As far as I know there are two commonly available type of polyurethane adhesvies.
One is the liquid “woodworkers” glue, best know from the Gorillia brand, but also available from Elmers and Franklin (Titebond).
The only is the thick “gunable” poly contruction adhesive, PL Premuin.
That is the only brand that I am familar with, don’t know if there are any other commonly available one.
There is also the hot melt poly system, but that is fairly specialized and I am sure many other industrial versions of poly adhesives.
But the woodworkers and construction version both cure by reaction to moisture and are know to stain fingers. The woodworkers type foams up when it cures, but the foam is easy to remove and I have never try to remove excess before it cures.
Whenever I have used PL Preminum I have just made sure that I don’t have any excess to squeeze out.
On This Old House Tommmy was asemblying some window cases out of PVC material and using “polyurethane adhesvise” on the joinst. No way of telling, but the cartridge did look like PL Premuim.
When he did the miter excess squeezed out and stuck a figer right on it to see if they where aligned before it shot it with some brads and applied a spring clamp.
The they mounted on the window with a large amount of adhesive between the end of the casing and the sill which squeezed out.
That was all they showed.
1) How did they clean the excess. I would thing that it would be too hard to do after it cures?
2) is there someother poly that is non-staining or should I look for Tommy’s purple finger on the next show?
Replies
PL Premium and the spray foam both clean right up with paint thinner if you get to it before they cure.
I've had pretty good success cleaning up both the adhesive and foam squeeze out with a sharp chisel or razor blade after they cure, provided I didn't smear them when they were still wet.
Every time I let that stuff set on my hands though its a solid 4 to 6 days before it finally wears off.
If we fail to catch a cosmic fish it may be a trillion years before the opportunity comes again
An interesting site on adhesives commenting on a sealant product.
http://www.on-hand.com/ADHFOCUSspring97.html
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Very interesting site.Focused on industrial applications. But I looked that some fo the PDF manual and again will based on inductial usages still be handle for some construction needs.Also looking at that site I realized that there also 3M and Sika poly marine "construction" adhesives.And I found a number of "sealants" both the one part moisture cure and multiple parts, at least one indicated that they are non-staining.But sealants main application is sealing and not strenght.
On the subject of strength I did a search of an old post I made way back when.
Thing sticks in my mind 'cause it seemed so unusual.
Thought it might be of an additional interest now that the subject is bought up...
20003.1
A 4x8 sheet of a cement backing board covered with a mortar compound used to embed the covering of white quartz marble chips screwed into brick back sometime in 60s or 70s. One heavy dog.
This 4x8 sheet was caulked to an adjoining piece of the same to cover the seam. Owner wants the brick exposed so take off the sheet.
I finally remove the last screw and am expecting the sheet to drop the 2inches it is above the sidewalk. Nothing happens. Ah, a hidden screw. Where is it?
I pry the side of the 4x8 to see where the connection is and the thing pulls from the brick. What?
The rubber based caulk is still pliable and the whole 4x8 sheet swings open like a door on a hinge. I try to move it up and down. No movement.
Open it all the way flush to the wall to try to crack the seam. Nothing. I get the ladder and with the sheet perpendicular to the wall I apply about half my weight to the top corner before she starts to give. Never seen such a thing.
Sure wish I knew what caulk those guys used.
sobriety is the root cause of dementia.
I had to take an old door and frame out of a garage once and had to cut the caulk with a untility knife--no way could I pull it loose. Once I got a strip of caulk loose though, I could just pull on it and use the knife occasionally--like skinning a deer. I think it was butyl caulk.
Acetone when still uncured is how I clean the fingers etc.
PL premium will still expand while curing, but not nearly as much as Gorilla. The liquid ones have more expander in the mix. The cans of spray foam are still the same product, curing by moisture, but they have yet more expander still...
It's all a mix a solids, solvents, poly, and expanding agents, and in some case3s - propellants.
so my speculation for the show would be that they waited 'till it cured, and used a good sharp utility knife to clean the excess, or ignored it, and just didn't ever show the crappy side of their work.
His fingers? He probably has a spray can of some solvent. Electric parts cleaner or carb cleaner, maybe brake cleaner...
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No these where on the front of the casing where they would clearly show.And the miters might be cleaned up with an edge after they cure, but not easily. But the casing hits the sill it would be very hard to clean up. Lot of work and too much possiblility of digging in which would in turn require more work.Must have have cleaned it up with solvent before it set.
Don't mean to yap at you, but...Just FYI, I was more or less washing my hands in acetone one day when I worked in the lab at a refinery. The boss saw me and pitched a fit--"Don't you know it's a known carcinogen?" and he never wanted to see me put it on my skin again, etc.. I don't know that it's that nasty, but, better safe than sorry and try to keep the glue off hands in first palce (yeah, like that's gonna happen) or clean it off with something less nasty (whatever that may be). Edit: On the other hand, no pun intended, nail polish remover has acetone in it, so how bad can it be? (although DW keeps telling me how much tougher women are than men!).
