FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Point of Attachment – Cable TV and Phone

loco335 | Posted in General Discussion on March 20, 2009 07:52am

Greetings all!

I’m looking for advice on hiding the telephone and cable wires that run from the point of attachment on my home to my basement. A good deal of the interior in that location is being renovated so the walls are open in that area. The wires are currently running along my new siding job (in progress) and it looks awful.

My thoughts are to run a conduit (schedule 40 plastic) inside from the basement to the area where the wires are physically attached to the house. Any thoughts or advice on the subject?

One of my concerns is how to make the the transition from the wet exterior to the dry interior and keep it that way. Is there a weather head made for this type of application?

TIA

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. Damien Stokholm | Mar 20, 2009 08:06pm | #1

    Are the wires overhead and under tension to the house? If so, are the wires connected to the house beneath an eave, or a fascia, or a gable end?

    1. loco335 | Mar 22, 2009 06:11am | #8

      The wires are overhead & under the power lines as you described. The wires are connected to the house with a hook just above the first floor. They travel down and out over a roof that extends roughly 16" off of the side of the building.What I really would like to do is go through the wall an run the wires inside the wall cavity through a conduit. That is why I am researching the weather head idea.

    2. loco335 | Mar 23, 2009 05:13am | #21

      Here are a couple of images illustrating the problem

      1. DanH | Mar 23, 2009 06:35am | #22

        You need to do something where those wires touch the roof edge -- eventually the wires will wear through unless protected somehow. You could install a weatherhead above the "rooflet" similar to the power service, or just install something on that edge to cushion the wires.
        The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith

        1. loco335 | Mar 23, 2009 04:35pm | #24

          I agree with you entirely. My original post explains (probably not very well that's why I posted the images) what I am trying to accomplish. I want to avoid going through the "rooflet" by going through the side of the building and running the conduit inside the wall cavity. I am fishing for good ideas to accomplish that.I have a little time before I close up the inside wall cavity so any ideas are greatly appreciated.Thanks for the info, it's a good idea to protect the wires rubbing on the roof's edge even though temporarily. With my luck that roof edge will do just what you mentioned. Thanks again

      2. User avater
        xxPaulCPxx | Mar 23, 2009 06:42am | #23

        Is that 4 wire phone cable or Fiber optic cable?

        Tu stultus esRebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!

        Look, just send me to my drawer.  This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.

        1. loco335 | Mar 23, 2009 04:37pm | #25

          It is a combination of cable TV and telephone wires. I do not believe any are fiberoptic.

        2. DanH | Mar 23, 2009 07:21pm | #26

          You'd never see fiber bent tight like that. A "harp" would be used at the corners to maintain about a 4" radius turn.
          The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith

      3. rez | Mar 23, 2009 07:50pm | #28

          

  2. User avater
    xxPaulCPxx | Mar 20, 2009 08:08pm | #2

    You can set up a regular electric weatherhead on top of metal conduit just like the electric.  What the phone and cable companies care about is that

    1.  There is an easy and secure place to mount their junction gear to connect to your lines.

    2.  They have someplace to attach a ground wire.

    Most homes don't plan for this sort of thing, so it's installed in the most haphazard ugly way imaginable.  Hey, they aren't paid to plan well, just to install something functional.

    Put up a mast head where you want the entrance to be, and run your phone and cable up through it.  Leave plenty of extra.  Alternatively, leave a string or some way to pull wire to your juntion box - some utilities insist on using all their own cables to devices.

    On the mast, attach a couple of crossbars of unistrut, then attach a surface to attach to, like 6"x12" 18ga galvy sheet.  Run a ground line and a bus bar to that surface.  If you want to get fancy you could even mount a weatherproof box up there to run cables and junction boxes in!

    Tu stultus es
    Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
    Also a CRX fanatic!

    Look, just send me to my drawer.  This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.

    1. loco335 | Mar 22, 2009 06:16am | #9

      Some good points here thanks for the info. I am trying to run the wires in a conduit inside the wall cavity. I wonder if the phone co interface has to be outside, or can it be in my basement, where the conduit in the wall cavity would lead to. I can't run the conduit outside easily because of a short overhang located just below the point of attachment.

  3. Goffer | Mar 20, 2009 10:14pm | #3

    I think you are looking for  Network Interface Device.

    Here is a link to some options:

    http://www.hometech.com/techwire/demarc.html#CC-CAC7700A

    They have some with phone and COAX in the same box.

     

    Kevin

     

     

    1. loco335 | Mar 22, 2009 06:19am | #10

      Thanks Kevin. There is a network interface already attached to the house( Verizon) . It is just below the new siding job probably about 12" off of the ground.

  4. User avater
    BillHartmann | Mar 20, 2009 10:14pm | #4

    You did not mention and "demarc's" or network interfaces.

