New house construction. It has several interior pocket doors. I plan on using Johnson Hardware’s 1560SC pocket door frame kit because I have had success with their pocket door tracks and rollers, which I used in a previous house to replace the cheap pocket door hardware it came with. I have never used their frames.
All of the pocket door frames will be in 2×6 walls.
I only have experience with the cheap pocket door frames that have horizontal 1×4’s on the outside of the pocket for attaching drywall, and fastening the frame to a perpendicular wall when called for.
Johnson’s frame use what they call “steel split studs” on the outside of the pocket. They are vertical instead of horizontal. The studs look like they are 3″ wide, maybe less.
My question… a couple of my doors have walls running perpendicular to the pocket door wall, and these walls die into the pocket area. With the cheap frames with horizontal 1×4’s, I could attach the perpendicular wall into the side of the pocket door frame by nailing thru the 1×4’s into the perpendicular wall. I could also attach drywall on both side of the pocket area where the perpendicular wall intersected it using the horizontal 1×4’s. How can the same thing be accomplished with a vertical steel stud?
I haven’t found any Johnson installation instructions or videos that address this.
Thanks,
Ira
Replies
If I am understanding the question, take a 1x8 or 10 and add it to your pocket wall. Some sort of clip or angle at the floor and top plate. Might be able to use a thicker backer depending on wiring etc. Lath catcher as well as securing your abutting wall. The top plates will of course be crossed and secured.
Johnson has clips for attaching plywood between the vertical studs.
https://johnsonhardware.com/1515-ply-pocket-door-frame-plywood-clip-set
I had actually called Johnson support this morning to find out what the recommended. The 1515 plywood clips are their preferred solution.
Thanks.
The Johnson pocket door hardware is designed to go into a 2x4 wall. With your 2x6 walls you can use flatwise 2x to frame the sides and leave off the metal studs. I have set a few frames now, but I haven't had the privilege yet to put a pocket into a 2x6. Just rip down your shoe plate, you don't need to match Johnson' shoeless stud attachment
My suggestion if you had to build it 2x4 with an intersecting is to borrow a trick from the commercial guys. Rock the pocket wall fully then install the intersecting wall. Commercial guys run drywall on their first wall then set their lead metal stud up against the rock. Their bottom track is short of the first walls bottom track, the top track is gapped also
Have fun
The Johnson 1560SC frame is specifically for a 2x6 wall.