FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Polyurethane enamel problems

Danno | Posted in General Discussion on September 13, 2005 05:16am

I painted four steel entry doors today. What a fiasco! First tried a small foam roller and every lap mark showed. So I tried brushing it and it didn’t level out–can see every lap and every brush mark. Looks baaad! Its semi-gloss and owner thought maybe that was the problem. I said it shouldn’t matter–sure gloss is a little less forgiving, but this looked like crap. The paint wouldn’t flow and seemed to be drying so fast that laps showed and would not blend. Owner was talking about getting the doors sprayed and I he could take them off and bring them to an autobody paint shop. (I think he would be shocked at what it would cost though.) I don’t own a sprayer.

I figured this would be a two hour job–was expecting water based acrylic, not oil based enamel, and enamel can be tricky, but this looks like it was done by someone who never held a brush in his hands before!

Anyway, we are meeting at a paint store tomorrow to ask their advice. This is humiliating! (Also helped that he stood beside me the whole time offering advice and help.) I used fine steel wool before painting and wiped it off with some “painters’ wipes” that are pop-up paper towels with cleaner, sort of like “Handi-wipes” and then rinsed their residue off with a sponge and clear water and dried it with paper towels. He pointed out spots I’d missed with the paper towels. (I let it air dry after the paper towels to make absolutely sure there was no moisture before painting, so it wouldn’t have mattered if i hadn’t seen those spots anyway.)

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. FastEddie | Sep 13, 2005 05:47am | #1

    Was the paint thick?  A little bit of penetrol would help it to flow out and smooth nicely.  And what kind of bruch were you using?  it takes a little different touch with the brush too ... you can't apply it like latex.

     

     

    "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

    1. Danno | Sep 13, 2005 01:52pm | #4

      The paint was pretty thick. Part of the problem was I wanted to get the darn doors done so they could close up the house for the night and so brushed over what I had rolled and didn't wait the 24 hours between coats. I thought I needed penetrol, but they live way out in the country and the paint would have been dry by the time I got some and came back. Not sure if penetrol will work with polyurethane enamel. When I go to the store this morning, I will ask them.

      Probably need a new brush too. I know the technique is just like varnishing with oil-based varnish--flow it on and tip it off, but this was like painting with honey--had to scrub it on to get it to "stick" (or it would leave little dots where the undercoat showed through), then the next spot wouldn't melt into the last spot. When I tipped off, you could see a divot  where I started and stopped my brush stroke. Maybe I jsut didn't use enough paint--he had a quart for four doors and I was almost empty after I second coated two of the doors.

      I had a heck of a time in the inside of this same owner's house when I painted with latex paint last winter. It was so dry in there, the paint was drying almost as I put it on. Didn't know about Flotrol then, but will use it in the future (although I used it on another later job and it didn't help).

  2. User avater
    coonass | Sep 13, 2005 05:48am | #2

    Danno,
    Sand them down, thin your paint, rag it on rag it off. Takes more coats to build the mils but you get a smoother finish.

    Or switch to an alkyd paint with penetrol.

    KK

    1. Danno | Sep 13, 2005 01:41pm | #3

      Yeah, figured I'd have to start by sanding them down. One door turned out well with the rolled on thin coat of paint, but the guy noticed a streak along a hinge and wants it redone. That one I may try rolling on another thin coat. I think I would have gotten by better by rolling on a second thin coat, (the garage door was also pretty good except for a couple too thin streaks) but he said he thought the problem was that I didn't use a brush but had used a roller. Since the customer is always right.... Next time I'll just tell him to do it himself since he's so adept. I get madder and madder the more I think about it.

      I can't stand it when the customer stands over my shoulder, "You missed a spot... There's another spot you missed...." Previously (I never learn) this guy's wife did that when I painted the insides of the doors with latex paint. I finally told her those spots were where the paint was already drying. "No," she insisted, "If you stand where I am you'll see that the paint is duller there and that you missed spots." I finally told her that after it all dried, if she wasn't satisfied, I'd do it again. When it all dried, it was fine. This time, however, when it dried it looked like crap.

      1. Danno | Sep 13, 2005 02:01pm | #5

        I thought I had it bad, but while I was painting, the guy I usually work with was rebuilding their redwood porch/deck (three L-shaped steps up a platform about 4'x6') that I wrote about here earlier. First it was full of bees that the owner said he had killed. Marc shot down 17 with spray and got stung once. Then the legs of the L's were different widths, making the miters real problems. Lastly, he had to taper some of the boards because the width of the steps varied a half inch over the short leg! The owner saw a tapered board and complained. Marc explained. Guy thought the previous builder was some pumpkins, but after a few explanations from Marc, said he remembered they let one guy go shortly after his job because he wasn't "working out".

        1. Danno | Sep 13, 2005 08:35pm | #6

          Well, the guy at the paint store said my problem was putting a second coat on before the first had dried. Said that's what made the paint hard to spread. Anyway, it's all still too rubbery to sand today, so after tomorrow's rain, I'll hope it's sry enough to sand and redo on Thirsday.

          All comes from hurrying to get the job done quickly for some very demanding customers. As another person pointed out here, that always creates problems.

          1. FastEddie | Sep 13, 2005 08:55pm | #7

            If that's what you did, then it might never dry.

            If you apply a second coat very early while the first coat is still fresh, then the two layers of paint meld together.  If you wait until the first coat is dry, then it has complet4ed giving off volatile compounds and has stabilized.  However, in between times, the first coat has skinned over but is still trying to outgas, and if you apply a fresh coat of paint, you interfere with that process.  The second coat traps some of the volatile stuff from the first coat, and it will stay gummy and soft for a long, long time.

              

            "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Podcast Episode 688: Obstructed Ridge Vent, Buying Fixer-Uppers, and Flashing Ledgers

Listeners write in about removing masonry chimneys and ask about blocked ridge vents, deal-breakers with fixer-uppers, and flashing ledgers that are spaced from the wall.

Featured Video

Micro-Adjust Deck-Baluster Spacing for an Eye-Deceiving Layout

No math, no measuring—just a simple jig made from an elastic band is all you need to lay out a good-looking deck railing.

Related Stories

  • Guest Suite With a Garden House
  • Podcast Episode 688: Obstructed Ridge Vent, Buying Fixer-Uppers, and Flashing Ledgers
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Finding the Right Fixer-Upper
  • Keeping It Cottage-Sized

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data