    In most cases, for new installations or changes (last 30 years), the phone company uses an outside Demarc k or Network Interface box. These are gray boxes about 6x8. They contain the surge protector and test jack. They have 2 overlapping doors. The top one, which is easier to access, is the customer side. There will be a test jack which you can unplug the house side and plug in a phone to see if the phone company connections are working. And it is where you make the house connections. The phone company is only responsible for service up to the demarc. Past that you are responsible or pay a monthly service fee.

    Sometimes the demarc is inside for security. But if this is an older installation there might not be one. Now would be a good time to get one installed.

    Cable sometimes uses a similar box, but often they just a small inline surge arrestor.

    You can get weatherheads down to 3/4 and 1".

    http://www.munroelectric.com/catalog/carlon/junction.html

    If you can't find one and these is where you have a roof overhang just run the conduit up to with an 1" of the eves.

    Worst case is to use 2 90's or a 90 and 45 to make a shepard's hook on the end.

    In any case you will want to fill the inside end of the conduit with Duct Seal. That will block wind and condensation. Duct seal is a gray none hardening putty that you can get in the electrical isle at the home horror stores.

    Unless there is an overriding need I would not try and change the attachment points of the cables.

    .
    William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
    1. loco335 | Mar 22, 2009 06:41am | #11

      Thank you William.There is a Network interface attached to the outside foundation, roughly 12" off of the ground level. That's all good. My problem is getting the wires from the point of attachment to the basement and not have it look like a mad dog wiring job. So the options I'm exploring is how to get the wires to the basement neatly. The main problem is there is a short overhang off of the first story that wraps around the entire house. That provides shade and keeps the rain out of the first story windows. My electrical service drop passes through that overhang with sch 80 PVC. I missed the boat though with the conduit run for communications. That's the reason I am exploring the smaller weather head leading to a conduit that punches through the wall close to the point of attachment and runs through the wall cavity and down into the basement. I don't need or want to change the point of attachment. It's nice and high where I need it. My problem is getting down the wall around the 1st story overhang.I certainly don't want to make a Rube Goldberg out of the job. I'm going for the neat simple look.Tomorrow I'll take a picture and post it as words are failing to adequately describe the problem me thinks.In any case, thanks again, I am getting great input and ideas from all you good folks.

      1. User avater
        BillHartmann | Mar 22, 2009 06:55am | #13

        The I have heard of people putting the demarc inside so that the wires are not accessible for cut the wires to disable alarm systems. But the telco likes them outside where they are accessible so that they can test up to it with no one home. Then if it is good at the demarc the problem is not theirs..
        William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe

        1. HammerHarry | Mar 22, 2009 02:53pm | #18

          Our local telco likes the demarc inside, and the wires to come in through the wall as high up as physically possible, so that they can't be cut by burglars.

          If the layout of the house allows it, people here put the entrance to the garage, and put the elect panel, demarc etc in the garage.

  5. DanH | Mar 21, 2009 02:55am | #5

    It's always good to run the cables in conduit if you can. Flexible plastic "smurf tube" is good for this indoors -- doesn't have to be rigid. (But rigid plastic is the best choice outside.) But be sure the conduit is large enough -- probably a minimum of 1" for two cables, larger if possible.

    On the other hand, I did hide some telephone cable under the siding when I resided my house. I stapled the cable to the sheathing, burying it in a notch and using nail plates where it crossed over a stud, then marking the location of the wire when I applied the housewrap.

    As stated elsewhere, most phone and cable companies now require an outside demarcation box near where the cable reaches the house. Usually this box will be supplied by the phone/cable company. The wires should come from the overhead/underground service to the demarc box, and from there they would enter the house.

    Where the cable enters the house you have several choices. One is a simple hole drilled through the siding. The hole should be small enough that the wire is a fairly snug (but not overly tight) fit, then caulk around the wire. The wire should approach the hole FROM BELOW, with a "drip loop" if the wire is initially coming from overhead.

    You can also (to make the direct connection to conduit) use a conventinal weather head, attached to the top of a weatherproof box. Or simply have the wire enter a weatherproof box from below, using a rubber gasketed conduit fitting, if you can find one, or just caulking the wires as they pass through a standard fitting. Always make sure there's a decent drip loop.

    The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
    1. loco335 | Mar 22, 2009 07:06am | #15

      I get the picture you are painting. This is the best info so far. You are right, I don't necessarily need a weather head, I could go with a weather proof box as you described for the outside forming a drip loop and passing the wire/s through the bottom of the box. Here is what I'm thinking and please let me know if I'm overdoing it.Use a small siding J block just below the point of attachment.
      Secure the weather proof box to the J block.
      Use a 1" pipe nipple to pass through the wall.
      Attach another box on the interior wall (cavity) back to back using the pipe nipple with the one outside. This allows me accsess for pulling more/new wires in the future
      Run the 1" conduit down the wall cavity to the basement where it connects to the demarcation/interface box. If the demarcation box must be outside, it really is not a problem because the wires currently pass through the foundation through a strait piece of schedule 40 PVC.Thanks again for your help. .

