Replies

1. 
   The_Tennis_Court_Builder_...on_t | Jan 19, 2002 01:31am | #1

   *
   OK....used polyurathane glue to glue up a gate that was made of pressure treated southern yella pine....

   So I trim the gate to size...the cut off falls...hits the ground and booink...the two glued up pieces just fall apart.

   Now I'm thinking space shuttle seals...what a surprise!

   And this winter my girl glues up hardwood wheels and such to make some cute christmas ornaments...and boink...again...if dropped the glue lets go....This time the glue was my trusty yellow glue...but the glue was old..

   So...does yellow titebond go bad if it still is liquid enough to apply?

   And is poly glue bad for gaps...moist wood...Pt...or what?...I thought since it is mouisture cured and waterproof...and expands like the dickens that it would be ideal for my PT wood gate.

   near the stream,

   aj

   For now, I again swear to never use Gorilla glue again.

1. 
   The_Tennis_Court_Builder_...on_t | Jan 19, 2002 01:33am | #2

   *Oh...and enjoy the weekend...Off to ske Gore and Whiteface....Today was Sugarbush day but I missed that...near the skis,aj

1. 
   Gene_Davis_ | Jan 19, 2002 01:49am | #3

   *And how will we know each other, AJ, when climbing aboard the Cloudsplitter Gondola at Whiteface?

1. 
   Keith_C | Jan 19, 2002 03:22am | #4

   *As I recall, titebond has a date on it like Budweiser...it does go bad even though you can spread it. I used to love Gorilla glue, but then I realized it falls apart quickly. Don't use it anymore.

1. 
   piffin_ | Jan 19, 2002 04:49am | #5

   *The Franklin reps told me at a JLC show that if it hasn't separated it is still good. Most failures I see are from bad surface prep - not that I'm indicting your girl but is it possible that she got some makeup or lipstick or skin cream on the wheel before glueing?The guys at The woodshed might know more about this subject. I like Gorilla glue for some things and not others. I'd be afraid to use it for wet PT. There is chemical there besides the water moisture.

2. 
   The_Tennis_Court_Builder_...on_t | Jan 19, 2002 05:11am | #6

   *Gene,Whiteface...Sunday...We all have season passes...so we get there eventually...Black half helmet...K2 Axis skiis...and the secret Breaktime Dwarf tossing hand shake.Also channel 12...-- on the radios...upper lodge...beer at 2pm...lower at 4-5..near the stream,ajHow is the home progressing. Do you need any work done?...I am designing 4 dormers to be built in NJ early Spring...Then Tennis...Skiing now.

3. 
   jon_ledebuhr | Jan 19, 2002 05:17am | #7

   *I agree with you guys on the Poly glue. I thought it was sposta be a strong glue, WRONG, it doesent hold well at all. So whats the big deal with this Poly Glue?? and i did make sure the surface was clean.It seems like Golrilla glue holds like a ant.

4. 
   The_Tennis_Court_Builder_...on_t | Jan 19, 2002 05:24am | #8

   *Jon,.... We ratted em out didn't we...Bigtime marketing is way more often applied to make up for so so products!Gorilla my butt...gurly glue...yaa a gurly could pull it apart...near the stream,ajSplints...don't get after me for gurly now...

5. 
   Bill_Hartmann | Jan 19, 2002 08:12am | #9

   *Polurathane will foam and fill the joints, but the foam does not have any strength.You need to have as tight fitting joints as for old yellor glue.And you need to clamp it to keep it from opening.

6. 
   RonTeti | Jan 19, 2002 09:42pm | #10

   *The poly glue takes longer to set up 24 hours . Titebond sets up in about a hour.Maybe ya didnt let it set up long enough. The set up time is why I like titebond.

