FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Pondering Diminishing Returns

KDESIGN | Posted in Energy, Heating & Insulation on May 18, 2012 07:44am

When it comes to the topic of energy efficiency, this matter of diminishing returns on insulation is problematic.  On one hand, it guarantees that there is a point where added insulation makes no sense at all.  And, furthermore, mathematics is capable of determining that point.  But the problem is that there are many factors that need to be measured in order to reach the mathematical conclusion.  And many of those factors can only be estimated.  So, the mathematical conclusion can only be an estimate.

Suppose you determine that six inches of closed cell foam is all you need.  Seven inches would be one inch too much.  And say you are basing this conclusion on a payback cycle of 50 years.  But what if you would be slightly more comfortable in the winter with 6-1/2” of foam than with 6”, even though the extra ½” would not pay in terms of money?  How much is 50 years of being slightly more comfortable worth?

What about the next person who owns the house after your 50-year payback cycle?  Perhaps the payback cycle should be the life of the house rather than an arbitrary number.  How do you predict the life of the house? 

What if your six inches of foam is slightly defective and performs like five inches?  What if it shrinks and loses R-value?  What if it does not cure properly and never achieves its proper R-value?

So, while the point of diminishing returns sounds like a no-brainer, it is impossible to apply it in a practical manner.  If you are building your dream house, and an exhaustive heat calc shows that the walls should have five inches of closed cell foam, will you install exactly five inches of foam?  Or will you fill the 5-1/2” cavity full because it is easier to control the thickness that way? 

Some have mentioned that the determination of the cutoff point for diminishing returns depends on the preference on the individual making the determination.  But if it is an individual preference, how can it be calculated mathematically? 

I would say that diminishing returns is generally an argument to limit insulation only as a way to limit cost, even though it is advanced as a pretext of being based on cost versus payback.  I would speculate that most of the time, the citation of diminishing returns is generally used to justify using less insulation than the amount that would be economically justified over time.   

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. DanH | May 18, 2012 09:41pm | #1

    What if ... you made a post and no one bothered to read it.

    1. KDESIGN | May 19, 2012 11:41am | #2

      Exceeding the 2 x 6 stud cavity

      I would say that the issue of diminishing returns comes into play most accutely when deciding whether or not to exceed the insulation cavity thickness of a 2 x 6 stud wall.  And secondarily, it comes into play when deciding whether to use solid rafters in a vaulted ceiling or to revert to scissors trusses. 

      But particularly with the 2 x 6 wall, the difficulty of exceeding that thickness needs a justification, and the conclusion that it does not pay back is often a large part of that justification.

      1. KDESIGN | May 20, 2012 10:49am | #6

        ((As a side note, I can never read the last post in this forum once more than a few posts are made.  To be able to see the last post, somebody has to add a post to make the last post the second-to-the-last post.))

        To the topic:  I am just making the observation that diminishing returns are most often cited (without comprehensive math) for the purpose of justifying less insulation than might be advantageous over time.

        This tends to correlate with the fact that, before the advent of spray foam, nearly everybody agreed that exceeding 5-1/2” of fiberglass did not pay back the investment. 

        1. calvin | May 20, 2012 05:27pm | #7

          I've thought this many times when reading your posts..........

          but this time I really truly have to ask.

          What the heck are you talking about?

          "((As a side note, I can never read the last post in this forum once more than a few posts are made. To be able to see the last post, somebody has to add a post to make the last post the second-to-the-last post.))"

          1. KDESIGN | May 20, 2012 06:26pm | #8

            Explanation

            calvin wrote:

            but this time I really truly have to ask.

            What the heck are you talking about?

            "((As a side note, I can never read the last post in this forum once more than a few posts are made. To be able to see the last post, somebody has to add a post to make the last post the second-to-the-last post.))"

            At the bottom of the forum page, there is a big list of Taunton magazine publications.  Just above that section is a block with a little notation on the lower right side that says “Ad choices.”   In the main part of the block, it is advertising a Free DYI Insulation Guide.  There is also this identity:  Jmhomoeowner.com/ProjectGuide.  That is an active link.

