i’m building a deck with ipe (for myself) and like the idea of drilling and plugging with a constrasting wood as an element of design rather than using an “underneath” fastening system.
are there any issues with using differing density woods as plugs with ipe? will they shrink over time more and leave gaps?
are there any special glues that work best with ipe?
thanks in advance
Listeners write in about removing masonry chimneys and ask about blocked ridge vents, deal-breakers with fixer-uppers, and flashing ledgers that are spaced from the wall.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
I've not worked with Ipe, myself. But, it would seem like getting a plug cutter and cuttign the plugs from scrap Ipe would be best overall (if tough on the plug cutter bits).
An exterior-grade glue would probably "do."
capn'we gettin' to be friends here?
thanks for the reply, my intent in using a different wood was to make something of the contrast.....i just don't like the idea of using the undermount strips and if i'm going to use plugs then i can either "show" them off or not.....just a preference i suppose though i'm sure you're right in saying my concerns about shrinking would be largely alleviated using the same wood.thanks as always for your input
these, http://www.millerdowel.com/products/exterior.html might interest you
I've used the interior with satisfaction but can't vouch for the exterior.
These being dowels are end grain and the ipe dowels would contrast subtlety.
that's great thanks.....simplifies the "plug cutter" issue.hey,....any problems with dissimmilar woods moving differently? i know with marquetry, any issues related to this are alleviated due to "thinness" of veneer but ain't this a whole nother kettle of fish.
Until you actually have this wood it's difficult to believe how hard it is. My suggestion is to glue and screw from the bottom.
Forget the naysayers. I have face screwed and plugged Ipe.
Get a couple good forstner bits for the holes holes to be plugged, then predrill for screws after that (I would seriously consider doing this all on sawhorses before the pieces are down if that is a possibility with your layout.
Here is the key: you want a tapered plug cutter. A little dab of PL Premium and then tap in whatever plugs you want to use and chisel them off flush. Ipe is stable...so you'll want to use another stable wood that won't rot. Cypress might be a good fit and a good contrast.
thanks jesse!
I only use ipe now for the floor of my decks, and screw n plug it. Hands down it has to be the best way to secure the decking. Takes a little longer I guess but you can’t beat the finished result!Here are some pics of us screwin off! You’ll probably need to register in order to view the album. http://www2.snapfish.com/thumbnailshare/AlbumID=26909425/a=30548722/t_=30548722
Let me know if this link works now OK?, it’s an old album I haven’t visited in awhile.The best bits, I think, have the countersinking part similar to the DeWalts in these pics (I get a similar type at my Tool Store). I buy the countersink part separately, then also buy Pilot Point (Bullet Point) bits for the pilot hole part. Tapered bits (like the DeWalts have) for the pilots often grab in ipe, Pilot points go in pretty easy. You need to do a two step drilling, backing out the bit one time to clear it. For the drilling we use a corded drill, and for the screwin we use impacts or just regular cordless drills.I order the plugs from East Teak http://www.eastteak.com/ I don’t think they’re actually listed on their site so you’ll probably have to ask for them. I usually order a few thousand at a time.Titebond III works very well, and we use a glue tip applicator to make sure the glue gets applied to the sides of the holes. Just keep a scrap of wet towel around the tip as you’re pluggin otherwise the glue can harden up in the tip on you.We used to chisel off the excess part of the plug first, but now we use a small belt sander one handed first (don’t sand the decking yet!) and knock off most of the plug, then come back with a 6” random orbit and 60 grit when we finish sand the entire floor surface, just before sealing.As we’re laying the decking we just spot screw each board to hold it in place, then come back and screw off the whole deck in one go.Have fun screwing off now!
heck, meant that to be addressed to All ..
i really appreciate your advice thanks,though i'm a little uncomfortable with the "screw off"
tee hee
I made 3/8" ipe plugs for my deck and glued them in with Titebond II. Started off with Gorilla Glue but the foaming action pushed half the plugs out. Use a tapered plug cutter and a drill press.
With a plug there could hardly be differential wood movement issues. Use whatever wood you want as long as it's rot resistant.
Be aware that if/when you start sanding the plugs flush you will brighten up the decking and remove mill marks, and you'll start needing to sand the whole thing to make it look uniform. It will require a lot of sanding belts.
i'm going to use joe's idea about using a chisel to slice 'em off.
thanks for the tip