Replies

1. 
   rez | Dec 20, 2008 06:12am | #1

   Greetings o,

   This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again which will increase it's viewing.

   Perhaps it will catch someone's attention that can help you with advice.

   Cheers

    

    

    

    

    

    

   94969.19  In the beginning there was Breaktime...

1. 
   skipj | Dec 20, 2008 11:19am | #2

   sorry for you

    

1. 
   rez | Dec 20, 2008 09:36pm | #5

   ? 

    

    

    

    

   94969.19  In the beginning there was Breaktime...

1. 
   ruffmike | Dec 22, 2008 09:00am | #10

   Did you bump your head? ; ^ )                            Mike

       Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.

2. 
   loucarabasi | Dec 20, 2008 01:09pm | #3

   I do know its  4-1/2 inches plus door height.

   Lou

   As the twig bends- So grows the tree!!

   
   

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   Edited 12/20/2008 5:24 am ET by loucarabasi

3. 
   Shep | Dec 20, 2008 03:51pm | #4

   You usually have to tack the head piece to the rough framing, so once that's done, add the thickness of your head jamb, measure both the pocket frame and the prehung jamb legs, and cut whichever one you have to.

   Don't forget to make the track of the pocket door absolutely level. You'll go crazy making the door work if its not.

4. 
   popawheelie | Dec 20, 2008 10:18pm | #6

   The way i would make sure is to have both of them in hand and do a mockup.

   Just to make sure. It takes all the guess work out of it.

5. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Dec 21, 2008 06:48am | #7

   Not a carpenter but here goes:

   Generally speaking you have to work at it because given equal height doors, the casing on the pocket door wants to be in a different place (a bit lower) because of the way the pocket door sits relative to the head.

   R.F. Johnson makes some of the most reliable pocket door hardware - here is a detail from their instructions for jobsite-hung pocket doors:

   View Image

   Note the relationship between the casing (dashed lines) and the top of the door - not *exactly* the same as a swing door.   However, you can probably come very close by moving the casing up a little and using a pair of applied stops (like colonial stop - or square edged stop depending on your interior style) that drop down within the door opening and then down the face of the 'strike' jamb to receive the door and provide additional privacy.

   Hope that made sense -

    

   Jeff

   
   

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   Edited 12/20/2008 10:53 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke

1. 
   Snort | Dec 22, 2008 12:19am | #8

   I think that's the 1500 series, I'd think about the 2000 for 8/0 doors.And to the OP, download specs, measure your pre-hungs, draw it out, and hope you don't have to add anything to the pocket door!http://www.tvwsolar.com

   Now you see this one-eyed midget

   Shouting the word "NOW"

   And you say, "For what reason?"

   And he says, "How?"

   And you say, "What does this mean?"

   And he screams back, "You're a cow

   Give me some milk

   Or else go home"

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Dec 22, 2008 04:36am | #9

   1500 good to 108" tall (difference with 2000 is weight cap.)  but never hurts to trade up ;o)

   By the way, Baldwin is one of the few companies making decent pocket door pull/latch/lock hardware.

   Jeff

   Edited 12/21/2008 8:37 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke

1. 
   Snort | Dec 22, 2008 04:36pm | #11

   I use the 2000 on an 8/0 door just for principle... and recommend them for 6/8 solid cores... the I beam track just has so much less slop.Jeeze, that Baldwin site must use the mzinga search engine... never could find a latching set. Ives, I think, makes a nice pop out latch that works well, but for how long...?http://www.tvwsolar.com

   Now you see this one-eyed midget

   Shouting the word "NOW"

   And you say, "For what reason?"

   And he says, "How?"

   And you say, "What does this mean?"

   And he screams back, "You're a cow

   Give me some milk

   Or else go home"