7. 
   splintergroupie_ | Jan 20, 2002 12:37am | #11

   *Gurly glue? GURLY GLUE!?!!?!?AJ/one/whoever you've become:I had some failures with poly glue this spring for the first time, but i was rushing a batch of cutting boards through the process and didn't let it set up long enough--"dry" is not a good indicator. I thought it was the brand, since my previous attempts with other brands of poly had been very successful. (Excepting rosewood, which i remedied with slow-setting epoxy.) I tried it again leaving every clamp-up---maybe 80 pieces of laminates---in the clamps for at least 24 hours. I had one crack on over 60 cutting boards and 40 lazy susans last time i made those items.Titebond can indeed go bad even before it has obviously separated. I've almost quit using it in favor of the poly, bec poly won't give glue creep like aliphatic resins. The joints still have to be good, though, and it won't compensate in end grain for biscuits or tenons.BTW, the least expensive i've found is Elmer's brand of poly glue that HD sells. Gorilla is very expensive by comparison and i don't see any advantage. You'll save enough to buy a few latex gloves...You're skiing and i'm doing taxes--*boo-hoo*...or maybe *boo-hiss*!

8. 
   Dave_Richeson | Jan 20, 2002 07:14am | #12

   *splinter, have you ever tried doing a wash with yellow gue as part of you glue up? We do custom picture framing and I have had problems with titebond on really dense hardwoods. I found that by washing the end grain with thinned down glue, opens it up enough to get a good bond when I do the final glue up. Some of the moldings we buy are so hard they look like they have been polished after they are cut.I have also found that yellow glue has a definite shelf life. I try to buy mine from my cabinet supply vendor. He has a high enough turnover in stock that I know his glue hasn't been sitting in a wharehouse for a year. Also the more radical the swing in temperature the glue goes through, the shorter it's life. Unheated shops can kill a bottle in as little as six months.The next time you use rosewood try wipeing it with xylene. The solvent will lift the natural oil out of the wood, making it easier to glue and finish. Reccomend that this be done outside. Xylene is baaaad stuff in a confined area. Dave

9. 
   splintergroupie_ | Jan 20, 2002 11:02am | #13

   *I do all the framing for a stained glass shop and annually a couple hundred jewelry boxes with mitered corners, but i have the opposite experience: i usually have the most trouble with open-grained woods rather than the really hard ones like purpleheart or bubinga. I oftentimes slather oak/wenge/padauk, then make another round with the glue brush all over again. Miters are all i use yellow glue for routinely, since it pops off the finished interior so nicely. I have a lovely scar in my forehead from a lazy susan coming apart at a padauk-wenge joint while i was edge-sanding on the lathe, in the days before poly; there just wasn't enough glue to fill the pores and hold it together, too.The only reliable person i can get yellow glue from stocks up in the fall to avoid glue that has been frozen in transit here in the Great White North. Even so, it still gets lumpy by spring. I use up old bottles attaching fabric lining to the box panels, wasting not.I've been subduing the oily woods with epoxy, wiping with acetone if it isn't a fresh cut. Oddly, i read acetone isn't too hard on a body. Thanks for the xylene tip, too.

10. 
    jcallahan | Jan 20, 2002 11:17pm | #14

    *Any suggestions on pt, sg? Used Elmer's poly on a pt ramp I built. Some areas are fine- glue held and is rock solid, others ng. I used clamps and moistened areas that were bone dry.

11. 
    splintergroupie_ | Jan 20, 2002 11:57pm | #15

    *I can't be of any use with PT wood, i'm afraid. All my PT stuff gets mechanical fasteners in addition to glue, so no failures there, but i don't know how much is due to the glue or the steel. Again, i would only guess that you didn't clamp long enough--the foam being dry is just not a good indicator that the interior surfaces have cured. Or maybe the size/shape of the joint changed dramatically when the PT lumber dried out. For exterior use, i've used poly glue by itself successfully on miters on 3 & 4' wide cedar gates, but the joints were splined as well, with decorative corner blocks over the miters for more gluing surface.