I’ve got a run of rigid dryer duct work with three elbows, and I’m having trouble keeping it together. I figure sheet metal screws are a really bad idea, as the lint will collect on them.
But what about pop rivets? I imagine some lint will still collect, but maybe not much.
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Replies
I have never tried it, but I think that should be OK.
But I have used the aluminum TRUE duct tape.
Not the misnamed stuff that is actually duck tape.
Edited 10/4/2006 10:56 am by BillHartmann
I've got some aluminum tape on it right now, trying to see how that works. I really need some support for the duct, as this is a stacked unit. I think the vibration knocks it apart, and my tenent never notices. You know how dancers are!
I used metal tape on our install at home 3 years ago. The connection recently eased apart because the elbow had a light film of oil that I hadn't noticed. Seemed tight when installed...I noticed that the pipe had a quarter-inch of lint inside, and decided to screw it together so I could take it apart and clean it once in a while...Brooks
mechanical fasteners can really catch the lint.. big time..
some locales do not allow them...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I know. But I couldn't figure out how to hold sections together, especially the bend connected to the dryer itself. It just always wants to fall off the tapered, oily sleeve coming out of the dryer itself. and the heat seems to cook dry the adhesive on aluminum tape.So I finally went with 1/4" screws & keep my fingers crossed...I'm open to better ideas - I don't like my approach, either!Brooks
I clean with alcohol and use reinforced metal duct tape...
there is Hi tempd seam tape available..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
A band clamp on the outside where the connector is attached to the dryer will do. No fasteners protruding into the duct, includes rivets.
All the dryers I've worked with have had a tapered output pipe. Ducting, even clamped, seems to just walk off the output pipe.Usually I've just put on a 90-degree, and wedged the dryer against a wall so the elbow is held in place by the wall. At our home (where I have the problem!) the dryer sits in front of an unused doorway (its such a long story!), the metal flex-pipe comes out to the side, and there's nothing to hold the elbow to the dryer.So I put in a single 1/4" #8 screw and keep my fingers crossed! It does give me an incentive to pull the ducting apart once a year and clean things up...Brooks
A single 1/4" sm screw will be of no consequence, in my estimation. Checking/cleaning the vent duct from time to time is always a good idea, regardless of the installatiion.
How often do you clean your duct. If your answer is "more than ever", you're above average. You have to build for the dumbest person on the planet, no matter what you're doing. CYA dont use screws or rivets.
the metal flex-pipe comes out to the side
1. I believe flex pipe is considered to be a step down also in quality, even if metal. Most recommend smooth walled interior pipe.
2. Most dryers can vent out either side, back, and even the bottom if better access dictates.
nylon reinforced metal tape...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I use nothing but aluminum tape. Nothing to catch lint on the inside.
Mike
The way I undderstand it, NO. Nothing protruding into the duct that lint can catch on. Use metal tape. Its the kind the has a backer you need to peel off. This stuff holds very well.
Regular Duct Tape will eventually dry out and fail but te metal tape wont.
Whatever you do, I would join it in some way that you can take it apart periodically for cleaning. I use screws in the troublesome spots, and regular duct tape between the sections. The duct tape gives out after a year or so -- which is about how often you ought to take it apart for cleaning anyway.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
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Don't know if duct mastic will work for you or not. A little bit inside the joint and coat the outside, when the stuff dries it's pretty rigid. Wrap with aluminum tape for good measure.
I used it around my dryer elbow at the wall and it doesn't move, like one solid piece.
IMERC has a good point about local code restrictions.
My vent run has about 4 self tapping sheet metal screws in it (I didn't install). When I inspect for lint build up, there has been lint on the points, but it has been minor enough that I wouldn't worry about it. As long as you check the vent periodically, it should be fine.