(Boss probably wouldn't have liked my washing the dye off my hands using the gasoline coming out of the lead house. Even I realized how stupid that was as soon as I did it and never did it again. But my bones sure show up on x-rays! (Just kidding.).)
Edited 4/12/2005 7:35 pm ET by Danno
I've reasoned the same thing thru about hte acetone/nail polish. I don't dip and pour it all over my hands. I tip the can to wet the corner of a rag, and use the rag to scrub up. Since it dries the skin, I then use some WD$) to put the oil back in.Carcinogens are all around us and the petro chemicals are amoung the leaders, but amount of exposure has a lot to do with it too. If I bathed in acetione daily, I would buy pretty good cancer policies, but for a dab now and then, Im not losing any sleeep over it. Gasoline fumes are also carcinogens, and I don't plan to quit filling up my vehicles yet. Same with wood dust. It was put on the list last year...
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Good points about many things being carcinogens--I heard once that some gov't agency was going to require warning signs on golf course sand traps due to possible silicosis! If you were a professional golfer, maybe, but then those guys generally avoid the bunkers.
I think that Acetone is one of those things that is carcinogen in California. But safe in the other 49 states and DC. <G>.But I acetone dries my hands too much to use much of it.Thanks for the painter wipes. I will get some of them.
Denatured alcohol is what we use to clean-up the uncured glue. Sorry, I've tried thinner and acetone and they just don't work that well.
The alcohol is what you want, especially for cleaning it off of your fingers.
I'll try that. The only trouble with bathing in the alcohol is that someone might mistake your condition for a 'disease'
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Acetone, and a lot of other solvents, or so I'm told by a chemist, soaks into the skin and remains at easily detectable levels for a long time afterwards. In the mean time it is playing handball with your liver. Not to say I don't use the solvents on my hands. Just a warning and suggestion that limiting exposure is probably a good idea.Along those lines I have found, entirely by accident, that Udder Cream rubbed into the hands and allowed to dry leaves a coating that allows paint, caulks and, for the most part, PLPremium and poly foams, to be washed off with soap and water. A lot handier than wearing gloves. The coating wears off so a dose immediately before you mess with he sticky stuff seems to work best.Also leaves the hands very soft and smooth. Good stuff to keep around because PVC cement, wet concrete and treated wood seem to wear on the hands. And the ladies don't like the guys with 60 grit hands.
Thanks for the tip about Udder Cream (is it Udder Butter--I've heard of that?). I found that if I get oil-based paint or dirty motor oil on my hands, the best thing to get it off is vegitable oil.
For fiberglass I found that the suggestion I got here or from FHB magazine (I think) to rub talcum powder on hands and arms first really helps to keep the fibers from sticking to/in the skin.
Ed: Oh, after working with concrete--and I always seem to use my hands as much as the trowel, I wash my hands in venegar. Seems to neutralize the base of the concrete residue and really helps hands feel better.
Edited 4/13/2005 8:19 am ET by Danno
Talc is a carcinogen too, though fiberglass was recently delisted.
I am sitting here with dried PL Premium on my fingers from Sunday wondering: how much of this stuff soaks into the skin? I was under pressure to attach some wood casing to a basement window and used the PL PRemium to do so. I forgot to grab a rag and and... well, I used my finger. (dum s***). anyway, I can't imagine that acetone could be worse than having the stuff dry on your fingers??? Could it?
Probably cleaning with acetone or nail polish remover is fine, though one poster here said denatured alcohol actually works better (and is probably better for your skin). Th PL will also wear off, in a month or so!
Edited 4/13/2005 1:53 pm ET by Danno
I use a lot of PL Premium and Gorilla. I've found these http://www.homaxproducts.com/catalog/oopsswipes.html work really well to clean up my hands (before curing, of course) and minor mistakes. Also works great on PL Poly Siding and Door caulk.
Bill
I watched that show with Tommy gluing those miters.
He was using the manufacturers product. I have put some of that trim up before and used the manufacturers suggested product.
I think its similar to PL but I wouldn't know if it was the same or not. It does seam to be a bit thinner. wipes off easier. Ever try to wipe PL off, it leaves a trail. This product doesn't seam to do that as much and it cleans up a bit easier.
Doug
I have a box of a fifty rubber cheap gloves and I use them.
Thats the smartist route to go.
If I do however get thhe PL on my finger tips I use DW40 to get it off right away cause I have about fifty cans of that too....lol
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a...
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I use DW40 to get it off right awayso she's forty years old now hunh?
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