Replies

1. 
   betchacan | Jan 23, 2003 09:11pm | #1

   Unless you want something ugly hung on the outside of a wall or you have hollow walls, then yes you will have to do it "By hand" and crack open a wall. don`t forget jacks and headers in the rebuild.

1. 
   MPHarper | Jan 23, 2003 09:18pm | #2

   Thanks,

   The door will be in a new wall I'm building.  Will I need to build a 2x6 wall or will a pocket door fit into a 2x4 wall?

1. 
   betchacan | Jan 23, 2003 09:27pm | #3

   2x6 with studs on flat in the pocket

1. 
   MPHarper | Jan 23, 2003 09:30pm | #4

   Excellent, Thanks

2. 
   beasto | Jan 26, 2003 06:17pm | #25

   MP, settle down. Buy the pocket kit and read the instructions. I bet you'll laugh a month from now about how much anxiety you had about such an easy install. Just make sure you cut the top track to the right length. good luck. Beast

2. 
   roofdoc | Jan 23, 2003 09:36pm | #5

   Yes prehungs are available and set up to go into a standard framed wall  available at the big orange box

1. 
   MPHarper | Jan 23, 2003 09:40pm | #6

   Thanks Doc,

   Are they standard sized doors?

1. 
   sps | Jan 23, 2003 09:48pm | #7

   I must've put in a dozen pocket doors over the last 3 remodels ... used pocket door frame hardware kits manufactured by Johnson Hardware.  Supplied by our millwork vendor ... ran about $60 per kit (door slab extra) if I remember correctly.  Went together pretty well ... the only thing I didn't like about the Johnson kits is that they use steel clad 1x2 for the framing members (so it will fit inside a standard 2x4 wall).  The SC 1x2s were fine for hanging drywall (if you use 1" long screws), but it did cause a little head scratching when it came time to trim the doors.  We used 4" wide casing, and we had to apply adhesive to the back of the casing to get the outside edges to hold against the wall.

   You can check out the Johnson hardware kit at http://www.johnson-hardware.com.  Good luck!

1. 
   betchacan | Jan 23, 2003 10:04pm | #9

   I`ve put in those as well and I wouldn`t do it again. It feels cheap when you operate the door. Too much wiggle with those 1x2`s.

1. 
   sps | Jan 23, 2003 10:28pm | #10

   I haven't heard any compliants from clients re: wiggling during operation.  We use the "heavy duty" kit ... much better track and roller hardware.  But I agree, the 1x2's do make for "flimsy" framing behind the drywall.

   Next pocket door I have to install, I'm going to try the 2x6 wall and lay the 2x4's on the flat!

   Shawn @ Stolte Construction

2. 
   Remodeler | Jan 23, 2003 10:38pm | #11

   I like the Johnson kits, 2x6's make an awkwardly wide looking entry.  The kit will do from 24" (?) - 32" and can handle a 36" door for handicapped access.  to handle the flimsy issue I use 3/4" plywood as filler between the metal-sheathed studs.  All in all it is much easier than other means.  But the wall has to be torn out and reframed.

   remodeler

3. 
   Boxduh | Jan 23, 2003 10:56pm | #12

   I have used Johnson but will not use again.  I'll try the thick wall approach, with flattened 2x4s in TJM's "Timberstrand" makeup.  They are dead straight.  Since we will use them to frame the kitchen walls, we will get the few extra it will take to do the bath entry.  Question:  what track hardware is best?  I have no problem with the track in the Johnson kit, but can you get the track only?

4. 
   betchacan | Jan 24, 2003 12:09am | #13

   yep, Try one of the big box stores.

5. 
   JeffBuck | Jan 24, 2003 02:48am | #15

   "flimsy" walls are one thing.....gotta live with it if U use the kit....

   But "wiggle"...if U are talking about the door operation.....is poorly adjusted hardware....

   or poorly installed jamb stock. ......the split side.

   it can/should be installed as tight as the paint job will let....then...nice smooth action.

   JeffBuck Construction   Pittsburgh,PA

    Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite                  

2. 
   wwaficianado | Jan 24, 2003 03:26am | #17

   I usually use the Johnson pocket door kits also.  I like to plywood both sides of the pocket door frame and fir out he rest of the wall with 1/2 plywood strips to for a 4 1/2 inch wall.  It adds a lot of stabilty to the steel clad 1x2.  I also like to use an adhesive over the steel clad 1x2 before applying plywood.  I found this works pretty good.

2. 
   roofdoc | Jan 23, 2003 09:56pm | #8

   yes two sizes  mine was fully adjustable at the top

3. 
   cjeden | Jan 24, 2003 12:10am | #14

   I put in pocket doors when I remodeled my house--I love the funtion of having the open plan look but being able to close off areas if I want--we used 15 lite doors and ectched the glass (with the cheap spray on stuff--like I said cheap but pretty effective) so now when the doors are closed they let in light but allow for some privacy.

