FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Pocket door header in main load bearing

gtownwillie | Posted in Construction Techniques on February 5, 2007 08:01am

 

Hi folks,  I find that I need some help on my latest project.  I’m a old hand handy-man,  jack of all trades/ master of none.  My current home improvement project is curing a dead-end living room by installing a pair of two foot wide pocket doors in the load bearing wall going to the family room.  This is a two story house and the wall in question is the backbone of the first floor, sits on a concret slab foundation and supports the 14′ ft floor joists of the second floor.  The pocket door header needs to be just shy of nine feet long.  The big question is will a standard doubled 2 x 12 yellow pine header sufficient for the load or should I make a Finch plate with a half inch steel sandwich between the 2 x 12’s?       Thanks in advance for your inputs.     Gtown willie

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. Kgmz | Feb 05, 2007 08:55am | #1

    I am assuming that this house is 28' deep, has a wall exactly in the center with 14' floor joists and does not have a load bearing wall above supporting the roof. And figuring a 50 lb. load per sq ft.(40 live 10 dead), and a wall opening for the doors at 8 to 9 ft.

    You will need a load capacity of at least 700 lbs per foot of beam span.

    A beam made with double yellow pine #2 2x12's with a 1/4" flitch plate will do this and support 750 lbs per foot of beam. The beam is bolted together with 1/2" bolts space 10" apart along the top edge 2" down, and double spaced along the bottom 2" up, with 2 bolts at the ends.

    With a 5/16" flitch plate will support 870 lbs per foot.

    With a 3/8" flitch plate will support 980 lbs per foot.

    With a 7/16" flitch plate will support 1100 lbs per foot.

    I would definitely go with a bigger plate than minimum just to be on the safe side.

     

    Also these specs are from the NAHB beam manual

    1. gtownwillie | Feb 05, 2007 05:11pm | #4

      Thanks for the really good detail onthe fitch plate and capacities.   Apparently I left out of my original message that this is a two story house and there is a second story wall directly above.  The second story wall supports the inside ends of the second floor ceiling joists but does not have direct support of the free span attic roof.  Roof is straight rafters placing load on exterior walls.  Does this change your recommendation?  Thanks,    Gtown willie

       

  2. BillBrennen | Feb 05, 2007 12:59pm | #2

    Why not just use LVL's instead? The flitch plate is strong, but a pain to do. All the bolts are going to need to be countersunk on two sides, but the LVL's are just nailed together.

    You can also use a single 3-1/2" wide PSL for more strength, less nailing.

    Bill

    1. gtownwillie | Feb 05, 2007 05:19pm | #5

      Thanks for the response.  Help me out.  I know what an LVL is but if I knew what a PSL is that knowledge has gone on vacation.  Care to spell it out for me?  You where right to assume that I'm trying to keep this in the existing 3.5" framing.   Gtownwillie

      1. JohnT8 | Feb 05, 2007 05:35pm | #6

        if I knew what a PSL is that knowledge has gone on vacation

        Parallel Strand Lumber.  Like plywood, except in beam form.

         jt8

        "One of the fondest expressions around is that we can't be the world's policeman. But guess who gets called when suddenly someone needs a cop." -- Colin Powell

        1. woodguy99 | Feb 05, 2007 06:03pm | #8

          Actually PSL is more like toothpicks glued together.  LVL's are more like plywood, except all the veneers are oriented in the same direction.

      2. BillBrennen | Feb 06, 2007 05:59am | #11

        PSL is, like another poster said, like toothpicks glued into a mass, all going the same direction. Parrallam is the most common brand name. It is very heavy (for wood) hard, and stronger than LVL's. It looks kind of cool, like some exotic species or something.Bill

      3. Framer | Feb 06, 2007 06:07am | #12

        Here's a link for you.http://www.trusjoist.com/PDFFiles/1048.pdfJoe Carola

  3. Piffin | Feb 05, 2007 12:59pm | #3

    The header would be 8'10" but the clear span it covers is only 8'4".

