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Discussion Forum

Polishing Granite Tile Edge

| Posted in General Discussion on September 12, 2002 04:02am

I will be installing kitchen counter tops of 12″ black granite tiles. I want to edge them with cut strips of the same tile to get the look of solid granite counters at about 20% of the cost.

One edge of the tile will be exposed and must be polished to match the surface. Does anyone have any experience to pass along.

Thanks in advance.

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  1. Adamk8 | Sep 12, 2002 08:17pm | #1

    I have used a diamond shaping bit that fits on an angle grinder and then sand with

    high grit paper up to and over 500grit . the paper is adhesive and sticks to a backing

    pad screwed on the angle grinder . use a variable speed angle grinder (possible with

    fixed speed grinder but not sure)  I used this method to put quarter rounded edge

    on marble tiles for wall base trim in bathroom. These items are available on-line at

    specialty marble and grainite fabrication tool suppliers. expensive.

    1. User avater
      JeffBuck | Sep 13, 2002 01:00am | #2

      From what I understand...you are talking about butt jointing them......any thoughts on a mitered edge? Jeff.......Sometimes on the toll road of life.....a handful of change is good.......

  2. DHambley2 | Sep 13, 2002 01:44am | #3

    I paid about $150 for a set of diamond grinding pads which I put on my 4" grinder. They're 50 grit through 800 and buff. Even though you only have one job to do, I'd get the whole set. It's really handy to have some stone cutting tools around if you're into carpentry. I get my granite and tile supplies from 'Master Wholsale' in Seattle. There's probably similar stores near you. I saw similar pads online from some California outfit. I forgot there name. You can probably have yahoo search for it.

    Darrell

  3. KARLSTER | Sep 13, 2002 08:33am | #4

    John,  You want "to get the look of solid granite counters" by using 12 by 12 tile.  Take a look around at some other granite tile counters and make sure you can achieve the look you desire.  Eliminating lippage between the tile is a big problem for many tile setters and bear in mind the tiles have been slightly beveled on the edges to eliminate any chipping from the cutting process.  The fact that you have to have a grout joint to properly seal the countertop from water intrusion combined with the bevel makes it impossible in my mind to "to get the look of solid granite counters" using tile.

    Why black granite?  It is like owning a black car.  It will show every imperfection and speck of dust.  The last kitchen I did in black granite the homeowner was talking about putting in a water softener because the water spotting was driving him nuts.  Also black is one of the toughest to polish.

    If you already know all this and are determined to continue, I recommend using C Cure epoxy grout.  They have alot of colors but Black Orchid is probably your best bet.  This grout will give you the easiest maintenance grout joints and has been a breeze for me to work with.

    Black is a difficult color in which to bring out a deep shine.  If you are determined to do it yourself you might want to use a color enhancing sealer like Tenax's "Ager". You can buy it from Braxton Bragg and it will take a mediocre polish on black granite and make it look acceptable.  I know some people use sandpaper and get good results but I only use sandpaper up to 220 grit.  You can burn the stone with the higher grits if you run the sander too fast.  I do most of my polishing with wet pads made by Alpha Professional Tools in NJ but they are way too expensive for a DIYer to justify.

    The previous post mentioned polishing black marble.  This is  significantly easier than granite and sandpaper will do just fine.  Marble is not appropriate for a kitchen as mild acids will etch it.

    Jeff has the best idea so far as it eliminates the polishing but you need a good tile saw that won't chip much. Trying to get well sealed joints with minimal lippage between the tile is going to drive you nuts.

    I still don't know why you want granite tile.  Trying to get well sealed joints with minimal lippage between the tile is going to drive you nuts.

    Granite is all about the ease of clean up and durability a solid surface countertop gives you. 

    1. maneyj | Sep 13, 2002 08:06pm | #5

      adamk8 and dhambley2, thanks for heading me to the internet search. I had not tried it because I figured it was too small a specialized tool that I would be looking for. I plugged "Granite Tools" into Google and got 1,442 hits. Five out of the first ten look like good sources.

      Jeff J. Buck: Yes I considered mitering the joint but I decided that a grout line right on the corner would be unacceptable.

      Karl: I know I won't get a counter top that can pass for a solid granite top, but with the budget I have to work with this is as close as I can get. I have seen self edged black granite tile counters on HGTV and they look pretty good. The local tile supplier has a couple of showroom displays with tile edged with hardwood. That is still an option.

      I have the black tiles in hand, and unlike manufactured/baked tiles they are very flat, very square and very shiny, with only the slightest relieve on the edges. I don't think lippage will be a problem. The C Cure epoxy interests me. I considered epoxying them together in lieu of grout the way granite slabs are joined. Without any experience I am afraid to waste $500 worth of tile.

      I realize the tools will be expensive as are most quality tools, but as a SC licensed home builder I'm sure I will find many more opportunities to use them. As to the color, I don't get to pick that. I only get to be the boss as long as she lets me.

      1. KARLSTER | Sep 14, 2002 11:58pm | #6

        Thanks for the feedback on all the comments. It is always interesting to hear reactions to the advice posted.

        I have not been impressed by Harbor freight but their diamond tools are actually a great value if they are of sufficient quality for the job you are doing.  Go to this link:

        http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Category.taf?f=bylogo&logourl=diamondlife%2Egif&brand=Diamond%20Life

        and look at items 44886,44887,44888. I havent tried them but they are probably sufficient to polish what you have described.  If your polish is still lacking buy Tenax's ager and it will bring out the deep black color. 

        These pads typically must be run wet and at a very low speed ie less than 4000 rpm.  just wet things every so often with a big sponge left sitting on the tile you are polishing.  I would polish the tile prior to cutting it as a 2" strip is tough to anchor.  Also is you can line up five or six tile and clamp them so you can polish them all in one pass it keeps things flatter and more consistent on the edges.  The pads are pretty aggressive below 500 grit so you might want to do any preliminary smoothing with 120  and 220 grit silicon carbide sandpaper discs.  I prefer 7" ones but you could also go with 5" velcro backed silicon carbide paper. An orbital sander might work with these but I usually run them on a variable speed disc grinder.

        Look up Braxton Bragg on the internet and give them a call for sandpaper and tenax ager. You shouldn't need to seal your black granite as it is too dense to absorb most stains.

        The oak edging would sure save a lot of time. 

        Karl

      2. KARLSTER | Sep 15, 2002 12:33am | #7

        I guess harbor freight discontinued the velcro backer pad (item 44888) but you can get a 4" velcro backed rubber pad from Braxton Bragg. This backer is what goes between your grinder and the polishing pad.

        I will be curious to see what your take is on these pads.  You are getting a set of five for less than I pay for one but I think the Alpha pads I use are tremendously overpriced.  I have seen chinese import pads that are every bit as good as the alphas at polishing but they may not last quite as long

        Karl

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