Replies

1. 
   DanH | Sep 02, 2009 11:20pm | #1

   Well, if you live in Texas, a couple of sheets of newspaper will probably work. If you live in Alaska, you'll likely need 6" of foam. Can't tell which because you didn't tell us where you live and didn't fill in your profile.

   As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
2. 
   shelternerd | Sep 02, 2009 11:25pm | #2

   So long as the valve is in an inside wall you will only have pressurized water when the shower is running. Just use a tub and shower set with the tubfiller set low as a foot washer so when you turn the valve off it drains back through the lower fitting.

   No prob, we do this for outdoor showers all the time. water never stays in any pipes but those that supply the valve which can be set deep and foamed.

   ------------------

   "You cannot work hard enough to make up for a sloppy estimate."

3. 
   rdesigns | Sep 02, 2009 11:50pm | #3

   For the stud cavity that contains the valve, fill it in against the outside wall sheathing with 2" high-density foam fitted tightly between the studs from top to bottom. Then go back and caulk or foam ALL the joints and seams. What you're aiming for is a completely airtight stud cavity.

   Have NO insulation of any kind on the front side of the pipes or valve. Insulation can work against you if it isolates the pipes from the heated side.

   This solution works without fail in our climate, which can see temps of 25 to 30 below zero, and 30-40 mph winds along with it.

   If you need greater protection, consider doubling the outside wall if you can spare the room inside the shower. The outer wall would have no plumbing, and be fully insulated and sealed from the inner one. The inner one that contains the plumbing would have no insulation.