FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Polyurethane adhesives

BillHartmann | Posted in General Discussion on April 12, 2005 08:56am

As far as I know there are two commonly available type of polyurethane adhesvies.

One is the liquid “woodworkers” glue, best know from the Gorillia brand, but also available from Elmers and Franklin (Titebond).

The only is the thick “gunable” poly contruction adhesive, PL Premuin.

That is the only brand that I am familar with, don’t know if there are any other commonly available one.

There is also the hot melt poly system, but that is fairly specialized and I am sure many other industrial versions of poly adhesives.

But the woodworkers and construction version both cure by reaction to moisture and are know to stain fingers. The woodworkers type foams up when it cures, but the foam is easy to remove and I have never try to remove excess before it cures.

Whenever I have used PL Preminum I have just made sure that I don’t have any excess to squeeze out.

On This Old House Tommmy was asemblying some window cases out of PVC material and using “polyurethane adhesvise” on the joinst. No way of telling, but the cartridge did look like PL Premuim.

When he did the miter excess squeezed out and stuck a figer right on it to see if they where aligned before it shot it with some brads and applied a spring clamp.

The they mounted on the window with a large amount of adhesive between the end of the casing and the sill which squeezed out.

That was all they showed.

1) How did they clean the excess. I would thing that it would be too hard to do after it cures?

2) is there someother poly that is non-staining or should I look for Tommy’s purple finger on the next show?

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. User avater
    GoldenWreckedAngle | Apr 12, 2005 09:10pm | #1

    PL Premium and the spray foam both clean right up with paint thinner if you get to it before they cure.

    I've had pretty good success cleaning up both the adhesive and foam squeeze out with a sharp chisel or razor blade after they cure, provided I didn't smear them when they were still wet.

    Every time I let that stuff set on my hands though its a solid 4 to 6 days before it finally wears off.

     

     

    If we fail to catch a cosmic fish it may be a trillion years before the opportunity comes again

  2. rez | Apr 12, 2005 09:18pm | #2

    An interesting site on adhesives commenting on a sealant product.
    http://www.on-hand.com/ADHFOCUSspring97.html

     

    be an IMERC groupie

    sobriety is the root cause of dementia.

    1. User avater
      BillHartmann | Apr 12, 2005 09:44pm | #3

      Very interesting site.Focused on industrial applications. But I looked that some fo the PDF manual and again will based on inductial usages still be handle for some construction needs.Also looking at that site I realized that there also 3M and Sika poly marine "construction" adhesives.And I found a number of "sealants" both the one part moisture cure and multiple parts, at least one indicated that they are non-staining.But sealants main application is sealing and not strenght.

      1. rez | Apr 13, 2005 04:45am | #12

        On the subject of strength I did a search of an old post I made way back when.

        Thing sticks in my mind 'cause it seemed so unusual.

        Thought it might be of an additional interest now that the subject is bought up...

         

        20003.1 

        A 4x8 sheet of a cement backing board covered with a mortar compound used to embed the covering of white quartz marble chips screwed into brick back sometime in 60s or 70s. One heavy dog.

        This 4x8 sheet was caulked to an adjoining piece of the same to cover the seam. Owner wants the brick exposed so take off the sheet.

        I finally remove the last screw and am expecting the sheet to drop the 2inches it is above the sidewalk. Nothing happens. Ah, a hidden screw. Where is it?

        I pry the side of the 4x8 to see where the connection is and the thing pulls from the brick. What?

        The rubber based caulk is still pliable and the whole 4x8 sheet swings open like a door on a hinge. I try to move it up and down. No movement.

        Open it all the way flush to the wall to try to crack the seam. Nothing. I get the ladder and with the sheet perpendicular to the wall I apply about half my weight to the top corner before she starts to give. Never seen such a thing.

        Sure wish I knew what caulk those guys used.

         

        sobriety is the root cause of dementia.

        1. DANL | Apr 13, 2005 03:05pm | #17

          I had to take an old door and frame out of a garage once and had to cut the caulk with a untility knife--no way could I pull it loose. Once I got a strip of caulk loose though, I could just pull on it and use the knife occasionally--like skinning a deer. I think it was butyl caulk.