    I would skip using flitch and use a double LVL. Much easier to work with

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

  4. RalphWicklund | Feb 05, 2007 06:02pm | #7

    Most structures with an interior bearing wall have an additional footer poured along that wall in addition to the slab on top. Also usually a monolithic pour.

    Do you know if that is the case with your home?

    It's rather important since you are now contemplating taking an evenly distributed floor/footing load and moving to two more or less point loads at the ends of your header. Although it might work out, I wouldn't have that weight supported by just a section of 4" slab.

  5. panchovilla | Feb 05, 2007 08:51pm | #9

    As others have essentially indicated, the first step is calc. the loads:

    Second level:
    LL=30 psf (sleeping areas per International Residential Code)
    DL=15 psf (a touch higher than suggested by Kgmz)
    TL=30 + 15 =45 psf.

    Bearing wall above @ 8 sf:
    8 psf x 8’(height) = 64 #/ft

    Attic load: (20 psf)
    TL=20 + 10 = 30 psf

    Combined loads:
    Floor + Attic + Wall =
    (45psf x 14’) + (30psft x 14’) + 64 #/ft =
    630 + 420 +64 = 1114 #/ft = 1.11 k/ft (1k=1000#)

    Beam moment where:
    W= 1114 #/ft
    L=9’
    M= WL^2/8
    M=1.11K/ft x (81 ft^2)/8=11.24 k-ft

    Section Modulus:
    Fb= 1250 psi (Southern pine, No. 1)
    S=M/Fb = 11240 #-ft x 12”/ft /1250 = 107.9 in^3
    Or
    b= beam width; d= beam depth
    S= bd^2/6
    Set b =3.5” (2-2x + ½” plywd spacer)
    Solve for d:
    d^2= 6 x 107.9 /3.5 = 185
    d= 13.6” (required depth)

    Although this does not negate the use of LVL as others have suggested, assuming you are inclined to use conventional lumber, this would work:

    Provide temp support ea side. Create opening 12’ long.
    Cut out ceiling one side to provide access to top of top plate
    Remove bottom plate of exist. top plate (assuming double top plate).
    Construct beam:
    2-2x12 w/ ½” plywd spacer.
    1-2x4 bottom -Glue and screw (2-1/2” deck screws @ 4” oc staggered). Suggest pre-drilling 2x4’s.
    Place adhesive on top edge to bond to existing now single top plate. Likewise screw exist top plate to beam.
    This sets bottom of opening at 81.5” +/- and beam depth at 14.5”
    Use 12’ length centered over 9’ opening. Install 2x4 studs 12” oc ea. Side of 9’ opening. This will spread load out over slab.
    Good luck.

    1. semar | Feb 06, 2007 03:05am | #10

      Very good

      but the footing mon, the footing!!! where is all the pointload resting on?? 4" slab?maybe little sand subsoil?

  6. IdahoDon | Feb 06, 2007 06:30am | #13

    Is the wall 2x4 or 2x6?  If it's 2x6 simply frame the pocket with  full height studs (turned sideways) and it can be load bearing except for the opening, which would then be quite easy to span.

    Of course if there is plenty of room for deeper LVLs then I'm usually a fan of more wood vs. less.

    Good building

     

    Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.

  7. User avater
    MikeMicalizzi | Feb 06, 2007 01:54pm | #14

    I would use two 14 inch LVL's and double my jack studs

     

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Podcast Episode 689: Basement Garages, Compact ERVs, and Safer Paint Stripper

Listeners write in about ventilation and radon control and ask questions about tightening basement garages, ventilation solutions, and safer paint stripper.

Featured Video

Micro-Adjust Deck-Baluster Spacing for an Eye-Deceiving Layout

No math, no measuring—just a simple jig made from an elastic band is all you need to lay out a good-looking deck railing.

Related Stories

  • Design and Build a Pergola
  • Podcast Episode 689: Basement Garages, Compact ERVs, and Safer Paint Stripper
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Are Single-Room ERVs the Answer?
  • Fire-Resistant Landscaping and Home Design Details

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data