      1. DanH | Mar 22, 2009 03:48pm | #19

        Yeah, that's more or less what I had in mind. I've got something similar feeding my antenna feeds into the house. I used a piece of waterproof flex through the wall because I needed a jog between the two boxes.
        The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith

  6. Dave45 | Mar 21, 2009 03:13am | #6

    Can you post a pic of your box(es)? One thing you need to think about is that the box(es) are the point of demarcation between you and the phone/cable company. That means that they "own" the box(es) and get a vote on how/where they're attached to your house.

    The wires are yours from the box(es) into the house, but they own the box(es) and the wires coming into them.

    1. ottago | Mar 21, 2009 06:19am | #7

      One thing most of the installers i know (either phone or cable) prefer that the demarc be at about chest high .To me thats about four and a half foot tall. They also want a #6 wire to ground to power with.

      Edited 3/20/2009 11:21 pm by ottago

      1. User avater
        BillHartmann | Mar 22, 2009 06:51am | #12

        I was out walking today and notice a house where the drop attached to the eves, about 10 ft off the ground.And right next to it was the demarc.I don't think that 10 ft is chest high for many people <G>..
        William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe

        1. User avater
          xxPaulCPxx | Mar 22, 2009 07:03am | #14

          All of them around here are up on the eves.

          Tu stultus esRebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!

          Look, just send me to my drawer.  This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.

      2. loco335 | Mar 22, 2009 07:22am | #17

        oops, mine is about 12" off of the ground, mounted to the foundation. The phone company has been here already to work on the box. He did not seem to take issue with the location. I just hung all the siding on the first floor and didn't want that equipment on my new siding job. Before I started the siding job, the phone co drilled a hole in the old siding and just ran the wire along 7 - 10' horizontally on the outside where he could get the wire to the room where the computer was. ( I was not home at the time.) It looked terrible.After seeing that, I don't allow any of the utilities to attach anything to my home without me being there. Don't get me wrong, a majority of the installers look to do a professional job, but like any business there are those knuckleheads spread out there that just don't care.Sorry bout the rant, thanks for your help.

    2. loco335 | Mar 22, 2009 07:08am | #16

      Hi Dave45,I'm going to post a photo tomorrow. Thanks for the input. You're right about the photo. It sure will save a loy of typing to describe the issue.Thanks

  7. gfretwell | Mar 22, 2009 08:46pm | #20

    An easy way to do this is to put an LB conduit body on the outside. That way you have a straight shot to run the cable inside, then poke them down through the other opening and put the cover on. It will be flat against the wall. Put some duct seal in around the hole so it isn't a wasp condo.

  8. User avater
    rjw | Mar 23, 2009 07:21pm | #27

    What kind of siding do you Have?

    And what's inside at the point of attachment? And how high is it?

    are they in a trench to the house?


    "Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs is people who have come alive."

    Howard Thurman

    1. loco335 | Mar 23, 2009 09:35pm | #29

      Take a look at the photos I posted yesterday. They should fill in some of the blanks.I'm putting Vinyl siding up. Inside the point of attachment is a hollow stud bay (24" on center for this particular location. The stud walls are 2x4 actual dimension.

      1. Damien Stokholm | Mar 23, 2009 11:08pm | #30

        The pictures help a lot. As others have mentioned, you can create a mast hood to create a weather-proof entrance to the house. Often cable guys simply put a loop in the wire and then silione the hole in the wall - the loop causes the water to drip at the bottom, and it tends run down and away from the house.The thing is, you really have to get the phone line into that demarcation box before you enter the house. That box is meant to allow a technician to come and isolate problems in the line. Any problem on the house side of that box is then the homeowner's problem, not the phone company's. If that were my house, I would supply another conduite through the roof and enter the house near the ground.I guess that you could maybe put that same conduit inside as you've mentioned, but bring the wire back out to the demarc box before re-entering the house.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

FHB Podcast Segment: Repairing an Old Home While Maintaining Its Integrity

Learn about different approaches to making updates and repairs to older homes with historic charm.

Featured Video

Builder’s Advocate: An Interview With Viewrail

Learn more about affordable, modern floating stairs, from design to manufacturing to installation.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 684: Masonry Heaters, Whole-House Ventilation, and Porch Flooring
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Repairing an Old Home While Maintaining Its Integrity
  • Tools and Gear for the Moms Who Get it Done
  • An Easier Method for Mitered Head Casings

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers
  • Issue 327 - November 2024
    • Repairing Damaged Walls and Ceilings
    • Plumbing Protection
    • Talking Shop

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 81%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data