  3. Piffin | Apr 13, 2005 12:01am | #4

    Acetone when still uncured is how I clean the fingers etc.

    PL premium will still expand while curing, but not nearly as much as Gorilla. The liquid ones have more expander in the mix. The cans of spray foam are still the same product, curing by moisture, but they have yet more expander still...

    It's all a mix a solids, solvents, poly, and expanding agents, and in some case3s - propellants.

    so my speculation for the show would be that they waited 'till it cured, and used a good sharp utility knife to clean the excess, or ignored it, and just didn't ever show the crappy side of their work.
    His fingers? He probably has a spray can of some solvent. Electric parts cleaner or carb cleaner, maybe brake cleaner...

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

    1. User avater
      BillHartmann | Apr 13, 2005 12:15am | #5

      No these where on the front of the casing where they would clearly show.And the miters might be cleaned up with an edge after they cure, but not easily. But the casing hits the sill it would be very hard to clean up. Lot of work and too much possiblility of digging in which would in turn require more work.Must have have cleaned it up with solvent before it set.

    2. DANL | Apr 13, 2005 02:28am | #7

      Don't mean to yap at you, but...Just FYI, I was more or less washing my hands in acetone one day when I worked in the lab at a refinery. The boss saw me and pitched a fit--"Don't you know it's a known carcinogen?" and he never wanted to see me put it on my skin again, etc.. I don't know that it's that nasty, but, better safe than sorry and try to keep the glue off hands in first palce (yeah, like that's gonna happen) or clean it off with something less nasty (whatever that may be). Edit: On the other hand, no pun intended, nail polish remover has acetone in it, so how bad can it be? (although DW keeps telling me how much tougher women are than men!).

       (Boss probably wouldn't have liked my washing the dye off my hands using the gasoline coming out of the lead house. Even I realized how stupid that was as soon as I did it and never did it again. But my bones sure show up on x-rays! (Just kidding.).)

      Edited 4/12/2005 7:35 pm ET by Danno

      1. Piffin | Apr 13, 2005 03:04am | #8

        I've reasoned the same thing thru about hte acetone/nail polish. I don't dip and pour it all over my hands. I tip the can to wet the corner of a rag, and use the rag to scrub up. Since it dries the skin, I then use some WD$) to put the oil back in.Carcinogens are all around us and the petro chemicals are amoung the leaders, but amount of exposure has a lot to do with it too. If I bathed in acetione daily, I would buy pretty good cancer policies, but for a dab now and then, Im not losing any sleeep over it. Gasoline fumes are also carcinogens, and I don't plan to quit filling up my vehicles yet. Same with wood dust. It was put on the list last year... 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

        1. DANL | Apr 13, 2005 03:12am | #9

          Good points about many things being carcinogens--I heard once that some gov't agency was going to require warning signs on golf course sand traps due to possible silicosis! If you were a professional golfer, maybe, but then those guys generally avoid the bunkers.

      2. User avater
        BillHartmann | Apr 13, 2005 03:31am | #10

        I think that Acetone is one of those things that is carcinogen in California. But safe in the other 49 states and DC. <G>.But I acetone dries my hands too much to use much of it.Thanks for the painter wipes. I will get some of them.

        1. joewood | Apr 13, 2005 03:48am | #11

          Denatured alcohol is what we use to clean-up the uncured glue. Sorry, I've tried thinner and acetone and they just don't work that well.

           

          The alcohol is what you want, especially for cleaning it off of your fingers.

          1. Piffin | Apr 13, 2005 05:09am | #13

            I'll try that. The only trouble with bathing in the alcohol is that someone might mistake your condition for a 'disease' 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

      3. 4Lorn1 | Apr 13, 2005 06:37am | #14

        Acetone, and a lot of other solvents, or so I'm told by a chemist, soaks into the skin and remains at easily detectable levels for a long time afterwards. In the mean time it is playing handball with your liver. Not to say I don't use the solvents on my hands. Just a warning and suggestion that limiting exposure is probably a good idea.Along those lines I have found, entirely by accident, that Udder Cream rubbed into the hands and allowed to dry leaves a coating that allows paint, caulks and, for the most part, PLPremium and poly foams, to be washed off with soap and water. A lot handier than wearing gloves. The coating wears off so a dose immediately before you mess with he sticky stuff seems to work best.Also leaves the hands very soft and smooth. Good stuff to keep around because PVC cement, wet concrete and treated wood seem to wear on the hands. And the ladies don't like the guys with 60 grit hands.

