Code in my area dictates the pocket door header span will require an additional king stud on each side, even though it’s non load-bearing wall.

If the pocket door frame is perpendicularly up against an (external finished) side wall, then the added king stud seems to mean the door itself will end up being further away from the side wall–by about the width of the extra stud) .

It’s my understanding a header hanger could be used if the additional stud was a jack stud, but not a king stud.

If one of the (several) intents of using the pocket door was to save a couple inches relative to a larger regular door, then the additional king stud in the corner seems to effectively defeat that intent relative to a wider standard door. 

Is there something wrong with this reasoning? Is there a simple workaround that doesn’t require significant modifications to material/labor/engineering/risk, other than the normal implications of using pocket doors? 

Please don’t provide dialogue about the various pros and cons of pocket doors–which are well documented. And I don’t have a picture because there is nothing there yet, as I don’t want to proceed until I have a plan in place. Or switch to a larger standard door if necessary. 

But definitely correct me if there are any holes in the stud logic, or advise me of any low-cost alternatives. Thanks in advance. 

Edit: Or is this as simple as adding the additional king stud, but then eliminating the jack stud altogether and using a header hanger, leading to the same distance from the door to the sidewall with the pocket door relative to a standard door? Would be great to find out it’s that simple!