Has anyone used Plumbing Epoxy Putty for sealing a leak?
I have a leak in a shower control value where is it exits the copper pipe that goes to the shower head. This is a thread connection and can’t be tightened. If I block off the shower head and test it a full pressure I get a very small leak. Since there will be less pressure on the connection when the shower head is used I was wondering if the would seal the leak.
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Replies
I've actually used "form-a-gasket" for this kind of leak. I thought that it shold hold under the lower pressure of the water and so far so good (2 years).
Disclaimer: just cause it worked for me doesn't mean it will work for you.
Regards,
Roger
Yes, it will hold if you make sure it's totally dry when you apply it. Once it's on there and hardened though, there's no fixing it the right way. You have to replace it.
I used some on a hot water heat connection to a radiator. So far, it has worked for only 10 years.
Remember that surface preparation is critical for glues, so get all the water out and clean the area real well. Also, epoxy is happiest with something to grab onto, so wrap the epoxy all the way around the pipe, or all around the joint, so it can join onto itself and the pipe.
Good luck.
Sometimes little leaks become bigger leaks. How did you find the leak to begin with?
I have had bad results from Plumbing epoxies or other quick fixes at threaded connection leaks. The leak can be fixed by tightening, but requires more work than putting on a coat of epoxy.
You said that the line to the shower was cooper, then cut this line about a foot above the union. Use new teflon tape or pipe dope on the threads and tighten for a permanent fix. Then sweat and splice the seam that you cut. You will have to shorten the pipe slightly and slide on the splice before reassembling. insulate the valve and threaded area with a wet towel so the heat doesn't ruin what you fixed.
Thank you for your reply. The problem is that I only have about 5 inch opening to work with and the stud is in the middle of the control valve and shower pipe goes right next to the stud. And I only have about and 1 ½ inches to work with before it is behind the plastic wall enclosure. I would be afraid to heat on the connections where Teflon tape has been used. I think my only other solution is to use PEX pipe and snake it up the wall and use push connections because I don’t think I could get the crimping tool in the confined space.
PEX will have some plaster repair were the shower line does the elbow This should be fastened or blocked to the stud. I would concentrate on the end with the leak.
I haven't used the "shark Bite" that was mentioned earlier but sounds like a good alternative to heat and sweating. I would open up the plumbing access area to do the work. Never know when you might need the access again. All depends if it's in site or hidden in a closet.
Can't picture your conditions. But here are a couple of thoughts.First you can get special wrenches for plumbing that can get tight places. They are basically box end wrenches with a slot cut in the "box".So you can slip them over the tubing and engage the fitting where you don't have room for an open end wrench.The other idea is to just cut the stud out. Make the repair and the Put it back along with a sister to hold it in place..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Hammer has the right idea, but I can make it just a little easier:
Home Depot sells a copper.pex/CPVC fitting series called "Sharkbite". There is one fitting that ONLY works with copper. It's about 3" long. You cut a pipe, slip this on one end, then rejoin them by pulling the fitting back down again.
No tools needed other than a saw to cut the pipe. No heating or crimping required.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
The shower head will unscrew from the ell. Remove it , unscrew the riser pipe and install teflon tape on the threads. Reinstall the riser, the shower head and test it for leaks.Alternately, the copper riser can be cut . Then you can tighten the threaded joint.You can then join the two pieces with a regular or slip coupling.Take a couple of pieces of 1/4" cement board,aka hardy board and install where the heat from the torch will be. Then you can safely sweat the joint.Not familiar with the shark fitting,sounds like a good alternative though.
mike