FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

pocket door removal

LIVEONSAWDUST | Posted in Construction Techniques on March 21, 2009 08:05am

This is a hollow core flush pocket door in a 60’s ranch, aluminum track, plastic rollers. carpet was installed later so the door hangs up on the carpet. How do I remove the door so that I can trim the bottom?

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. BoJangles | Mar 21, 2009 08:10pm | #1

    First look up on the door hangars and see if you can adjust them upward.  Most of them have some kind of adjustment.  Look closely!

  2. User avater
    Heck | Mar 21, 2009 10:10pm | #2

    You may have to remove the trim and jambs to get the door out.

      

    when you are up to yur knees in gators, make gatorade     

  3. User avater
    jonblakemore | Mar 21, 2009 10:21pm | #3

    I would attempt to trim in place with a biscuit joiner.

     

    Jon Blakemore

    RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA

  4. WayneL5 | Mar 21, 2009 10:56pm | #4

    Usually, the trim on one side of the opening has to come off, then the door can be unclipped from the roller trolleys by a camlock lever.

  5. User avater
    Dinosaur | Mar 22, 2009 12:10am | #5

    Some newer pocket-door hardware sets use cam-lock pins for the trolley hanger. These can be released with a small wrench that is usually supplied with the hardware. (Others of this type have a lever built into the mechanism.)

    The procedure is to remove the head casing, then release the leading hanger pin with the door in the open position. Once you've done that, you can then pivot the door out of plane so you can pull the trailing trolley into the opening where you can get at it.

    In general, this type of hanger only requires a ¼" drop to release the door. You may be able to crush the carpet enough to get the door out.

    Older hardware sets, however, have hanger pins which are often just threaded rod with a couple of nuts on them. To release the door on those, you'll also have to pop the head casing to get at them, but they can require up to an inch of drop space before the pin can be pulled out of the trolley. If you can't lower the door enough, you'll have to remove the split jamb on one face of the wall and cut back the gyprock enough to clear the door when it's in the closed position. Then you can tilt the whole door out of plane so it can be disengaged and removed.

    Or, you could try to cut the hanger pins with a hacksaw or Dremel, then remove the old hardware and replace it with the newer type.

    Dinosaur

    How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
    low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
    foolish men call Justice....

  6. Dave45 | Mar 22, 2009 12:39am | #6

    There should be either four or six pieces of trim approx 1" wide and 1/4" thick on the jambs close to the door. (It's called "stop" and looks like what you see on a swinging door.) You'll definitely have stop on the pocket jamb and the head jamb but may not have it on the solid jamb.

    With the door open, look at the track and see if it looks like a single or double "J". If it looks like a single "J", carefully remove the piece of stop from the head jamb that's on the LONG side of the "J" and see if the roller assemblies have an adjustment screw or nut. If they do, you may be able to use them to raise the door enough to clear the carpet. If they don't (or if you can't adjust them), remove the rest of the stop on the side where you removed the head stop and swing the door so it can be lifted off of the track. With the door out, you can easily trim off whatever you need to.

    While you have the door out, inspect the track and see if you can get replacement roller assemblies. This is the perfect time to replace the rollers.

    Replace your door in the opposite order that you removed it, adjust the rollers so it clears the carpet and closes without a gap at the solid jamb, replace the stop, patch, paint, and call it good.

    1. LIVEONSAWDUST | Mar 22, 2009 12:55am | #7

      Thanks for all the replies

      It did not look like there was any adjustment in the rollers, I'll take a better look when I get back there next week.  Seems like my best bet may be to cut the hangers, remove enough trim to get the doors out and replace the hangers.

      Guess I'd better check what kind of replacement hangers they have at the hardware store ahead of time.

  7. hammerelbow1 | Mar 22, 2009 03:18am | #8

    Look at the head jamb and you should se 2-3 screws, sometimes with chrome washers or they are painted or sometimes they are counter sunk and then filled in with putty and usually on the room side of the door. Take these screws out and you may have to score the paint ,if painted, and remove this peice of head jamb. If the carpenter did his job right the casing should not be nailed to this peice. This is all you should have to remove to access the roller hangers. This is the way it's done around here.

    Wayne

    1. User avater
      Heck | Mar 22, 2009 04:53am | #9

      I'm guessing on a 60's ranch that there is not an easily removeable head jamb.  

      when you are up to yur knees in gators, make gatorade     

      1. Dave45 | Mar 22, 2009 05:02am | #10

        Last summer, I helped #2DD and #1 SIL replace a pocket door in their 50's era house. Their head jamb was continuous and the rollers were a kind that we couldn't find. Since they were going to a divided light, solid wood door, we opened the wall and replaced the entire track with a heavy duty trolley roller system.Before we did that, the door was very hard to move, but now it works like a fream.

        1. JulianTracy | Mar 22, 2009 06:04am | #11

          I've had no luck finding new rollers for the older single J rail style pocket doors.Most times the rollers are just worn out. Once, I found some shower door rollers with a threaded hole in them and drilled out the old roller plate and screwed the new roller to the plate with loctite.With paint grade, you should be able to simply remove a couple pcs of stop and then tilt the door up and out to fix it. The trim can be re-applied and with white doors at leaset, you can simply caulk your tracks of ever working on it.None of the older doors I've worked on have adjustable rollers - you have to shim or trim to get it to hang right.If you do need to replace the entire track, you can usually do it with a single large access hole in the drywall to access the track screws and install the new track.JT

          1. brucet9 | Mar 22, 2009 07:03am | #12

            "I've had no luck finding new rollers for the older single J rail style pocket doors."Have you looked here?
            http://www.prime-line-products.com/prodcats.aspPrimeline/Slideco has rollers for something like a dozen different styles of pocket door rollers. BruceT

          2. Dave45 | Mar 22, 2009 05:05pm | #13

            On a few occasions, I found roller assemblies that looked right but didn't work in the track - either because the track was shot, or the wheels were a slightly different size.The two wheel, rocker, assemblies at the Borg or hardware stores will often work ok, but don't seem to hold up on doors that get used often.I've gotten pretty good at opening a wall to replace a track. I cut a rectangle just big enough to work thru, replace the track, and replace the cut out drywall. A bit of tape and texture and the hole disappears.I've heard that there's a tool that lets you change track by working thru the pocket jamb. I haven't seen it and understand that it's pretty expensive ($300 - $400).

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

FHB Summit 2025 — Design, Build, Business

Join some of the most experienced and recognized building professionals for two days of presentations, panel discussions, networking, and more.

Featured Video

How to Install Exterior Window Trim

Learn how to measure, cut, and build window casing made of cellular PVC, solid wood, poly-ash boards, or any common molding material. Plus, get tips for a clean and solid installation.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 686: Brick Steps, Ground-Source Heat Pumps, and Greenhouses in Nova Scotia
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Efficient HVAC for a New Build
  • Affordable Scans, Accurate Plans
  • FHB Summit 2025 — Design, Build, Business

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers
  • Issue 327 - November 2024
    • Repairing Damaged Walls and Ceilings
    • Plumbing Protection
    • Talking Shop

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data