Replies

1. 
   jimblodgett | Apr 25, 2002 04:58pm | #1

   Did you sand and clean the existing surface before applying the glue? Did you use solvent based, or water based contact cement?

1. 
   user-33628 | Apr 25, 2002 05:15pm | #2

   Yes, we did sand and clean thoroughly -- used 60 grit random orbit, gave it a lacquer thinner cleaning and used solvent based cement.

2. 
   jocobe | Apr 25, 2002 11:27pm | #3

   If there are gaps where the top and edges come together, it's probably not perfectly flat and/or square.  I would jam some white glue in the joint, put a piece of wax paper on top of the deck, then clamp it with a handscrew (or c-clamp) and a block of wood overnight.  If any glue gets on the laminate it usually cleans up by scraping it with a small piece of laminate.  From personal experience it is usually not worth the time and effort to relaminate an existing top; especially with the problems that may arise.......FWIW - jocobe

1. 
   user-33628 | Apr 26, 2002 12:59am | #4

   Jocobe,

   Your white glue solution was seconded by a couple of guys who've ventured into same territory I spoke with today. We tried it and it worked nicely. Another advantage is the white glue dries clear. Thanks for your input and I promise when the subject of relams comes up again the answer (even to nice old ladies) will be a resounding, No!

1. 
   HeavyDuty | Apr 26, 2002 03:37am | #5

   I found that solvent base contact cement holds up a lot better than water base cement, anybody has any comments?

   Tom

1. 
   KenHill3 | Apr 26, 2002 09:57pm | #6

   Tom-

   H20-based has sucked for me the few times I've tried to use it. Doesn't seem very agressive and delamination somewhere along the line seems to be a given. Perhaps the particular product (Weldwood water-based) was the cause for failure?

   Ken Hill

1. 
   HeavyDuty | Apr 27, 2002 05:05am | #7

   The only experience I had was with Lepage's Pres-tite Green contact cement, it says professional quality and solvent free. I'll stick with solvent base.

2. 
   calvin | Apr 27, 2002 01:26pm | #8

   I've used the water based from hybond and am satisfied with the results.  Using it is a bit diff than solvent based, I've found it un-rollable.  Usually squeegee it around, brush the edges.  Double coating edgeband seems a must.  Never had a delam except when I used weld-bond I believe it was.  __________________________________________

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    

    

3. 
   jimblodgett | Apr 27, 2002 04:16pm | #9

   I've had real good luck with 3M water based contact cement, but only on a clean substrate of plywood, particle board, or raw wood. Rolls just fine. It's more expensive per gallon, but I think a gallon goes a lot farther than solvent based, and you aren't emmitting all those toxins when you use it.

   The problems I've had with it are when I try to glue plam backsplash directly to painted wall, or going over existing plam. I still always use solvent based for those applications.

   A couple years ago I tried one of those pressurized systems. You know, the cement is in a pressurized tank, like a small propane tank, with a hose and spray gun attached? You talk about the cat's pajammas. Holy smokes, man. You spray this stuff on both surfaces and it's dry within a couple minutes - that's right, a couple minutes. And grab? I hope to shout this stuff grabs. You apply your plam, cut and file the edges, clean up any overspray and go home. No clean up, no muss, no fuss. Doesn't smell bad, but it has some methal keytones in it that are heavier than air so they sink to the floor. Toxic as hell.

   Edited 4/27/2002 9:19:26 AM ET by jim blodgett

4. 
   RJT | Apr 28, 2002 07:28am | #10

   In our shop we use an epoxy. This is only available in industry to my knowledge but perhaps any epoxy would work. the stuff we use comes in a special caulk gun and the nozzle has a spiral in it that mixes the stuff. It is the same goo that they use to hold helicopter panels together. ask a commercial shop in your area.