Hello,
Happy New Year to one and all.
We decided to finally break down and get a flat screen, so we had an electrician in to run some wires. As it is in an old house, it was a tough job that required LOTS of holes be made in the wall.
I now have the daunting task of patching the holes! I am pretty skilled at wall repair, if I do say so myself .. but they were always smaller, and I usually had some lathe left to get the joint compound to stick to. In this case some on the lathes had to be removed, ( see pictures ).
Any hints on what’s the best way to proceed here? shall I add some new wood slats to replace the missing lathes? Is joint compound still the best way to go? I was reading about something called ‘hot mud’ and I was wondering if it would be better in this case.
Thanks for your ideas!
~ Rosa
Replies
In the holes where the wood lath (no "e", that's a machine) is intact, I'd use perlighted gypsum plaster (also known as Gypsolite or Structolite) as the first coat, pretty much like it was done originally. Get some plaster bond, brush that on the edges of the old plaster and lath, mix up the Gypsolite, and trowel it onto the lath. Make sure some squeezes thu the gaps in the lath, so it locks into the wall. Leave it a little shy of the finished wall surface. Once its set up, I'd use DuraBond or EasySand (aka "hot mud") for the top coat, partly because its sets up quicly, and multiple coats can be applied in a day. The EasySand, as the name implies, is easier to sand than the DuraBond. But joint compound can be used, too. But I'd only use the regular (green) compound, because I think its stronger.
In the areas where the lath is missing, you're going to have to figure out how to fill some in. I've done it several ways- 1) cut lath to length, use construction adhesive to attach it to the existing plaster, then proceed as above. Or carefully drill holes thru the existing plaster, and run screws thru into some kind of backer.
Or you can use sheetrock, and make a hat patch. Basically, cut a piece of sheetrock about 3" larger than the hole. Then score the back of the sheetrock, leaving a 1-1/2" flange all around. Snap the rock at the score line, and gently peel off the core and back paper, leaving the front paper intact. Then apply joint compound tho the edge of the hole, and on the wall, and set the patch in place. Squeeze the compound out with a taping knife, and omce dry, give it several more coats, feathering it in.
Time for a Huckvideo don't you think?A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
He did one on plaster repair?
I know that, for me, a lot of these techniques are a lot easier to show than to try to type out directions.
I might have to get a D90 so I can start making vids.
I don't think he did one yet.
But it would be one of those easier to show than explain aids.
He's become the BT cecil b. demille.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
You could make the holes all round and turn your fireplace into a giant Spongebob.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
What Shep said for the spots where the lath is still good. Wet the lath first or it'll suck the new plaster dry.
For the other holes, here's what I usually do. Carefully cut the plaster around the holes back about 1/2" all around, so lath is exposed on all the edges. If the plaster is old/soft, you can get away using a utility knife. Otherwise, a diamond wheel in a grinder. Get some diamond lath (metal lath) and cut it to fit the new hole. Fix the diamond lath to the existing lath around the boarders. I've used construction adhesive, hot glue or plaster. Then proceed as you did for the other holes.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Thanks for all the great information!
I'm thinking I may go for the hat patch where there is no lath ( without an e <smile>) since I have some sheetrock in my basement sitting there doing nothing.
Now to get to the hardware store for the rest of the stuff...
I'll let you know how it turns out - wish me luck! ;)
Thanks again,
~ Rosa
ya know, I've used the diamond lath just as you described.
But I completely forgot about it when I wrote my post.
Good things there's others here to take up the slack.
Yes - diamond lath as mentioned - and in the holes where there is ... nothing ... you can easily add wood blocking for the lath by gooping up some wood strips with HD Liquid Nails, putting it in the holes 'sideways' and turning it 90 degrees once in behind the plaster - drive a drywall screw or two to make sure, then staple on diamond lath with stainless staples.
Been there, done that.
Jeff ;o)
Edited 2/4/2009 8:38 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke