use them.

1. 
   calvin | Mar 17, 2009 02:21am | #6

   Take a look at Pella and Marvin's site.  See if you can find "mounting clips".  Usually ordered w/o fins, or with fins still folded back.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

2. 
   calvin | Mar 17, 2009 02:53am | #8

   Here's hopefully a link to a pdf instruction file from Marvin.

   Marvin Mounting Clips.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

3. 
   doitall | Mar 13, 2009 03:19pm | #3

   My dad had a 1850's brick home gutted and remodeled by a contractor about ten years ago.

   Same issue - thick brick walls. The contractor set the windows out front on the opening and had deep jamb extensions (like 10 or 12"). He used Marvin windows, and if I remember correctly, he special ordered the clear pine jamb extensions from them. I don't have a pic, but all the windows (about 20) came out looking great, and the jamb fit was factory tight.

   Hope this helps.

   DIA

4. 
   john7g | Mar 13, 2009 04:50pm | #5

   have you asked your window supplier what kind of options/variables they have to help match what you want?

5. 
   ponytl | Mar 17, 2009 02:46am | #7

   i have set many windows & doors in old brick walls usually 18"-24" thick....

   there is an issue with expandion & contraction...   as you will note in old buildings there are no expandion joints...  why? because they used soft  lime mortar and it had "crush" and it self healed....

   knowing this I shim my windows and doors into place... then i "foam" them in... thats right  few if any mechanical fastners...  they are held in place and sealed  with cans of spray foam... they allows them to absorb some movement... insulates... and secures them into place...

   we extend jambs to meet the need... no 2 are ever alike...

   good luck

   p

6. 
   DaveRicheson | Mar 20, 2009 02:04pm | #9

   I have made my own jamb extensions for Semco windows. They are really easy if you make them before the windos are installed. Just use biscuits to attach the extensions to the jambs, screw or nail the head and sill extensions to the sides, and clamp every thing in place while the glue dries.

   Alternately you can cut your biscuit slots in each window jamb before you install them and later custom build the jamb extension to fit the irregularities of the interior wall. I Joint all my extension pieces and assemble them with glue and screws. I then cut the matching biscuit slots to match the slots already cut in the window jambs. Glue the biscuits and mateing surfaces and clamp the whole assembly in place with batten strips scewed to the walls across the window opening.

   The advantage of the second method is that you can use the mounting clips Calvin spoke of, and you get to custome fitt each piece of the extension jamb to the wall it will be set in. By using biscuits joints you also eliminate all face nailing through the jamb extensions. If done with care you fabricated and installed extension jambs can't be differintiated from a factor installed extension. You also get to select the wood spieces and grade  you use.