Replies

1. 
   dIrishInMe | Dec 20, 2004 11:32pm | #1

   In your case the poly may be a good idea to reduce air infiltration, but if you do you need to install insulation that does not have a vapor barrier - ie - 2 vapor barriers are bad.  Unfaced R-15 is your best bet if you are using fiberglass.  This method of insulation (poly and unfaced batts) used to be very prevalent here in NC, however with all the mold scares it has lost some popularity, although some people still do it.  Your climate may be different.   

   As far as heat loss, remember that air leaks are your main enemy - much more so than thermal transfer.  By making an air barrier out of your drywall by sealing around outlets, ceiling lights, plumbing penetrations, windows, ext doors, etc you will do the most good toward keeping the cold winter drafts out.

   Matt
1. 
   Randy2 | Dec 21, 2004 12:02am | #2

   I am using paper batts.   That would not be a problem would it.

1. 
   masterofnon1 | Dec 21, 2004 12:06am | #3

   Yes, that gives you two vapor barriers.  The plastic and the paper.  Mositure can get traped between the two.

1. 
   Randy2 | Dec 21, 2004 12:25am | #4

   Thanks. 

2. 
   WayneL5 | Dec 21, 2004 01:19am | #5

   All the above answers are right on the money.  They all assume you are in a northern, cold climate.  In a southern, humid climate with an air conditioned building you don't but any vapor barrier on the inside.  It goes on the outside.

   The same applies to the ceiling, too.

3. 
   marq9 | Apr 18, 2016 07:46pm | #6

   Reconstruction on home with sheeting

   I had a question related to this question, which is why I'm replying here:

   I have a house that actually has plastic sheeting under the sheetrock; the bottom 2 feet were cut  after my house was flooded by a washing machine.

   What is the right way to put sheetrock on these bottom 2 feet? Should I use plastic sheeting? Is it ok that there's a gap between the old plastic sheeting & the new one?

   Thanks,

   Marcos

4. 
   renosteinke | Apr 18, 2016 11:20pm | #7

   Deja Vu- all over again!

   It's a BASEMENT. If it flooded once, it WILL flood again.

   I see little need to insulate the bottom 24" at all; at that point you have several feet of earth insulating you. If you feel you must insulate, insulate this lower area with something that water won't harm - like foam board.

   Likewise, cover the area with waterproof tile backer board, rather than drywall. Once you tape the seams, no one will know.

   Leave a gap at the bottom - your flooring's cove base will conceal this gap - for any water in the wall to exit onto the floor.

   xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

   As for the laundry room ... the laundry feels drafty because it's leaking heat, not air. A cold section of wall, window, or door will cause enormous drafts.

   The solution is to find the cold spots and cover them. Foamboard over the door, plastic film over the window, and rubber mats on the floor itself can make a huge difference.

   Air leaks? Worry about the ceiling there! Areas around lights and cabinets often leak into attics.