Replies

1. 
   arcflash | Dec 09, 2008 04:36am | #1

   Drill holes outside, and blow it in............patch and increase the rent $5 a month (not really!)

2. 
   Carpster | Dec 09, 2008 05:50am | #2

   Hi Workman, Excess moisture is the cause of the condensation on the walls. Using the bath vent during showers and the exhaust fan on the range when in use should remedy the problem providing they are vented to the exterior of the house. Also make sure the dryer is vented to the exterior. This would be an immediate fix and should cost you nothing. Hope this helps. Carpster

1. 
   workman67 | Dec 10, 2008 04:51am | #4

   no kidding!!---------they are only having this problem in the front of the building(2 walls) and these rooms are not far from a bath in which there is a fan but who knows if they run it??--------------thanks----------------i did find the site that i saw years back last nt that explains vapor barrriers and vapor retarders etc and after that i feel that this plaster is keeping the moisture from entering the inside(oil paint on these walls as well) so i would think that if i did rip these walls and insulate with unfaced batts(then paint drywall with latex), it may help the walls dry to the inside------------------------------but not posotive on this  so will keep and eye out for the next month---------------------thanks again!!

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Dec 10, 2008 04:17pm | #5

   " if i did rip these walls and insulate with unfaced batts(then paint drywall with latex), it may help the walls dry to the inside"

   Nope. To the contrary, it would help wet the insulation, destroy its R value and promote rot and mold since any water vapor reaching the insulation would condense inside the wall instead on the surface of the wall. This "fix" would simply make things worse.

   As mentioned in prior posts, the best solution here, IMHO, is to blow in celulose and keep the inside painted with a vapor barrier paint. Oh, and stress that exhaust fans are there for a purpose. Maybe even put a timer switch on it, or tie it in to the light circuit so it comes on whenever the light is on.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

1. 
   workman67 | Dec 11, 2008 03:49am | #7

   boy does this stuff confuses me at times--------------i appreciate the help---------------------------i will have to hunt down someone for this job though---------------------can this insulation be blown in from inside though???---------------this stucco on outside is real hard and wired so i am thinking it will look like #### with holes everywhere??

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Dec 11, 2008 03:01pm | #9

   It can be blown from in or out -- whichever is easier to patch. My installer can blow through holes small enough to fit between bricks, which means 1/2" or thereabouts, so patching doesn't have to be a huge deal. Lotta holes tho' -- two each bay on each floor.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

2. 
   BUIC | Dec 10, 2008 10:02pm | #6

     They make switches for bath fans that start and stop automatically by sensing the humidity in the room. Under $40 IIRC.

     Good to do whether you insulate or not...buic

3. 
   popawheelie | Dec 11, 2008 05:27am | #8

   You can wire the fan to go on with the light. You can also put both of them on a timer so it will turn off after a while.

    

4. 
   Piffin | Dec 11, 2008 03:40pm | #10

   You are on the wrong track to think of ripping plaster out. Batt insulation is the worst there is, and you can have better insulation blown in.
   you could have the bathroom fan wired to a humistat so it runs automatically when RH is too high. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   Jer | Dec 09, 2008 06:06am | #3

   It's the difference in temp that's causing the sweating. Yes, you should insulate. Forget about ripping all the plaster down & doing fiberglass.. Find a reputable insulator & have blown in.

   where in N. Jersey?