Replies

1. 
   brownbagg | Feb 05, 2008 10:23pm | #1

   you really dont have to polish anything, an acid stain will had the color to it and then appling a sealer like a poly will give the polish look.

   .

   two ways to screw up concrete 1) concrete driver 2) concrete finisher

2. 
   jarhead2 | Feb 05, 2008 10:33pm | #2

   I don't think you will get it to work.

   The floors when I have stained were baby butt smooth. 3000 lb. concrete with no accelerants and then they polished or smoothed the concrete with machines. I mean slick as glass. This is what gives you the marbled look. I am used to using Kemiko products http://kemiko.com . you can check online with them, contact them and explain your situation to see if it is possible. This is an acid stain.

   Another product I have used was through specialty concrete products, http://www.scpusa.com/ ,  they have a product, 6000 lb. strength that can be sprayed on like you are talking about, then knocked down with a trowel. It is not good enough to finish with stain but after you knock it down it gives a nice textured look that will cover a block wall and then you can put a colored acrylic finish over this. The color ids integrated into the finish. The end result is nice.

   They are redoing their web site so for the most part it is incomplete. You may call them if you are interested in their product. Have them send you some literature.

   Here is a color chart. http://www.scpusa.com/standard_colors.php 

   Below is not a very good picture quality wise but this is a knock down finish. The lighter color was done over a stencil but look at the darker color. This is more what I am referring to. This can be placed over block or old concrete and will not come off. Unless you use a grinder!

   View Image

    

    

    

    

   “Some people wonder all their lives if they've made a difference. The Marines don't have that problem.”
                   Reagan....

   Failure is the condiment that gives success its flavor.
   -Truman Capote

3. 
   jarhead2 | Feb 05, 2008 10:39pm | #3

   You can try and do as BrownBag said but in my humble experience, people like that polished marble look and assume that is what you are looking for.

   The acid reacts withg the lime in the concrete. I am not sure what effects you would get with the staining block and something you may trowel over the block. Maybe BB can fill us in as far as the make up of blocks and anything you may spread over the block.

   Then again there might be a stain that isn't acid based that will work better for you. As I said, I am only familiar with Kemiko.

    

    

    

    

   “Some people wonder all their lives if they've made a difference. The Marines don't have that problem.”
                   Reagan....

   Failure is the condiment that gives success its flavor.
   -Truman Capote

1. 
   brownbagg | Feb 05, 2008 10:46pm | #4

   block cant help you, I screwed my block up.two ways to screw up concrete 1) concrete driver 2) concrete finisher

4. 
   peteshlagor | Feb 05, 2008 11:01pm | #5

   Yes, it can be done, but not with thinset.

   http://www.miracote.com/index.php?href=productdetail&id=16

   This MPC (multi purpose coating) product is very similar to thinset, but has further additives.  It can be mixed in different thicknesses (within reason) depending upon application to achieve different effects.  Note at the bottom of the list of applications is "Wall Coverings."

   In reality, one would not "just" use one product.  You've got a multitude of issues to deal with.  One product will not commonly be sufficient to achieve all.

   First, realize your "concrete wall" is not going to be like a foundation wall, meaning 6" thick cement.  Unless he wants to actually stain the foundation wall (in that case, everything I'm about to write is drivel).

   I'm assuming he means he's gonna frame a wall and apply a cementatious product to it to mimic ceement.  That's where this MPC comes in.

   But first, it needs a substrate to adhere to.  DW is not sufficient.  Tile backer, ceement board, Kerdi, tar paper or such can be used.  Ceement board would have the advantage of skipping this next step.

    Expanded metal lath needs to be attached to the vertical surface.  Stapled very well with at least 1 1/4" staples a couple of inches apart.  Then this product

   http://www.miracote.com/index.php?href=productdetail&id=19

   is thoroughly troweled into the mesh and smoothed out with a float or trowel.

   Ceement board from above would need it's joints filled in a bit with the same product.

   Now the MPC is applied.  But how?  Any number of ways.  Hawk and pool trowel, hopper gun - with or without knockdown, roller, brush and more.  Depends upon the texture he wants to achieve.This sets up prettty quickly, so don't play games.

   Then after it cures in about 8 hours or so, he can stain.

    

1. 
   stulpent | Feb 05, 2008 11:31pm | #6

   This is Smitty's friend.  The name is Glenn, nice to meet you and thanks for the help.  The wall is a foundation wall in the basement.  I tore the walls down and had to patch some wet spots....there was a little cracking.  I covered the whole wall in this quikcrete stuff that is a moisture barrier.  I don't necessarily need the 'marble' look.  I would like to stain it, but I'm not sure what to use to smooth the wall out that can be stained.  Again, thanks for the help.

   Glenn

1. 
   BillHartmann | Feb 05, 2008 11:39pm | #7

   What is your climate and what are you going to use the space for?I would think that you would want some insulation..
   .
   A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

1. 
   stulpent | Feb 06, 2008 12:32am | #9

   A-hole?  You remind me of myself.....

   A basement in Colorado....and I already thought of that.  Haven't decided if I care enough.  It's been like that for a week in freezing weather, yet haven't had the furnace kick on any more than usual.  If it becomes an issue I'll cover the wall up....thanks for the imput

    

2. 
   peteshlagor | Feb 05, 2008 11:43pm | #8

   You'll want a "micro-topping."  That's what this MPC is.  Comes in white or grey.  Sanded or smooth.

   Spray your wall lightly with a dilute (1:1) solution of the liquid catalyst as a primer and apply the mud.

   Don't expect the results to be as smooth as drywall mud.

   Cantact miracote (http://www.miracote.com) for the closest dealer to you.  They'll pass you off to a regional marketing guy.  Don't blow him off.  He's the guy will ALL of the technical knowhow on how to do your job the fastest, quickest, and cheepest.  Not to mention, perhaps some incredible results.  So strike up a conversation with him.