I’ve got a kitchen cab arrangement in which I cannot do the DW adjacent the sinkbase cab.
The nearest I want to be with the DW is just around an adjacent corner. See the pic here for illustration. A 1″ O.D. line is shown routing behind and around to come into the sinkbase cab where the plumbing drain will be.
Will it be OK to plumb the drain for the DW around the back of the adjacent blind corner cab as shown? If so, what should we figure for the O.D. of the drain line? We can make the corner blind cab any way we want.
We build kitchens with the basecabs sitting on adjustable legs, the toeboards clipped to the front legs, and can use the toekick space for routing stuff. For this, we are figuring that the supply water can run in that chase. Sound OK?
OR . . . ! Is this drain phobia even necessary? This job is in NY, where a clipped up loop will suffice for an air gap. Maybe we just simply route that drain right in the toekick space over to the back quarter of the side of the sinkbase, and call it a day?
Edited 9/19/2007 1:20 pm ET by Gene_Davis
Replies
I have mine plumbed exactly the way you have it shown. I just used the drain hose thats attached to the DW, then hose clamped a barbed fitting into it, and used a length of black rubber hose from Depot that is sold as "Dishwasher Drain Hose" to continue to the Garbage disposal. I think it's 5/8", but I'm not exactly sure. The only thing I recommend is attaching the hose to the cabinet firmly with some type of clamps. I used conduit clamps. Before I did this, the corrugated plastic hose that is attached to the DW would vibrate on the inside of the cabinet and woud really annoy me.
Thanks for your quick response. While you were posting, I popped a little edit into my original post. Will you please comment on the idea of simply running it right in the toespace chase and into the back quarter of the side of the sinkbase? If that'll work, we don't need to build a shortback blind.
I don't see any problems with it as long as you give it the. recommended height for the air gap. Seems like a more direct route. Maybe put it in some pipe insulation to keep it from rattling behind the toe kick.
Go with the kick. some plumber will thank you in the future.
Mine also is exactly as you have here. I used the normal drain hose to the center bowl disposal in the sink.
Never a problem in 11 years
Forrest
I plumbed mine with the drain hose going down into the crawlspace then back up into the sink drain. Going through the floor into the crawl was easier then routing into the kick, though probably not code-worthy, but I don't know what the problems would be.....
It works splendidly.
I would drop it in the toe kick and then, if the DW doesn't allready have the drain hose configured for an airgap, pull it up inside the sink cabinet to provide one.
You may want to check some specs to insure the drain length does not exceed manufacturers suggestions.
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I work in NJ. I had to replace a dishwasher a few years ago that was located "around the corner" like yours. The drain line there was run under the cabinets, though not "right behind the kickplate." The line came up into the sink base, ran up to the top, had a loop there, and then down a bit and over to the sink drain connection. I can't remember for sure, but I think it was 3/8" or 1/2" copper with clamp-on hose transitions at the dishwasher and in the sink base. No reason why hose run all the way wouldn't work, though.
I also don't remember whether or not it had the standard hose loop at the dishwasher, but I would bet it did. I think I would remember if it didn't. When I got done, it had that loop, though.
As I recall, there was no way to run new supply or drain lines without major work. I had to re-use the old stuff and hope it held. Last I heard, it was still holding up.
I would run down low in the toe kick space.
Remove the factory flexible hose & replace with 5/8" ID rubber hose----- Hidden joints can be your worst nightmare in the future.
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