            After about 3-5 posts are made, the last post falls under that block of advertising.  I can’t get rid of the block, and I can’t drag the post out from under it.  Sometimes I can read the first sentence of that post that is covered by the block.  In any case, I cannot reply to that post because the reply and control buttons are all hidden under that block.  I can read and reply to any post above that last post. 

            If somebody else were to reply to the last post by Dick Russell, then that new post would be hidden and Dick Russell’s post would become visible so I could read it and reply to it.  There is one other wrinkle to this that I have not gotten a handle on.  Sometimes when I reply to a post in the middle of the page where the buttons and the post is visible, as soon as I enter anything into the text composition box, the control buttons for that post become hidden under that same ad box, thus making it impossible to post.  But that behavior does not seem consistent.  

            This began all of a sudden about 3-4 weeks ago. 

             I just noticed that while the phrase “Ad choices” does not act like an active link, if I right click on it and select “Open Link” it opens to something explaining that it is part of Google.  There is a lot of explanation about it.     

          2. florida | May 20, 2012 09:20pm | #9

            You should be using Firefox and Ad Block. I see no ads at all on these pages.

          3. DanH | May 21, 2012 12:10am | #10

            I rarely agree with Florida, but in this case I concur (sorta) -- Firefox and FlashBlock.

            The other option is to select "Newest first" for the sorting option.

      2. [email protected] | Jun 27, 2012 06:49pm | #16

        That all depends on energy costs

        Twenty years ago, when power was 2 or 3 cents/kwh, electric heating with R12 walls made perfect sense in the Pacific Northwest, or anywhere else using the Bonneville Power Administration grid. 

        With power at 6 to 10 cents/kwh, the whole equation has changed. 

        And, if you assume that the rates on the Bonneville grid are gong to get closer to what the rest of the nation pays as the inerconnection between the various power grids increases, it changes again. 

        Economic analysis of insualtion values, and time of return are pretty much guess work, because we don't really know what the future costs will be.   Last winter propane was at $3.25/gal, last week the manager at one fo the local propane vendors said the prices are the lowest he remembers, at $1.60/gal, and might go down. 

        1. User avater
          xxPaulCPxx | Jun 28, 2012 03:48pm | #17

          We got a notice in the mail a few months back casually mentioning one of our utility rates (either water or electric) is going up 25%.

  2. florida | May 19, 2012 01:23pm | #3

    All the math is really telling you is at what point the cost of installed insulation exceeds future energy savings. It's never going to be an absolute because we can't know future energy costs except to say that they will probably be higher. Once you've reached that magic point, in your example 6 inches, any more insulation is going to make such an insignificant change I doubt anyone could feel the difference. But that's why some people drive Kias and other people drive Cadillacs. They will both get you where you're going but the Caddy will get you there in comfort and style, but at a much higher upfront and future cost. .

  3. User avater
    xxPaulCPxx | May 19, 2012 04:44pm | #4

    I think the point is that the math shows you where you won't feel any more comfy with the extra inch.  Whether you can pay to get up to that flat part of the line is the only variable.

    Put it this way, if you can't feel the difference between 6" of foam, and 4' of foam - you aren't going to feel the difference between 6" of foam and 7" of foam either.

    1. DickRussell | May 19, 2012 06:48pm | #5

      Another point of view

      I prefer to think that if adding significantly to the R value of the insulation incurs a cost that really has you thinking about "diminishing returns" then perhaps you are using the wrong insulation.

      This subject almost always comes up in connection with spray foam insulation, and the usual response is always the same, that the argument about X inches is enough and saves "95% of the heat" is put forth by the spray foam vendors, who can't easily compete with dense packed cellulose or BIBS for a really good high R wall.

      1. KDESIGN | May 28, 2012 12:30pm | #11

        QUESTION:

        What is the cost comparison for a given R-value created by the following types on insulation?

        1)  Fiberglass batts of normal density

        2)  BIBS

        3)  Dense blown cellulous

        4)  Closed cell spray foam

        What is the cost per square foot for R-1 of each of these types of insulation?

