Replies

1. 
   MikeSmith | Mar 18, 2005 02:50am | #1

   we use Lawrence.. trolley hangers. the doors hang from the track..

    we throw the studs away that come with the kit

   the only pocket door we build will be in a 2x6 wall so we can use flat 2x for our pocket studs

   Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
1. 
   Shoeman | Mar 18, 2005 02:53am | #2

   Thanks for the extemely quick response.

   I will do a search for Lawence and see if they are available around here.

   This will be in a six inch wall.  You use regulars studs?  I was thinking I wouldn't have to worry about any bowing if I went with steel.

1. 
   MikeSmith | Mar 18, 2005 02:58am | #3

   steel ?  as in steel studs ?   most of their strength is in the 3.5" direction.. the 1.25"  direction is pretty whippy

   we frame our pocket with  flat 2x4 wood studs.. kd..  we use a plywood shoe and plateMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   Shoeman | Mar 18, 2005 03:05am | #4

   I was thinking steel studs back to back to make a box - probably overkill - was just a thought

   Think I will do fine with 2x4s on the flat

   Thanks again

2. 
   scottbr | Mar 31, 2005 10:42pm | #17

   Mike, I will be building a pocket door myself very shortly.   Local Lumber yard suggested 2x6 wall as well.   The plyood shoe and plate, is this the full 5 1/2" width or just 1 1/2" ?

   Thanks, Scott

1. 
   MikeSmith | Mar 31, 2005 11:40pm | #18

   the full width of the framing  ( 1 1/2  +  POCKET + 1 1/2 )...

   i think this is 5 1/2"... but make sure .. see what your hardware wants for their pocket widthMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   scottbr | Apr 01, 2005 01:54pm | #19

   That's great.  Thanks Mike.

   He reccomended a heavy duty track, must be one of the ones suggested above.  I'll check into it further before doing the framing.

   Scott

2. 
   gdcarpenter | Mar 31, 2005 12:41am | #16

   Just a thought.  I too build in 2x6 walls with 2x4's on the flat.  Been thinking next time, instead of throwing away those steel channels the kit comes with, screw them sideways to the side of the 2x4 on the flat, aught to stiffen it up.Let's not confuse the issue with facts!

1. 
   TimLoupe | Apr 01, 2005 03:57pm | #20

   We have been using ripped microlambs , or timberstrand for our studs. Here in Colorado we have to be concerned about warpage because the humidity is so low. Our 2x6's end up about 5 1/4 wide and when you try to shoot a toenail into something thats acclamated it likes to explode. We also have been routing a partial grove in the bottom of the door and installing a lag in the floor that slides in this grove to act as a guide and stop to get rid of the external guide hardware.We always use a bumper in the pocket to stop the door so if someone slams the door open , because the lag will rip out the bottom of the door on the strike side.

   Tim

2. 
   gdavis62 | Mar 18, 2005 03:05am | #5

   Johnson 2000 model.  Here is the trolley and extruded aluminum track.  It'll handle 300 pounds of door.  That's probably enough for the door you'll hang on it, plus you hanging on as well.

   View Image

   Frame the surround with 2x6 studs ripped to 5", then sheet over the pocket, framed with the studs that come in the kit, with 3/4" OSB or plywood.

   You'll have a more robust assembly than if using the kit and doing it as a 3-1/2" frame depth.

1. 
   Shoeman | Mar 18, 2005 03:16am | #6

   Thanks Gene, I'll look into those as well

1. 
   JDRHI | Mar 18, 2005 04:04am | #9

   I`ll second Gene and third Mike.

   Frame 2 xs on the flat and sheathe with ply (1/2"), prior to drywall.

   I`ll be lookin` at those Lawrence as well, but the heavy duty Johnsons have always been more than adequate for me.

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1. 
   Shoeman | Mar 30, 2005 02:14am | #12

   Thanks for the input Jaybird.

   These doors actually have to go under a beam in a basement.

   Will likely use 2x3's or 2 5/8" steel studs.  Got a lot of space to fill.

   Thanks again,

   Shoe

3. 
   Piffin | Mar 18, 2005 03:40am | #7

   I don't know whjat is best.
   I have always used Johson and never had a problem. must be going on 75 pockets by now.

    

    

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1. 
   MikeSmith | Mar 18, 2005 03:55am | #8

   lawrence makes light , medium & heavby pocket door hardware..

    here's their 200 lb. line..

   http://www.lawrencehardware.com/docs/2004Catalog.pdfMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   Shoeman | Mar 30, 2005 02:12am | #11

   Guess I should not have asked for best - Best bang for the buck is what I was really looking for

   Found some track and trollys made by Johnson locally and they seem like they will be fine.

   Thanks for the input,

   Shoe

4. 
   DougU | Mar 18, 2005 06:56am | #10

   Hafele, no need to look any further.

   they dont give em away though.

   Doug

1. 
   Shoeman | Mar 30, 2005 02:15am | #13

   Thanks, I might look at them in the future.  Found Johnson locally, seem like it should work well.

   Thanks,

   Shoe

5. 
   Lansdown | Mar 30, 2005 02:18am | #14

   Johnson is okay, Grant is better and Hafele is definately the Rolls Royce of sliding hardware but it ain't cheap. I use 1-5/8", 20 Ga. steel studs, sheathed with 1/4" luan on the inside.

1. 
   tealwood | Mar 30, 2005 09:41pm | #15

   Am currently restoring a 1923 Craftsman style bungalow.  The new floor plan has a few modest changes which will greatly improve traffic flow and utility of the space.  One of these changes involves conversion of a traditional door into a pocket door.  The walls and ceilings are plaster and will be repaired as such.  The wall in question is 2x4 with plaster both sides.  I am trying to determine the best framing approach, so any legitimate suggestions would be welcome.  By the way, don't waste time suggesting a 2x6 wall since it isn't an option.  Have already been into a couple of the other doorways and the existing framing doesn't include modern day style headers, so I will have to open the wall up quite a bit above the door.  Thanks