I’m doing a two coat veneer ceiling.
Well I ran short of the base coat.
So my question is….
If I finish the rest of the first coat tomorrow morning,
can I apply the finish in the afternoon?
Or will I get discoloration from the two different batches?
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Replies
I think you'll get a mis-match at the join, but it MIGHT fade with time.
Forrest
What if I finish the first coat, and then let both
cure completely before top coating? Short of that I think it's time for paint.
DW and I have only done the one-coat version, then let it dry for a month before painting - probably longer than we needed to.
Forrest
Yeah, should have stuck with one coat.
Always trying to make everything perfect you know... I had this nasty looking butt joint, so "Hay
I know, I'll make it hard on myself!" For the record the basecoat is very gritty and
harder to work with. I'd very much like to get a consistent color and not paint.
you can break off the first coat anyplace, anytime
final coat you want to break off where it won't show....like an inside corner or an outside corner
but if you get caught out , you can break off final coat too
Diamond breaks off better than Imperial... sometimes you can use joint compound to blend a breakoff joint
Thanks Mike. Any thoughts about the time I should wait before
second coat? Makes sense to me that I'd have to let the whole thing
dry completely to avoid the seam bleeding through. But if I dampened the older part...
are you going to leave it unfinished, or paint it ?
unfinished, the breakoff will show
painted, it will not showMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Yeah, I wanted to leave it unpainted. So, no hope of letting it completely dry,
then finish coating?
yes.... you just have to do the finish coat with no break offMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
That's what I was wanted to hear! LOL Thanks again.
Chuck
the finish coat is going to dry ( cure ) at different rates in different locations
when i watch the plasterers they work across the area, applying it.... then they go back anf finish trowel it... then they go back with water and flick it on with a brush and polish it with their finish trowels
small walls, one man...
bigger walls, more men....
but they keep working the wall until it's done... no stops
Diamond has more working time than Imperial
if it kicks , you're done.... the only thing you can do then is apply joint compound
find a small wall to practise your technique onMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
It's just bath, 11x12 ceiling. I've had a trowel in my hand since I was
very young. So I feel comfortable tackling
the laying off. Granted this is my first
plaster project! Yeah, your method was what I was thinking. Covering the surface as rapidly as I
can neatly manage.
Then immediately going over it again.
Adding water as necessary. One detail I read has me wondering. One
of the many web pages I've been scouring talked
about not over troweling it.
Just didn't make much sense to me. I mean once
it kicks it's done.
USG has advised us to do the base and top coats the same day. When skimming with plaster, base coat must not be dry before applying topcoat. Wet is applied to wet for proper bond. That's one of the benefits of plaster - start to finish in the same day and no sanding.Joint compound is different. Each coat must be dry prior to the application of the next coat. Wet is applied to dry to get the suction for proper bond.When you are going to paint is the best time to practice your plaster work. The learning curve and any associated errors can be repaired with compound and then painted. Plaster cannot be sanded.Prior to top-coating yesterday's base coat, mist the base coat with water. As for overworking, one of the things to watch out for is "burning" the veneer. This is when the trowel is pressed too hard - during polishing - and causes a streak (dark patch/ stroke) to form. If you are doing the work all yourself, you won't need to worry about variation of stroke. Everyone has their own signature/ stroke. For ceilings, I prefer to use a mist bottle (an old Windex bottle) or better yet a pump tank used for applying pesticide to garden plants. You can buy one at the Big Box stores for $20. Traditionally a 6" brush is used (dipping it in a bucket of water) but a novice might have difficulty applying it to a ceiling without drenching the whole room.I hope this helps.Frankie
Flay your Suffolk bought-this-morning sole with organic hand-cracked pepper and blasted salt.
Thrill each side for four minutes at torchmark haut. Interrogate a lemon.
Embarrass any tough roots from the samphire. Then bamboozle till it's al dente with that certain je ne sais quoi.
Arabella Weir as Minty Marchmont - Posh Nosh
Yes, very helpful. Thanks.
I had intended to do both coats today,but underestimated
my material. I'm working on my own house, so it's a good opportunity to
experiment. If it needs paint in the end, it's not a problem.
"That's one of the benefits of plaster - start to finish in the same day and no sanding."Yet drywall mud rules in construction. Is plaster a faster, better, less costly alternative? I would love to know more.I came across this plaster application on Youtube:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wvf2UGMnjuEvery coolHere is the same product being applied over Durock for a tub surround:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRrHJpUtQSwI wonder what they do for the corner, so they don't leak. The product becomes hydrophobic once it dries.A no tile shower, who awesome would that be?Anybody know if there is a locally available product like Tadelakt.
Edited 1/3/2009 11:22 pm ET by yojimbo2
Plaster work requires better and more skills - in application technique, time management and focus, to name a few. More skill requires more $$.Compound requires skill, but not as much and mistakes can easily be sanded out.As for dust - Clients don't care how much dust we are exposed to, especially if the dustier method is cheaper. Also, clients don't do the "dust calculation" of what they'll be exposed to when they sign the contract.Frankie
Flay your Suffolk bought-this-morning sole with organic hand-cracked pepper and blasted salt.
Thrill each side for four minutes at torchmark haut. Interrogate a lemon.
Embarrass any tough roots from the samphire. Then bamboozle till it's al dente with that certain je ne sais quoi.
Arabella Weir as Minty Marchmont - Posh Nosh
Has anyone done a Tadelak shower?I want to do one.
bump for the TadelakMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
In my recent web research I found this forum- http://www.muralsplus.com/cgi-bin/discus/discus.cgi?pg=topics Couldn't imagine a more well informed group then them.
thks for the lead.
Just wanted to say thanks for the help.
I ended up with two top coats ( first one was full of mistakes). But the final look is indeed even, with no sign of the break in the brown coat. Things I've learned- Don't sweat the small stuff, just keep truckin.
The cage mixer recommended by the manufacturer
is impossible to clean.
Consistency of the mix is VITAL! I'll post pictures if I ever get done Thanks again
Chuck