   Used the kits from HD they fit into a standard 2x4 space with metal 1x2 studs to create the pocket.

   The install went pretty easy however two things I learned.

   1. By the time the trim is on--those doors will not come out without a fight--so paint before you install (that might be a no brainer)

   2. On the bottom of the door rout a channel that a screw or pin can ride in--place pin in floor inside the pocket. This will keep the door from moving around when you pull it open--the kit you get may include the hardware for this--for me it's too late when I open my pocket doors there is alot of movemet in the depth dimension (that may not make sense).

   Anyway good luck

   cje

   Take what you want, leave the rest
4. 
   Bloodad | Jan 24, 2003 03:08am | #16

   Hey MPHARPER,

   You may find this article informative.  Good luck with the pocket door.  Take your time and make sure everything works smooth.  Then hang around and make sure the drywall guys don't run a screw into your opening.

   InTheCleftOfHisHand, ford

   
5. 
   MikeCallahan | Jan 24, 2003 04:05am | #18

   Make sure the rail at the header is dead nuts level. If not, when the door is installed then only one side can be adjusted to fit to the jamb. When the door is open then the reveal may be skewed if the rail is not level. Often I add extra screws to the rail to prevent sagging. It is too late to adjust the level of the rail after the drywall is installed. I usually install a facia piece with screws at the header to hide the rail that can be removed if necessary so you can remove the door for painting or maintainance.

   We may be slow, But we're expensive.
1. 
   r_ignacki | Jan 26, 2003 03:12am | #19

   dead nuts level.

   How about just dead level. Sounds like someone kicked ya in the nuts for not making something level when it you were supposed to.  ,<G.>

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Jan 26, 2003 03:19am | #20

   panama.. don'tchano... there's level.... and then there's dead nuts level...

   mebbe they do it differnt where you  r ....

   anyways i hear about it all the time... every time one of my guys is trying to get me to buy a 6' level....

   and i give him the olde chestnut about that's why jesus the carpenter invented plumb bobs... which were gud enuf until lasers came down the pikeMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   BarryE | Jan 26, 2003 03:27am | #21

   Hmmm, how's that working for ya, leveling with the plumbbob? <G>

   Turn that pocket door on it's side and plumb the headrail?

   Wanting to learn

   Barry

   View Image

   Barry E

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Jan 26, 2003 03:39am | #22

   barry , don't make me come over there...

   you know damn right well the only reason he wants a 6' level is for pluming doors..

   and we both know you buy a  6' level.. you gotta cut it down to 5'8" so it'll fit behind the seat of the truch so 's you can bend it in a nice bowMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   BarryE | Jan 26, 2003 04:29am | #23

   HaHa, Nope I wouldn't want ya to have to leave your easy chair on a cold saturday nite.

   Aw comeon, that nice new trailer of yours can handle a 6 footer.

   Hmm, come to think of it, I did have to cut a 6' level once.

   Have a good one

   View Image

   Barry E

2. 
   r_ignacki | Jan 26, 2003 06:52pm | #26

   nobodys dang nuts hang level, and furthermore, nobody's dang middle leg hangs straight, er, I mean plumb.

   edited for language, content, and television, er, cybervision.

   Edited 1/26/2003 10:54:15 AM ET by panama red

1. 
   Piffin | Jan 26, 2003 09:51pm | #27

   is this thread getting off level and taking ####warpped set?.

   Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   MikeCallahan | Jan 27, 2003 07:26am | #28

   Dead Nuts is just carpenter vernacular. It is a little better than perfect enough or just a shoche off and a lot better than f--- it, nail it. I guess I should talk in plain english for the amatuers. Maybe someday someone will explain what a RCH is to you. I bet your joints have a crack problem or worse, gapitosis.We may be slow, But we're expensive.

1. 
   r_ignacki | Jan 29, 2003 03:55am | #29

   we're not fussy about the color of C hairs, anyway, you should refrain from such language, in those occupied structures your fixing up, it's not good for pubic, er, I mean public relations.

   Then again, maybe it is.

6. 
   cybersportSS | Jan 26, 2003 07:36am | #24

   In the custom homes we build we always use at laest a 2x6 wall for pocket doors.  As for the studs instead of 2x4's on flat, which could warp just enough to rub the door, we use heavy gauge steel studs on flat, secured with 1 5/8" track top and bottom. Have to use self tapping screws for securing the studs and drywall, but in my opinion, best way to go.

   Alex

   Free advice is worth what you paid for it

7. 
   samrobey1995 | Mar 31, 2022 10:19am | #30

   Maybe something from https://www.ultraline.co.uk/ would work? You could always just weight your options. Hope you found what you're looking for!

   -Sam