During the last year I have been patching numerous holes, dents etc. on the plaster walls in my 50 year old house. Depending on situation I’m using either durabond and/or drywall compound. After sanding the patch, I spot prime the repair, prime the entire wall and then give it two coats of paint. In spite of all of this work the patch is still visible from the surrounding area.
What else can I do to avoid this problem? I would appreciate any tips or suggestions.
Edited 3/22/2007 7:08 pm ET by Flips
Edited 3/22/2007 7:16 pm ET by Flips
Replies
Use the stuff in the red-topped bucket - it's like heavy paint and DW mud mixed together - helps even out the paint sheen from mud to DW or plaster.
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You know, it doesn't really show up. But it does exist.
Forrest
Edited 3/22/2007 7:18 pm by McDesign
When you spot paint don't use a paint brush. Invest in a small roller and spot paint with that to keep the textures all the same. I say to use the small roller because its very easy to clean. Using a roller vs. a brush helps a lot in keeping the uniformity of the wall the the same on patches .
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Does the patch show because it is smoother? Or is it a color difference? I find the new patch finishes off too smooth. And old plaster looks ruff by comparison. The roller for priming will help give it an orange peel and may help it blend. Barmo
This may sound silly but I just finished fixing a 3-4 inch gap w/fiberglass mesh (weighted down by a pencil on a string) & BONDO. Pain in the glutious maximus to sand smooth but I primed 2x & just finished the first coat of paint last night(roller).
It's almost a pity that it will be mostly covered by a soon-to-be-purchased new light fixture.
I LOVE the smell of primer in the evening.
The difference between the smooth new patch, and the old plaster is usually what is most noticeable, that and a lot of times you'll see a patch just over the hole, with a nice ol' lip that makes a shadowline that's clear as day. Always feather those patches.
Like andybuildz said, use a roller instead of a paint brush. I actually keep a couple of old crusty rollers around that I use to do the prime coat on new patches. These are the old roller covers that have been used a few times so they have a pretty rough surface (I'm not so good about washing my roller covers really well). It's the closest thing I've gotten to matching the build up of old coats of paint on plaster and/or drywall.
After doing one or two coats of primer with the crusty roller, I use a new roller to paint over that with the wall/ceiling color. This has proven the best for me for matching a new patch to an old texture.
How is the patch visible; gloss, texture, visible border line between patch and old plaster, a bump, a depression? Give us some info to work with here.
The patch is feathered smooth around the edges and the paint gloss and texture is the same as the surrounding areas after two coats of paint. For lack of a better description I would say it's a visible border line between patch and the nearby original plaster. The patch is easier to see if you look at the wall at an angle or during the evening with interior lights on.
I'm definitely going to try a small roller for spot priming. I have a small roller but never thought to use it for that application. I've thought of priming with a stain blocking primer. Anybody think this would help?
KIlZ.. yes I have done it. Not always the answer , but it has worked sometimes.
"I would say it's a visible border line between patch and the nearby original plaster."Ok, I know what the problem is. Your patch is not perfectly feathered. This often happens if the old surface is textured at all because your sandpaper cannot get below the high spots on the old texture.The solution when the hot mud patch is set but not yet primed or painted is to feather with a damp sponge. It feathers out seamlessly that way, especially if you work from the center outward. since you have already primed and painted, you can try sanding the whole patch and surrounding inch or so with 100 grit, apply a thin coat of hot mud with a putty knife or drywall knife, allow to set and then feather with a sponge. If I wait too long to feather, I will use a kitchen spong with Scotchbrite on one side; take down the high spots with the rough side then finish with the smooth side."I've thought of priming with a stain blocking primer."Stain blocking is not the issue. Use any latex primer. If the walls have been painted several times, then an especially thick primer textured with a roller or, in the case of a small patch, by stippling with a brush in order to duplicate the existing texture. Finally, paint the wall with the same paint as the existing and stop looking so closely at the friggin patch. Your guests will head straight for the food without ever noticing the walls anyway.BruceT
I want to thank everyone for their quick responses. Hey Bruce. I feel a little silly but I don't know what hot mud is.
I feel a little silly but I don't know what hot mud is.<<Its mud in the powder form like Easy Sand that you mix up yourself. 30 min or 45 min or 90 min...that stuff.http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Edited 3/23/2007 3:30 pm ET by andybuildz
Hot mudAs Andy says, hot mud comes in powder form, either bags or boxes. Differens from normal drywall mud in that it sets up chemically in a short time so you don't have to wait overnight to do the finish coat and it doesn't shrink. Hereabouts it is available in 5 minute, 20 minute, 40 minute and 90 minute working times. Mix only as much as you can use in that time, because, like patching plaster or quick-dry cement, it starts reacting as soon as the water hits it and it will set up in your bucket if you work too slowly.BruceT
The mystery has been solved! I've been using hot mud all along and I didn't even know it.
I live in Toronto and in the stores here that type of mud goes by the trade name Durabond and that's all I have ever heard it referred to.
If it's glassy looking, too smooth, sand the patch with a coarser paper. Roll, or blot with a sponge, the primer to approximate the old matte finish.
Roll on a coat of "First Coat" to even the surface a bit.