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Popcorn Ceiling Removal

jimsdotter | Posted in General Discussion on June 23, 2006 10:28am

I just purchased a 1959 condo in San Diego with popcorn ceilings that may or may not contain asbestos.  The ceilings do have radiant heat coils.  What is the best & safest way to remove the popcorn?

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  1. wrudiger | Jun 23, 2006 11:14pm | #1

    Skin it with 3/8" sheetrock.

    1. User avater
      MarkH | Jun 23, 2006 11:43pm | #2

      I'd remove the popcorn and skim coat it.  I'd be afraid of damaging the heating circuits with new drywall, plus it will lower the efficiency of the heat even more.

      1. wrudiger | Jun 24, 2006 12:53am | #9

        I hadn't thought about damaging the elements.  I've never seen in-ceiling heating so don't know how it's done - I was guessing that there was a good risk of damaging it by scraping off the popcorn, but it sounds like that's not the case.  It did occur to me that the heading efficiency would be reduced.  I just know how nasty the stuff can be to remove - of course ours has two coats of paint...

        1. User avater
          MarkH | Jun 24, 2006 01:12am | #11

          I don't know much about it, but there are fine wires embedded in it.  Chances are you wont hit them, but murphy sez...

      2. User avater
        james | Jun 24, 2006 01:24am | #12

        there is a good chance that DW was hung, then the resistance heating mat was installed, then the accoustic ceiling material was sprayed on to cover ( hide ) the heating mat.

         

        in this case you will defenatly damage the mat in removal ( well maybe not but it is highly likely) ... I would just dc the element and remove it all ( in what ever manner makes sense to you)... then either install a new form  of heat or another new resistance mat bedded in joint compound.

         

        just stirring the pot

         

        james

  2. CAGIV | Jun 23, 2006 11:47pm | #3

    First I'd have it tested for asbetos, if it has little "sparkles" in it, there is a good chance it does.  I do not know the reasoning behind that, just what I've been told.

    If you plan to remove it and it has not been painted it's not that bad.  Messy to be sure, but not terribly hard.  I use a garden sprayer to wet it down and then a 6" or so plastic puddy knife.  Skim coat it smooth after that and you're good to go.  If it's been painted it's harder to remove.

     

    Team Logo

    1. hammer | Jun 24, 2006 12:03am | #4

      "if it has little "sparkles" in it, there is a good chance it does.  I do not know the reasoning behind that, just what I've been told."

      I think the sparkles are a good chance it was done in the 70's

    2. FastEddie | Jun 24, 2006 12:06am | #5

      What's a puddy knife?  Is that a Kansas thing? 

      "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

      1. CAGIV | Jun 24, 2006 12:19am | #6

        eat me tex

        1. User avater
          dieselpig | Jun 24, 2006 12:25am | #7

          LOL...View Image

  3. User avater
    xxPaulCPxx | Jun 24, 2006 12:38am | #8

    If you go about removing it yourself, here is a good piece of gear for you to have:

    North 7600 series full face respirator, with HEPA (asbestos proof) filters
    http://www.discountsafetygear.com/noducasifufa.html

    Not only will this keep any errand bad fibers from getting into your lungs, but the high visibility lens is perfect for working overhead - and the full face seal keeps things from bouncing into your eyes.  It is very expensive ($120 to $200) but is also extremly comfortable to wear - it is full silicone with lots of adjustment.  I use this mask instead of paper dust masks it's so comfy to wear.

    You can also pick up some stuff called "encapsulant", which keeps the dangerous fibers from getting airborn.  You can get the Foster 32-22 Protektor for $45.40 from this place in San Diego:
    http://www.airgas.com/browse/product_list.aspx?catID=467&Keyword=protektor

    Clear the room out so it is just floor, walls, and ceiling.  Cover the walls and floor with plastic and tape it shut so there is no air flow out, or put a box fan in the window to suck air outside.  Spray this stuff on the walls and floor to capture any chunks that get scattered.  Spray some into a pan that you will scrape the ceiling into .  Wet the ceiling, then spray the encapsulant onto it as well.  Scrape, but be carefull so you don't ding up the drywall paper too bad (it can be patched with a setting drywall mud if you don't just reskin).  Throw everything away when done... except the mask of course!

    Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

    Also a CRX fanatic!

  4. JohnSprung | Jun 24, 2006 12:54am | #10

    People worry way too much about asbestos.  They treat it like it was plutonium.  Tarp the place well, get the popcorn good and wet so no fibers get airborne, and scrape away.  If  you want to go with a mask, military surplus gas masks work far better and for a lot less money than the asbestos removal ones.  The point is, just don't get the fibers in your lungs. 

     

     

    -- J.S.

     

  5. User avater
    Sphere | Jun 24, 2006 01:31am | #13

    Butter, salt and a Home Theater system.

    Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

    There is no cure for stupid. R. White.

  6. migraine | Jun 24, 2006 05:28am | #14

    The way some of those were done was that the button board/B board(sort of a pre curser to dry wall) were nailed to the studs and the "heating wires" were nailed to that.  Then the plaster was floated over the wires and button board.  The "Pop Corn" texture was sprayed over that.  Once the popcorn texture is removed the wire pattern will show thru the plaster.  This is why the ceiling will need to be refloated prior to being textured. 

    If you aren't using the heating system(not a energy efficient heating sysytem), remove the pop corn and have someone float out the plaster ceiling with either a smooth or texture finish.   

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