Hi all,
Attached is a photo of a poorly placed switchbox in my house. As you can see, it’s inside a built-in bookcase which makes it a pain to use. This is in a 100 year-old house, but the interior was gutted and new wiring was put in about 2 years ago (the whole house was rewired). Then the bookcase was added when the interior was rebuilt. The previous owner gave me some pictures she took of the gutted walls and it’s clear there wasn’t enough room to place the box closer to the opening due to a large number of closely-placed studs.
The issue of this switchbox came to a head as my heavily pregnant wife was trying to turn on the lights one night, so now this a my high-priority fix item. The thing is, I don’t know of any solution other than possibly a surface mount box closer to the door. Even if we remove the bookcase, the switch is still 20″ from the door.
Any and all suggestions would be duly considered, but re-framing the bearing wall that the switch is in isn’t one of them.
Thanks in advance!
Andy
Replies
What was it that your PG wife objected to?? The switches in the bookcase or the distance from the opening?? Both??
Since reframing and moving the 4-gang box is not an option, then the distance will have to be endured.
I would rebuild the book case, with the side wall to the left of the switches. The space between shelves appears excessive, given the height of the books, so, changing those aspects would gain an additional shelf while keeping the linear inches of shelf space, reduce the unusable dead space above the books and provide an unobstructed path to the switches.
Look up x10 technology.
My roommate did this to our last apartment for research on a school project.
I'll tell you what I remember but it won't be complete.
You will need a receiver to control everything. It plugs into a wall outlet and has an antenna.
You'll need to replace the switches in the wall box with their switches which have transmitters and receivers in them.
You can buy wall mount switches which is essentially a remote control it will have 4 switches per plate. It is the size of a normal single switch plate cover, mounts to the wall with double stick tape. It is not very obtrusive or noticeable at all.
It's really quite simple with a little research.
Edited 10/12/2003 4:36:08 PM ET by CAG
Did a little looking, Seems my idea would only control 3/4 of the switches, if that would work take a look below, if not.. there are other ways X10 would work but here is the simplest.
are any of those switches 3 way, or just two way?
If they are all 2 way you will need 3 of these
http://www.x10.com/automation/x10_ws467.htm ~36 bucks
If they are 3 way switches you need these.
http://www.x10.com/automation/x10_ws4777.htm
This is the switch plate that mounts on the wall.
http://www.x10.com/automation/x10_ss13a.htm ~20
and to control it all
http://www.x10.com/automation/x10_tm751.htm ~15 bucks.
Less then a hundred bucks and a few hours at most.
You can really go all out with stuff though if you wanted too.
Similar to prior suggestion, you could simply build out a flush box approximately the size of the four gang (right over where the 4 gang is now), and leave the rest of the bookcase as is. A little moulding to dress it up, and it would look like it was 'born there'.
X10 solution is not bad, though I'm not in love with the battery operated ones, and it can be a challenge to overcome X10 reliability issues. I have had to invest a lot of effort to get reliable X10 in my home...
Another solution might be to 'soft' wire a very shallow box with low voltage switches running to relays to switch the high voltage. This approach is getting more common for lighting controls in general.
Oh, one more:
If you could fit a standard 2 gang in that wall, you could simply fit 4 standard 'stacked' type switches instead of the decoras. Actually, I even saw a single-gang decora switch somewhere that could switch 4 devices..
I've mounted a 4 gang box in the side of a bookcase just like yours. The HO was a decorarator and painted a fake book on the "chase" inside the bookcase. It looked pretty cool. EliphIno!
Thanks for all the suggestions. Here's the scoop on the switches. 2 are three-way (one controls lights, the other 2 ceiling fans), one controls a light and the last controls a switched outlet.
Looking at the framing picture again, it looks like I can fit a double-box in there, so perhaps I could stack two of those? Not sure if that would violate code. Or I could move the two most used switches over and leave the other two. Another alternative might be to fir out a false wall around the door to hold the box.
I'm reluctant to move the shelving because there is another built-in that mirrors it on the other side of the door opening.
Thanks again to everyone for your replies!
Andy
Motion detector switch for the lights?
No need to stack. You can easily put 4 switches in 2 boxes. You can just use 'twin switches'.
Decora style rocker:
http://icarus.smoothcorp.com/cornerhardware/173572.211x401.jpeg
Decora toggle:
http://icarus.smoothcorp.com/cornerhardware/173496.203x394.jpeg
Standard 'Recepticle' toggle:
http://icarus.smoothcorp.com/cornerhardware/140699.299x299.jpeg
Or you can use a single box, and go the 'indirect' route.
http://cache.smarthome.com/images/4207wrmain.jpg
Edited 10/17/2003 11:46:04 AM ET by csnow
Thanks! Those are good options!
Andy
Any chance we could get a look at that framing photo?Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
Try this. I had to take a picture of a picture of a picture. One note on the scale - The 2x studs, etc are actually 2" wide (they're old heart pine - very dense!).
Thanks!
I think you just need some of these:
http://www.cornells.com/asseentv/clapper.htm
Hee, Hee.
Funny you should mention that. I'm in the process of converting all my electric and electronic appliances to use "clapper technology." Note that this should be confused with technology designed to get rid of the clap.
:)
Andy
the x-10 control relays probably won't all fit inside the 4 gang box, so i don't think that will work very well.
what about moving the switches to the side of the bookcase, you will need to create a cavity/enclosed area matching the style of the book case to cover the side and back of the newly added gang inside the shelf area of the book case, and extend the wires to this new box, then if the bookcase is ever removed you could put it back the way it currently is. just another option,
Strong words indicate a weak argument
could you just turn the switch box on its side so that the switches move left to right, you could then put the whole gang box in a very small area.
james