        1. DANL | Apr 13, 2005 03:10pm | #18

          Thanks for the tip about Udder Cream (is it Udder Butter--I've heard of that?). I found that if I get oil-based paint or dirty motor oil on my hands, the best thing to get it off is vegitable oil.

          For fiberglass I found that the suggestion I got here or from FHB magazine (I think) to rub talcum powder on hands and arms first really helps to keep the fibers from sticking to/in the skin.

          Ed: Oh, after working with concrete--and I always seem to use my hands as much as the trowel, I wash my hands in venegar. Seems to neutralize the base of the concrete residue and really helps hands feel better.

          Edited 4/13/2005 8:19 am ET by Danno

          1. csnow | Apr 13, 2005 09:13pm | #21

            Talc is a carcinogen too, though fiberglass was recently delisted.

        2. bigbob2 | Apr 13, 2005 07:46pm | #19

          I am sitting here with dried PL Premium on my fingers from Sunday wondering:  how much of this stuff soaks into the skin?  I was under pressure to attach some wood casing to a basement window and used the PL PRemium to do so.  I forgot to grab a rag and and... well, I used my finger. (dum s***).  anyway, I can't imagine that acetone could be worse than having the stuff dry on your fingers???  Could it?

          1. DANL | Apr 13, 2005 08:49pm | #20

            Probably cleaning with acetone or nail polish remover is fine, though one poster here said denatured alcohol actually works better (and is probably better for your skin). Th PL will also wear off, in a month or so!

            Edited 4/13/2005 1:53 pm ET by Danno

  4. CombatRescue | Apr 13, 2005 02:18am | #6

    I use a lot of PL Premium and Gorilla.  I've found these http://www.homaxproducts.com/catalog/oopsswipes.html work really well to clean up my hands (before curing, of course) and minor mistakes.  Also works great on PL Poly Siding and Door caulk.

     

  5. DougU | Apr 13, 2005 01:31pm | #15

    Bill

    I watched that show with Tommy gluing those miters.

    He was using the manufacturers product. I have put some of that trim up before and used the manufacturers suggested product.

    I think its similar to PL but I wouldn't know if it was the same or not. It does seam to be a bit thinner. wipes off easier. Ever try to wipe PL off, it leaves a trail. This product doesn't seam to do that as much and it cleans up a bit easier.

    Doug

  6. andybuildz | Apr 13, 2005 02:47pm | #16

    I have a box of a fifty rubber cheap gloves and I use them.

    Thats the smartist route to go.

    If I  do however get thhe PL on my finger tips I use DW40 to get it off right away cause I have about fifty cans of that too....lol

    Be well

    a...

    The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!

    When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means..

      I honor the place in you where the entire universe resides,

    I honor the place in you of love, of light, of truth, of peace.

    I honor the place within you where if you are in that place in you

    and I am in that place in me, there is only one of us.

     

     


     

     

    1. Piffin | Apr 14, 2005 12:16am | #22

      I use DW40 to get it off right awayso she's forty years old now hunh? 

       

      Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Vintage Sash Windows Get an Energy-Efficient Upgrade

Low-e storm panels improve the energy efficiency of these old sash windows without changing their classic look.

Featured Video

Micro-Adjust Deck-Baluster Spacing for an Eye-Deceiving Layout

No math, no measuring—just a simple jig made from an elastic band is all you need to lay out a good-looking deck railing.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 690: Sharpening, Wires Behind Baseboard, and Fixing Shingle Panels
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Hand Tool Sharpening Tips
  • Old House Air-Sealing Basics
  • A Drip-Free, Through-Window Heat Pump

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Old House Journal – August 2025
    • Designing the Perfect Garden Gate
    • Old House Air-Sealing Basics
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data