Replies

1. 
   Brian | Aug 15, 2006 03:41pm | #1

   I  use the clay that came out of the hole (edit) - I mean crusher run - I repeat never just use the clay...treated posts aren't what they used to be.   

   4' is pretty deep - rent a tamper to get everything nice and tight.

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   Treat every person you meet like you will know them the rest of your life - you just might!

   
   

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   Edited 8/15/2006 1:58 pm ET by Brian

1. 
   Notchman | Aug 15, 2006 06:42pm | #6

   Here in Western Oregon, code requirements for pole barn post sets are 24" diameter hole X 5' deep; 6" concrete in bottom, set post, backfill and tamp with 3/4" minus gravel.

   Requirements may vary by jurisdiction.

2. 
   johnnyd | Aug 15, 2006 03:41pm | #2

   You're going to get answers all over the map in this.  I happen to be of the gravel camp...and like to use the washed 3/4" and down crushed limerock, or whatever the ready-mix places in your area use for aggregate. 

   The challenge, I think, is to get firm backfill around those posts and at the same time provide some way for water to get away from the posts.  Even treated will last longer if they are not wet most of the time.

   However, Morton Buildings standard practice, at least three years ago in my parts, is to just dump a couple bags of cement along with the excavated soil for back-fill.

3. 
   VaTom | Aug 15, 2006 03:43pm | #3

   Hot, you haven't filled in your profile or mentioned where you're building.

   I'm using crushed stone for mine.  My poles are recycled from a barn where it was just dirt.  After 20+ yrs buried the poles are still 90%.  Both locations are well-drained.

   PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!

4. 
   IMERC | Aug 15, 2006 06:34pm | #4

   well tamped crushed pea gravel don't use the clay.. make sure you have several inches of gravel between the the CC pad and the end of your pole...

   how much space between the side of the pole and the wall of the hole..

    

    

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!! What a Ride!

   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

5. 
   Mooney | Aug 15, 2006 06:37pm | #5

   The new thought on it is crushed stone instead of concrete or dirt. Even though red clay packs well . The thought process is to let water drain away from the treated posts insted of intrapping the water to the wood. Concrete will trap the water. Crushed stone will pack the post against the walls of the hole and allow for very minimal movement which is good to have a small amount such as a fishing pole defying brakeing when the lumber becomes aged.

    

   Tim

6. 
   woodway | Aug 15, 2006 07:15pm | #7

   I've noticed that PG&E just digs a hole, wraps the PT pole with heavy bituminous rubber so that the rubber is about 4 inches above grade when the pole is in final position and then they just backfill with dirt. I've seen poles that must be near 40 years old and still going strong. As far as tamping goes, they just use a handheld pneumatic jumping-up-and-down machine to make a good tight seal around the pole and then break for lunch.

7. 
   fingers | Aug 15, 2006 09:46pm | #8

   Don't know what they cost, but have you considered these. 

   http://www.permacolumn.com/

   Of course if you used those, it would take all the fun out of sifting thru all the differing opinions answering your original post.

8. 
   Ashgrove | Aug 17, 2006 08:05pm | #9

   Having built and also dismantled a fair number of pole barns- some observations.
   1. I use the concrete pads under the posts, I have seen too many wavy
   eave lines without. Placing a rerod thru the post and dumping a bag
   or two of something down the hole I am sure makes the buyer feel
   better, but pulling the posts 20 years later it doesn't seem to have
   made much difference vs. no concrete in the condition of the post (and doesn't make the posts very hard to pull out- so much for uplift resistance)

   2. The choice of fill used in the hole hasn't made much difference, the pole is going to give first at the wood-moisture-AIR interface i.e. ground level, so surface water control seems much more important.

   3. Do not pour a concrete floor out to the skirt board thus surrounding the posts, if so the life of the post was just cut in
   half.

   4. I like the priciple of the perma-column, have used some. But to install them so it looks like you take pride in your work is a real
   hassle.