Hi,
I have plaster walls which need repair in spots, do I need to use plaster for the repair or could I use the standard modern spackling mud or drywall mud? Some holes are just nail holes, but there are a few holes an inch or two wide all the way down to the lath board.
Thanks in advance,
Jon
Replies
For the larger patch I have had good luck using plaster of paris mixed with joint compound. It sets up faster but is stonger than just compound, but sands better than just plaster. And it also shinks less. Dont try to do a large hole in one shot, and spray the old area with a plant mister first, as well as get out any crumbs.
ditto what Sphere said, except I usually brush on a bonding agent before patching. It may be overkill, but I don't like call-backs. For large holes, I either fit a piece of drywall in the hole and tape it out, or do a traditional type plaster job, first with a brown coat and then a plaster finish coat. I'm not very good on large flat surfaces, but a hole a couple of feet square is manageble.
Ditto on the bonding agent. It is called "milk" and is a white liquid found in the masonory area of the Home Center. Mist it onto the edges of the old plaster after you have removed all the dust and crumbs. I use a piece of 1/2 drywall onto the lathe. I'll push patching plaster into the crevices but make them lower than the plaster and the drywall. It doesn't shrink. Then tape the edges and push in joint compound. Mix the joint compound fairly wet, thicker than the pre-mixed kind, and do several very thin coats. This way you don't have to sand.
On the nail holes, joint compound alone will work fine.
Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
For the nail holes, just about anything will work. For the larger ones, you'll need to use multiple layers, just like the original plasterer did.
For the first coat, you an use either spackle or joint compound, but you need to add some filler to it. I use sand, but you could also use sawdust. For really large areas, you'll also want some type of reinforcement -- hair clippings, dryer lint (horsehair was the original). This helps fill a large area, and it won't shrink much as it dries.
Leave the surface of that first coat ugly. You want it to have "teeth" to hold the next layer. I usually gouge and scratch it with the trowel -- or you could even use a toothed trowel.
And be sure that the first coat stays below the wall surface, so that there is room for additional coats.
For the remaining coats, don't use the filler. Build the surface till it is higher than the wall surface. And when it is dry, sand it down to smooth, and feather the edges.
Then prime and paint.