  4. JasperTommy | Jun 19, 2012 01:54pm | #12

    If it's math you want

    Diminishing returns is just that, it really just turns into a cost benefit analysis after all regardless of R-values. How much do you value the comfort of proportional heat/cold distribution, the reduction of sound infiltration, sealed air benefits if you use certain products? If you can put your preferences into an equation F(h) of valuation, then map that over the cost for an extra inch of insulation you might have something, not a lot of people have their preferences figured out mathmatically though haha. Take the derivative of the valuation equation which derives the growth formula for your perceived hapiness for every inch of insulation you have. 

    F(h)  =  D(x)^2 + S(x) + A       <---- diminishing returns

    Where D is hapiness gained from reduced heat/cold distribtion for every inch (x), S is hapiness gained from reduced sound infiltration for every inch and A is the hapiness gained from reduced air flow for each inch (doesn't matter so not dependent on x). 

    F'(h) = 2D(x) + S

    There's your hapiness growth as valued by the amount of money it costs for x inches of insulation. 

    For the sake of keeping things easy, lets just say the cost for an inch of insulation for your house is $100

    C(x) = 100(x)      cost equation

    C'(x) = 100          growth of cost for each new inch of insulation

    Set the cost for an inch of insulation to equal the benefit growth and you have

    100 = 2D(x) + S

    Solve for x which would be the amount (in inches) of insulation you want as depending on your hapiness gained... Haven't flexed those muscles in a while haha. 

    1. User avater
      xxPaulCPxx | Jun 27, 2012 01:30pm | #15

      Hey, look at the post below OC boy!

      See how Rob added information disclosing his interests?  I doesn't make him less credible, it makes him more credible.

      You've written alot so far, but you don't have any credibility, other thn being known a an OC corporate shill.

  5. NRTRob | Jun 27, 2012 10:47am | #13

    diminishing returns is actually pretty simple.  I have an R25 wall here in maine, no thermal bridging, supertight.    In the winter, you cannot differentiate between the inside surface temp of that wall and my R60 ceiling with any accuracy... just nice, uniform temps.  comfort is off the table for the wall insulation at that point... windows and leakage are the factors left at that point.

    now, you could do AUST calculations if you really want to nail this down, but really, I think insulation has become pretty simply described in the following way:

    1.  You hit premium economy in most cases around R20-25 in a heating climate.

    2.  You can basically maximize your efficiency by R40-50, but you'll lose the economical test by a little, unless energy spikes or the cost of your insulation is very low.

    anything over that is vanity, you need huge amounts of insulation to make any difference, and the difference is very small. 

    this assumes equality of tightness, which is not true of all comparisons and is a part of the reason why fiberglass loses to foam or cellulose.  So this is really comparing all "tight" methods, and you have to take thermal bridging into account too, though that typically only shaves a few R off and so in MOST cases should not be a big factor in this comparison.

    and again it doesn't address windows, where every R means a lot more because you're starting with a small R to begin with.

    1. [email protected] | Jun 27, 2012 11:29am | #14

      And it is easily scewed.

      Like a lot of things the end result of the calculation is infuenced greatly by the initial assumptions. 

      If you assume the comfortable temperature is 76, or 66.  If you assume the outside mean temp is ten degrees hotter or colder.  If you include the change in temperature loss a persistent 30 mile an hour wind makes.  If you assume energy costs will remain stable, or double, or triple. 

      All of those change the result. 

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Picture-Perfect Pergola

Built from locally sawn hemlock, this functional outdoor feature uses structural screws and metal connectors for fast, sturdy construction.

Featured Video

Builder’s Advocate: An Interview With Viewrail

Learn more about affordable, modern floating stairs, from design to manufacturing to installation.

Related Stories

  • Design and Build a Pergola
  • Podcast Episode 689: Basement Garages, Compact ERVs, and Safer Paint Stripper
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Are Single-Room ERVs the Answer?
  • Fire-Resistant Landscaping and Home Design Details

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data